An alternative, better, approach to a bog. Anoxic Filtration.

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Greetings to all from the England,

I have been an avid reader of Dr Novaks posts on KKU for a while and i'm also most alarmed that the whole thread has gone missing, just to put you in the picture as i see it.

1, the forum is under constant attack by spammers, the whole site is spammed on a daily basis.
2. Dave the koi (super moderator and site caretaker) seems to be a little overwhelmed with this work load. (please refrain from the name calling)
3. Dave collins seems to be the only other moderator helping Davethekoi.
4. the forum is owned by a guy called Carl and it seems he's hard to get a hold of, once this happens i hope the whole thread can be resurrected.


Dear Dr Novak, it's a shame to type to you for the first time under these strained times, however i'm in with this Anoxic filtering, i have been a fishkeeper for some time, let me tell you, nothing has fired up my entusiasm to go do something as much as the knowledge you graciously share with the world and i thank you for that.


My plans are for a start up next year, i already have a few components and shall keep adding to this as and when, for now though most of my time is been applied to pre filtration tecniques and the best direction to go.

Question........ i'm working on installing 16 12" biocenosis baskets inside an IBC with an upward flow, one thing i'm a little unsure about is during the spring and autumn cleaning of the Anoxic filter, is it important to keep the baskets submerged, my worry is, the ingress of new water when it's re-filled, would this draining and re-filling have a detremental affect on the faculative bacteria?

They say "every cloud has a silver linning" and in this case my silver linning is finding this forum, i would class myself as a fishkeeper not just a carp fan, i look forward to reading more of this most interesting site later.

Best fishes to all.

Daz :)



Don’t worry, I‘ve had a few complaints about what happened on KKU… as everyone wants it to go back to the way it was. I have all the info that I wrote on KKU in my archives and everything I say here is also documented, too. However, I won’t spend all that time resubmitting the articles until I’m guaranteed that such a mishap wouldn’t happen again or that all info is backed up on another server. It will take me hours to get KKU up to speed again on the Anoxic Filtration System, can anyone tell me why I’m doing this for free again?

I had a tech tell me that they receive 6,000,000 emails a month but only 200,000 of those are legit and the rest is all spam, and everything else that comes in to ruin a system. I guess you really don’t think about how much work a forum is to run; we just take it as a piece of cake to run.

I see that some think I’m a little long winded … me long winded, NO WAY! They better get used to that because not everyone comprehends information at the same speed. I once had a student ask me if I could repeat what I just said a little faster so that way no one in class could comprehend it! I’m not just talking to highly skilled hobbyist but also newbie’s on this or any other forum that deserve some respect. At one time in our lives we all started out as newbie’s.
 
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Dr. Novak, I understand your time is limited through the day so I hope this post is not too cumbersome to answer while not holding you back from answering others.

I do see you are a windy guy, but it's a good type of windy that helps to produce a bit of educational energy. ;)

Thank ya Dr. Novak for your well written honesty. You will find many many bog owners and static submerged bio-filters owners here in this forum and they're good folk. Everyone on here are really good folk. This forum never gets heated like it does on koiphen.com and I think this is a big credit to the better community here on the Garden Pond Forum.

If times allows, then direct answers to questions will definitely be appreciated. I understand your time constraints so I honestly do appreciate the effort you take here.


I will assume your questions are rhetorical and, which leads me to say, you are correct Waterbug.

Dr. Novak's response in the better koiphen thread that, I hyperlinked, stating, "In each basket, small amounts of oxygen have actually been tested and shown to usually stay slightly above 1.5-.5mg/l. The ability to retain some oxygen appears to keep the majority of the bed in an 'anoxic” state.'

My read on this is that I suppose the ions attract the carbon dioxide and other possible oxygen molecules to utilize for the process.


Now this has me bugged since I it does not make much sense.

Dr. Novak, can you elaborate in answering to Waterbug's statement above?


