Another newbie seeking construction advice

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Let me also add that I don't feel skimming is just for the obvious leaves and debris that fall into the pond. Skimming pulls all the tiny particles of dust and silt and whatnot that settles on the surface of the pond, keeping it sparkling clean. If you have outdoor furniture, you know the stuff I'm talking about - the stuff that becomes very apparent when you have that a few rain sprinkles that doesn't wash the dirt off, but just makes everything look like it needs a good wipe down.
 
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Let me also add that I don't feel skimming is just for the obvious leaves and debris that fall into the pond. Skimming pulls all the tiny particles of dust and silt and whatnot that settles on the surface of the pond, keeping it sparkling clean. If you have outdoor furniture, you know the stuff I'm talking about - the stuff that becomes very apparent when you have that a few rain sprinkles that doesn't wash the dirt off, but just makes everything look like it needs a good wipe down.
I agree completely! But, then again, I live in the middle of the woods & if I didn't have some sort of mechanical skimming action my pond would look like a giant mud puddle in short order. Dust, dirt, debris, plant material, etc... (then the HUGE amount of leaves from October - December) need to be skimmed off. And I still end up doing a lot of manual scooping & debris removal seasonally - mostly Spring & Fall when the trees are dropping 'stuff' the most. Netting over my pond really isn't an option with the shape/size & layout, so I rely on manual removal (me & the skimmers) for forest debris.
 
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That's right, and the field behind the fence needs to be mowed by me a few times each spring and summer, and that drops a layer of dust everywhere. Also, the California fires which seem to becoming a regular annual occurrence produce a significant amount of ash.

I'm concerned about dead spots in flow at the two hard turns. You may have noticed the first turn has a really wide first ledge (I had read that it's important for aesthetics that all the ledges be shaped differently). My plan was to have some water plants on those ledges. Do you think the plants will further trap leaves and other debris there?

I'm resistant to the jets recommended by @GBBUDD because I'm trying to keep it simple, and also don't understand the mechanics of it, but maybe I should look to add them to the plan.
 
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Skimmers, negative edge, etc. I think are a personal decision. Personally I have no need for them, although the idea of a negative edge always intrigued me.
I have a lot of trees and just scoop with a net when needed. I erect my nylon pond net for the fall and leave it up until spring.
That's my procedure...everyone is different. Whatever works for you...
 

addy1

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I have just a waterfall at one end and a skimmer at the other end. Don't really need the skimmer now since my huge maple died and no more spinners coming down. I leave it running since it adds a bit more circulation.

My entire bog wall weeps water back into the pond which also adds a lot of circulation.

This is a winter shot of my pond. I started with just the big one and the stream then added 4 more to it. The only pump for the big pond and the other 4 is to the right. I do have a small clear water pump that sends water up the hill 100 foot head pressure, then it goes into ponds and the stream back to the big pond. Follow the arrows it shows the flow. The green circle is the bog, the entire wall weeps a bit of water over it. Most comes out the waterfall area.

The purple arrows to the left are small ponds that are fed via a garden hose (the long red line) and they flow back into the big pond.

The black arrow to the left is the skimmer.
waterflow.JPG
 
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Check out then new power jet that aquascape just put out. It’s really just a pump that you can drop anywhere in the bottom, move around at will, etc. Easier I think than installing jets.
 
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TRAP yup but like i drew earlier put a circulator pump at those point . IT JUST A SMALL PUMP PUSHING WATER in the direction that you want. opps i forgot to hit post ..... yup thats the ones thanks @Lisak1 . Though i have no issue making holes and sealing so theres no leaks i have come up with a couple ideas on how to do return jets or or even main drains and skimmers without cutting or puncturing the rubber. even a skimmer could be installed not compromising the rubber. Before you set the rubber determin where the skimmer or main drain will be. cut a trench in the soil and once you installed the rubber push it into these trenches and run the pipe to the surface the pipe is inside the rubber and run it up and over the edge of the pond . And at that point you just have to hide the plumbing as it comes up over the edge . could be a little tricky but there's no puncture. Then you only have to hide the pipe and make sure the pipe doesnt push the edge down creating a leak
 
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Hey all. Sorry that I've been MIA for a few weeks. I've had to focus on other things and the weather has limited my opportunities to work on this project. Still wanted to give a quick update today.