Focused on "properly diffused inlet water". Dr. Novak, what does this mean?

I have a 110 gallon whiskey barrel cut in half where I put a bog in each half. I am digging out these whiskey barrels to create your anoxic filtration system. Due to the tight quarters, the bottom of the barrels appear to be the best placement of the diffusor. What would your advice be in this scenario?


I have read the exact same experience with properly built, 55 gal or bigger, moving bed filters. Any thoughts?


Your usage of "conventional filter" has me bugged. You use this phrase several times. Dr. Novak, can you expand on what this means? Are you referring to the moving bed bio-filters or the shower tower type bio-filters?

I completely agree with you in saying that "all filters work…they do perform a purpose that is sometimes compromised by the hobbyists or other unforeseen insults that weren’t added into the equation when setting the filter up. Each filter that we use has its limits and the hobbyist easily reaches those limits."

Slamming the "other guys", that is your competitors, as "conventional". This comes across as an unneccesary low blow and, Dr. Novak, this is one of the many reasons why my skepticism raises an eyebrow against your system when reading the testimonials that you have chosen to present.




I do not sell filters so I have no competitors at all, and yes they are called "conventiona" because thay are the same old same old for money, money is first then the hobbyiste is next.





However, the only reason we have the technology today is due to our ability to etch circuitry using the least amount of cubic inches due to the physics of the matter. I think this is the point, that is doing more with less space, of moving bed and shower tower bio-filters.

Sure, Dr. Novak, your anoxic filtration rendition allows for easy disguising when compared to these other "conventional" bio-filters since these other filters do not allow plants to be interfaced directly with the filter. So, hedges or other landscaping is used to hide the "conventional" filters.


Extremely interesting.

I enjoy reading a type of very detail oriented publications.

Dr. Novak, can you provide any references to help me better understand these processes, that is the biological electrical charges, you are talking about ?? Can you provide any references to Dr. Franco's publications ??
 

crsublette

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Don’t worry, I‘ve had a few complaints about what happened on KKU… as everyone wants it to go back to the way it was. I have all the info that I wrote on KKU in my archives and everything I say here is also documented, too. However, I won’t spend all that time resubmitting the articles until I’m guaranteed that such a mishap wouldn’t happen again or that all info is backed up on another server. It will take me hours to get KKU up to speed again on the Anoxic Filtration System, can anyone tell me why I’m doing this for free again?
Cause you're a good guy. Awesome you've saved it. I hope you do find comfort to upload the infomation again.

I see that some think I’m a little long winded … me long winded, NO WAY! They better get used to that because not everyone comprehends information at the same speed. I once had a student ask me if I could repeat what I just said a little faster so that way no one in class could comprehend it! I’m not just talking to highly skilled hobbyist but also newbie’s on this or any other forum that deserve some respect. At one time in our lives we all started out as newbie’s.
I agree !! I find myself to be quite a rambler as well in an effort to help out the new guys to make them more comfortable and to prevent eyes from glazing over.

Dr. Novak, if you have any problems posting, give Becky a contact. She's good people.

Becky and her little helper keeps this place running in tip top shape, and I hope they can fend off any unwarranted business that may come when talking about anoxic filtration. After reading Dave's post, sounds like a nefarious black guard group is trying to go around to redact your infomation.

Welcome Dr. Novak and new comers to the forum!! :goldfish: :razz: :goldfish: I frequent at least 4 other forums as well and it is fun to read the stories of new people. Think about submitting a thread introducing your self in the community introduction forums. Folk here can give a very good welcoming yahoo!! :highfive:


Dr. Novak, i'll try to refrain myself so you can do some catch up. Thanks again!! :)


Except one last question then i'll stop... Would your biocenosis baskets benefit a garden extremely well when used in an aquaponic system ??
 
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As a novice ponder and MAYBE a bit above that in gardening ( there is so much to learn) :D You do it because you love to watch things grow. Because you love to help people and watch Them grow!
Unfortunately there are people out there that Love to undo, wether it was intentional or not, the hard work of others just because they can :( Rest assured that I for one am grateful for anything you have to teach me and everyone here on this great forum :) And this is a great forum; always active, always informative and fun, because the people here care deeply about the hobby and care enough to pass on their knowledge to others; without judgment and without boastfulness of have a "better system" or "better pond".
Again, thank you for your time and patients ;) and there is nothing wrong with long-windedness Lol
 
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Lets get on the same page please!

Conventional filters:

When I use the word “conventional “ filtration systems that means a filter and/or filters that basically rely on high-oxygenated water, the higher the impregnation of the water with oxygen the more bacteria you will have if surface and the availability of foodstuff is present. These filters must keep oxygen levels high on their substrates in order to work their most efficient. As oxygen levels drop these bacteria decrees in numbers and/or die altogether, leaving the hobbyist with no nitrogen cycle. These bacteria falls under chemoautrophic, that is, they do not require an organic source of food.

Heterotrophic – The most common type of bacteria that consumes complex hydrocarbons (organic waste) and produce very toxic ammonia.

Nitrosomonas – Bacteria, which consumes ammonia as their sole energy source and produces toxic nitrite. Actually Nitrosomonas spp., Nitrosospira spp., and Nitrospira spp. converts toxic ammonia and/or ammonium to nitrites.

Nitrobacter – Bacteria, which consumes nitrite and produces relatively harmless, in small quantity that is, nitrates.

The bottom two bacteria’s, they are the ones conventional filters are most dependent on and have very slow reproductive rates compared to most Heterotrophic bacteria, generally 24 to 36 hours to double under ideal conditions. Any serious oxygen deprivation can quickly allow for the growth of anaerobic bacteria. They also will not survive in anoxic conditions.

Nonconventional filters: Not your status quo in filtration.

Anoxic Filtration System differs from conventional filtration system because it uses not only the above bacteria but is less dependent on such. It uses what natural system use. Facultative Anaerobic Heterotrophs – These are a dimorphic bacterium, capable of converting ammonia into nitrites and then nitrates and in turn, turn it into a gas element, Dinitrogen, N2, a harmless nitrogen gas that is then released into the atmosphere. Facultative anaerobes use nitrates as a thermal electron acceptor. They use denitrification because nitrates, like oxygen, have a low reduction potential. Also denitrifying bacteria will use ferric iron (Fe3+) “ a trace element found in Laterite, and some organic electron acceptors. Their oxygen requirements are extremely low (2-ppm-.5-ppm) and therefore they live in Anoxic conditions. Unlike oxygen loving heterotrophic bacteria1, that consumes hydrocarbons and in turn produces ammonia. They also have the ability to steal their oxygen requirement from other sources when oxygen is depleted; this is what makes them dimorphic because they can now live in anaerobic conditions, too.

So when I say conventional filters, don’t think I’m badmouthing these filters, I’m not. However, only the Anoxic Filter is design to live through power outages and cold weather. These bacteria are present everywhere and reproduce at astonishing rates, with trillions of cells in just 24 hours.


Vegetative Filtration Systems - as it’s called is another one that falls into this category. One of the significant advantage of vegetative filtration over other methods of filtration is its managing nitrogen waste in our ponds, is the fact that it removes offending substances from the water, instead of just breaking down ammonia to nitrite to nitrates, which are still undesirable compounds. In other words, the chemolithotrophic bacteria are bypassed completely in a vegetative filter. The three major elements to consider in using a vegetative filtration systems in our ornamental ponds are: A: You need to match the ammonia assimilation capacity of the mass of plants to the ammonia production capacity of the fish load. B: You have to ensure that the ammonia absorbing structures of the plants (the roots and root hairs) have unregulated access through the water body proper. C: You have to regulate a constant flow of ammonia-laden pond water over the root structures some way.