IMG_20210122_115624457.jpg


First, I've done some more digging. The deepest part of the pond is almost 3'. I'll probably try to get it to about 3.5'. The stream part will only be about 12-18", but I need to widen it more for that to work.

IMG_20210126_082238115_HDR.jpg


I decided to have my fence moved out about 6'. This will provide me with space for a wider bog. Wish I had thought of that before I put the fence in - it's not a pleasant feeling paying a contactor to move a fence that I just had them build.

So the news today is that after about 24 consecutive hours of rain, the pond is completely full.

IMG_20210128_115542108.jpg

IMG_20210128_115545455.jpg

IMG_20210128_115556585.jpg

IMG_20210128_115601704.jpg

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Here are my thoughts/observations/questions on this:

1. I'm surprised it filled so quickly. The buckets nearby haven't fully filled, so most of it is has to be from runoff.

2. I think my clay is the extreme opposite of porous. Does this mean I need to be extra careful that water doesn't get under my liner? Will a simple small levee-like mound along the perimeter take care of that?

3. Clearly this rain has provided a valuable service to me. The water level is breaching at the end of the stream while it's barely at my top shelf on the end by the waterfall. So it looks like I'll need to build up the sides next to the stream - at least six inches. I hope I can make that look natural. Any tips?

4. I'm worried about my ledges that are now submerged. Hope the clay holds!
 
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Does this mean I need to be extra careful that water doesn't get under my liner?
I would almost insist if it was my pond to put in a under liner drain . something like this is highly recommended
l1j89m.gif
annd with your shape i would put two or three in. https://www.underwaterwarehouse.com/pond-liner-and-sealants/liner-air-vents/

Every pond should have an overflow and now you know where to put it my over flow dumps into a flat area watering a little bog the bog is a depression where the water sits and holds water while it waits for the next rain so its wet and dry between some bogs must have that swing.

you used all your soils to build up the water fall with your lot so flat and holding water you are going to need a berm / sides built up all around the pond . Look it it this way with that shape your are going to have a lot of left over and not used liner. unless you plan on seaming. Its not all that hard but to plan on a seam for a shape like yours would be unusual. and when you start rocking in the pond even if it's just the edges your design is going to close up quick on you . I'd think about the bridge off to the left side where it is also narrow and widen the pond where the bridge is but that's just me

Your shelves look great as they appear to be the perfect depth for reasonably sized rocks

Your ahead of me i still don't have a fence around the pond . im just finishing the expansions after three years and have a net and temp fence
 
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addy1

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The water level is breaching at the end of the stream while it's barely at my top shelf on the end by the waterfall. So it looks like I'll need to build up the sides next to the stream - at least six inches. I hope I can make that look natural. Any tips?
If you add height, make it a spread out height, by the time you add plants rocks etc, it will look fine. I had to have a berm on the upper slope edge of my pond since rain water ran down the hill beautifully. It only took about 2 inches of height to make a difference.
I would go out side with every rain storm track the run off, then pick any area that showed water was running into the pond and fix it.
 
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We were talking about levels on another thread... you discovered the one that works every single time! Better to know now than before you have it all rocked and ready to fill and then realize it's not level.

I won't question whether you need an under liner drain - that's another thing you wouldn't want to figure out later would have been a good idea - but I will tell you we built our pond in solid clay and don't have a drain and have never had a problem with water under the liner.
 
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l1j89m.gif

We were talking about levels on another thread... you discovered the one that works every single time! Better to know now than before you have it all rocked and ready to fill and then realize it's not level.

I won't question whether you need an under liner drain - that's another thing you wouldn't want to figure out later would have been a good idea - but I will tell you we built our pond in solid clay and don't have a drain and have never had a problem with water under the liner.
THATS AMAZING @Lisak1 , I HAVE SEEN YOUR ENTIRE AREA UNDER WATER, might be the fact that you rocked your pond that you have been spared the hippoooooo
 
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Any pipe can do the trick you want path of least resistance. its a open pipe or its lift the liner mother nature is not picky but she is a byatch at times
 

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