By matching the ammonia assimilation capacity of a vegetative filtration system to the fish load, you would need 3.2-kilograms (7 lbs.) of emergent plants to every 12-inch (304.8mm) Koi that you have in your pond. By estimating the present fish load and, keeping in mind that pond fish grow very rapidly, estimate the likely load in a few years not by the size the fish are at present. This means that if you had 10, 12-inch (304.8mm) Koi, you would need over 70-pounds (31.74k) of emergent plants to start with. More than likely, you would want to be at least double this estimate; 140-pounds (63.5k) of emergent plants would be more in the realm of reality. Now all these plants have to have a medium and/or substrate of some kind. This is where it seems everybody parts ways on what type of medium and/or substrate to use for their plants in a vegetative filtration system. So many different mediums and/or substrates are recommended for this kind of filter that I will not go into listing all of them here. You will find everything from gravel to clay, topsoil, to special potting mixes sold at nurseries and everything else in-between. It seems that everyone has a superior anecdotal way to plant up the plants than the next person does.


I just wanted everyone to get on the same page as me, thank you.
 
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Cause you're a good guy. Awesome you've saved it. I hope you do find comfort to upload the infomation again.


I agree !! I find myself to be quite a rambler as well in an effort to help out the new guys to make them more comfortable and to prevent eyes from glazing over.

Dr. Novak, if you have any problems posting, give Becky a contact. She's good people.

Becky and her little helper keeps this place running in tip top shape, and I hope they can fend off any unwarranted business that may come when talking about anoxic filtration. After reading Dave's post, sounds like a nefarious black guard group is trying to go around to redact your infomation.

Welcome Dr. Novak and new comers to the forum!! :goldfish: :razz: :goldfish: I frequent at least 4 other forums as well and it is fun to read the stories of new people. Think about submitting a thread introducing your self in the community introduction forums. Folk here can give a very good welcoming yahoo!! :highfive:


Dr. Novak, i'll try to refrain myself so you can do some catch up. Thanks again!! :)


Except one last question then i'll stop... Would your biocenosis baskets benefit a garden extremely well when used in an aquaponic system ??


Some of the kindness people in the world I’ve never met are Dave and Syd in the UK, and I live in the USA. What compels an idiot like me to keep going on, my Wife. She screams and yells at me wouldn’t let me live in the house any longer if I didn’t. Okay, now everyone can snicker now! Yea! Like you’re the boss of your domain. :moped: Vespa... I love it,too!
 
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Except one last question then i'll stop... Would your biocenosis baskets benefit a garden extremely well when used in an aquaponic system ?? A big yes on that one.




Now I have to go back in see what is asked of me in this forum plus my emails are getting too big in numbers now, and I’m so exhausted. And thank you everyone for the welcome. :LOL:
 
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I'm still reading the PDF files, but I have not come across an answer to the proper ratio of Laterite to Kitty Litter.

Dr. Novak, what would you recommend to be the proper ratio of X ounces of Laterite to Z ounces of Kitty Litter ??


(( side note : Dr. Novak, I do have my skepticism of this system regardless of all the many testimonials noted in your PDF files. If this system is the "diamond" it is made out to be, then I wonder why it took me this long to find out about it. Heh, only reason I came across this was when I came across the term "anoxic", didn't understand, so I began researching the term, which eventually brought me here.

1/2 cup to each biocenosis basket. One 55 oz bag of Laterite will do about six baskets.
 
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If you need to choose one, then I would appreciate an answer to the below question more than any others I have offered.



I have already emptied my barrels and waiting for my order of Laterite to arrive. I am just concerned about placement of the diffusor since I am working with such a tight space. I was thinking of placing the diffusor at the bottom, below the shelves of biocenosus baskets.


Diffusing water : You just don’t want an outlet pipe going into the filter and blowing everything around in the filter. So one example is in my Cd-book on line (I posted the link already) is with a pipe drilled full of holes then place the pipe in laundry bad filled with Bio-Balls and place that inside a milk crates. Then another way is to have a 2” outlet or whatever your using, pipe going to the filter then inside the filter you make the pipe 4” diameter with holes drilled all around it and a bottom cap on the pipe. Now the incoming water is forced through all the smaller holes instead of one big hole. Simple, yet effective. The diffuser is place vertically in the filter not horizontally under the baskets that would blow mulm and detritus all around.
 
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Say I build the filter in the next week, will it have time to cycle before I shut down for the winter? It's my understanding the Anoxic system takes longer to cycle than the conventional bio, is this correct? If so, when I start the new system up, in late winter early spring, will it be ready? Or will I have problems until it gets established?



The pump I have now is a 2400 gph waterfall pump, are you saying I need a bigger one?


Your pump of 2400- gph is good, but you now have the option of adding more gph in the future if you like. Unlike, let say a Nexus that is governed by 3600- gph and no more.
 
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Excerpt from my book on electrical charge: Someone asked?

It could be said that the diversity of clay materials type used and size of the substrate grains or their depth, the microbial population will be in equilibrium with its supply of foodstuffs. However, this is somewhat misleading, because in a closed system it is the overall efficiency of the baskets themselves, in relationship to the systems incoming foodstuffs that really counts. The Nitrogen pathways react differently to elevated or very low levels of nitrate in the entire mass of pond water. If the microbial mediators are in equilibrium, they respond respectably to either of those conditions. Yet, excesses will occur for an unambiguous reason! There may be a lack or balance of useful microbial mediators. Short-circuiting of the balancing act, example, excess oxygen inhibiting denitrification or the inverse relationship between that of oxygen and concentration in the overlying water and the overall rate of denitrification when the water is rich in nitrates is another possibility.

How all this applies to the biocenosis clarification baskets would depend upon the volume and compensation of incoming nutrients and the health, condition, and type of substrate. In baskets having more anoxic than anaerobic volume area, where a greater volume of more efficient microbes exist would be able to respond very quickly to an excessive nutrient flux in the pond water mass. In addition, their existence and capability does not encompass guesswork that would accompany other types of the denitrification processes.

The Anoxic Filtration System does have a remarkable difference from that of other filtration systems, because of the value of the electrical charge that accompanies matter in the depth of its substrate. This charge is measured in millivolts (mV). Even though the mechanism and pathways associated with Kitty litter mixed with Laterite are quite involved, it could generally be said that the baskets themselves are basically a chemical sink where the diffusion of nutrients through them are influenced by electrical charge. Moreover, those positive charges are attracted to negative charges. Accordingly, the water’s surface and the air above are a negative mV. In the bulk water of the pond there are many charged molecules. Much of it is positive mV. So are most of the living biomass, example the fish, gastropods, and plants. The substrate surfaces (all seven2 sides of the baskets) are largely a negative mV. The Kitty litter itself with the Laterite is negative with increasing magnitude with depth. The deeper the Kitty litter and Laterite, the more negative it becomes and the more positive charged nutrients are naturally attracted to lower depths. In each basket, small amounts of oxygen have been tested and shown to usually stay slightly above .5mg/l. The ability to retain some oxygen appears to keep the majority of the bed in an anoxic” condition. You must also remember that obligated anaerobic heterotrophs, will die if exposed to oxygen. Dissimilatory denitrification occurs in zones having a small amount of oxygen. One of the beneficial things about these particular bacteria is they are capable of living in areas containing little or no dissolved oxygen (in other words they are dimorphic in nature). They are enormously more efficient than the microbes living in the anaerobic zones!

When an energy source like glucose is arbitrarily added, they have and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) yield of approximately 34 times that of obligated anaerobic heterotrophs. The difference in energy unit yield of ATP corresponds to how much faster and more efficiently, nutrients are reduced to energy. That’s a great value here if the majority of the baskets can be kept in an anoxic state excessive bulk water nitrate levels can potentially be controlled because microbes actively strive to stay in equilibrium with the available foodstuff. If the majority of the basket is anaerobic, ammonium is the denitrification end product, not nitrogen gas. Therefore, another nitrogen, compound of more significance is resulting! In natural systems, the anoxic layer is often quite substantial, ranging from several inches to a foot or more. Yes, it would be fair to say from the studies conducted that when and anoxic system is created. The depth of its anoxic zone is extended and insured. The potential is now greater for increasing in astronomical terms the number facultative anaerobic heterotrophs.

Many hobbyists say that: “It is impossible to have oxygen in the baskets because the substrate will compact, and therefore will inhibit any biological process to take place.” However, they forget about the substrate permeability1 qualities, and the large part it plays in the microbial and chemical processes. The permeability of Kitty litter and Laterite allow oxygenated pond water with inorganic compounds to pass through the substrate on a current-carrying magnetic field, which then allows the substrate to stay more aerobic. Such substrate has two characteristics that enable fluids to move through it: (1) porosity and (2) permeability. Porosity is the presence of small openings, or pores. Permeability means that some of the pores are connected by spaces through which fluids can move. Nonetheless, actual tests of the baskets have confirmed the existence of oxygen at low levels for bacterium to exists and exists it does. Yet, in all honesty, how it gets there is still somewhat of an unknown to scientist. Yet, I will try to explain the best I can for the hobbyist.

Oxygen penetration is less and less with depth. It decreases for two reasons: microbial metabolism and subsequent biogeochemical processes. Diffusion is a very effective process over short distances; however, it has its limitations.



Yet, the presence of oxygen in the biocenosis clarification baskets suggests that oxygen does diffuse as far as the center of each basket. Concomitantly, biogeochemical processes may produce or retain some oxygen.

Differential pressure existing across gradients. Ion displacement (differential pressure) exists when there is a relationship with carbon dioxide removal. If there is a substrate producing some carbon dioxide, it then becomes a factor in creating anoxic condition. The addition of anion producer such as microbial or aggregate or both needs to produce enough oxygen to engage or attract the carbon dioxide and that will then move the cations, releasing the oxygen and consequently going more aerobic. The point being made here is that it is that oxygen is present in the substrate of each basket and it is clearly not there only because of diffusion alone.

Carbon availability for autotrophs, such as cyanobacterium, or those bacteria that utilize light and carbon dioxide to carry out their biological processes and can quickly use an abundance of inorganic carbon. Heterotrophs are mostly responsible for breaking down organic matter and thrive in areas where diffusion abounds and where organic carbon is well cycled. It is also a fact that mediating biochemical transformations (protein and/or enzymes) and genetic controls (DNA/ RNA) show a common reliance on specific ratios of carbon (DOC), nitrogen (DON), and phosphorus (DOP). It could then be said organic carbon is a major player in how well inorganic nutrients, example, nitrogen and phosphorus, are used. In addition, there appears to be a specific ratio needed, which is thought to be approximately 36-parts Carbon, 6-parts nitrogen, and 1-part phosphorus, sometimes referred to as the Redfield Ratio.

Evidence suggests that when heterotrophic bacteria are limited by both organic carbon and mineral nutrients, they have a negative affect their trophic neighbors in the microbial food network. In other words, if they suffer, it appears to negatively affect neighboring processes. Nevertheless, nitrogen is generally the primary limiting nutrient in our ponds because it controls the rate of primary production. If the system is supplied with high levels of “nitrogen,” then algal blooms will generally occur.

Whether organic carbon is cycled or stored, it appears to be a matter that relates to how the baskets substrate supplies heterotrophic and autotrophs their essential foodstuffs. However, it has been shown that when only an organic carbon source is added, autotrophs are out competed by heterotrophs for inorganic nutrients, demonstrating a need for the corresponding nitrogen. If inorganic nutrients are only added, autotrophs will increase, such as cyanobacteria. Therefore, the ratio between carbon and nitrogen and that of phosphorus are very important factors when facilitating population densities of either bacterium. One thing is evident, that the basket substrate along with where diffusion is the most critical player, are very efficient at cycling organic carbon to balance the ratio of available constituents.

Another thing that pond hobbyists worry about: is that of phosphates. Actually, most phosphates in our ponds are due to food fed and the quality of tap water used for evaporation makeup or water changes. However, it has been said anaerobic areas, were obligate anaerobic heterotrophs live, accumulate phosphates. As a matter fact, the anaerobic area with its lower pH and redox is an efficient user of the oxygen electrons tied to the phosphorus element; therefore, phosphate is quickly reduced to other phosphorus molecules and ions.

Therefore, phosphate accumulation anywhere where it is not attacked for its oxygen, suggesting that in more aerobic and anoxic bed areas there would be greater accumulation since oxygen is readily available. However, that is also not accurate! In those areas, it is mostly bound to calcium and manganese (a trace element in Laterite) where it is quite stable because it is very easy to maintain its “charge” balance. Therefore, phosphates are usually not available for uptake in substrates unless associated with reducing conditions.

I believe that a nearly complete recycling can be achieved in a pond equipped with biocenosis clarification baskets. The fact remains that grain size and depth of such, play a major role in the class of bacteria that inhabit the biochemical pathways of the substrate of each basket. Nevertheless, when the right percentages of each are present, the substrate world has a very positive effect on the overall pond water mass and will therefore make it suitable for aquatic animals!

1: Permeability – per·me·a·bil·i·ty
1. The property or state of being permeable.
2. Also called Magnetic permeability. Electricity: A measure of the change in magnetic induction produced when a magnet material replaces air, expressed as a coefficient or a set of coefficients that multiply the components of magnetic intensity to give the components of magnetic induction.
3. Geology: The capability of a porous rock or sediment to permit the flow of fluids through its pore spaces.
4. Aeronautics: The rate at which gas is lost through the envelope of an aerostat, usually expressed as the number of liters thus diffused in one day through a square meter.
5. Nautical: The capacity of a space in a vessel to absorb water measured with reference to its temporary or permanent contents and expressed as a percentage of the total volume of the space.
6. The property or condition of being permeable.
7. The rate of flow of a liquid or gas through a porous material.
8. The property of something that can be pervaded by a liquid (as by osmosis or diffusion) (ant: impermeability)
1. The ability of a substance to allow another substance to pass through it, especially the ability of a porous rock, sediment, or soil to transmit fluid through pores and cracks. Geologic permeability is usually measured in millidarcies.
2. Magnetic permeability.
If you were wondering how does one obtain seven sides on a six sided basket?
1. Topside
2. Front side
3. Bottom side
4. Right side
5. Left side
6. Posterior side/Back side
7. Inside/interior
Even a circle, no matter how thick it is, has four sides to it, unless it has no existents at all.
 
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The photos that I’m showing here are of my homemade pre-filter before the Anoxic Filter. I now have 10 Koi from 13”@ 3 to 22” long and all are only fed once a day ½ cup of food a day and in the summer they will eat double that amount. The pond is completely covered like a Quonset hut with 6-mil plastic so no airborne pollutants can get in; like dirt or any foliage from trees and so on.

As the photos show this is an extremely dirty pre-filter and this is only after one weeks worth of feeding and Koi waste. Basically the pre-filter is nothing more than an under gravel filter in a small box and instead of using gravel I use Matala high-density blue filter media with 2500-gph going through it. My 3600-gph pumps impeller broke last year and this is my emergency pump online now.

What is my point? The point being is that if you were allowed to let all the organic waste stay in solution, and think your biological filter would take care of it without ever cleaning it…Do you think your system wouldn’t collapse sooner or latter? Do you think it wouldn’t affect Redox? Do you think biological and chemical pathways would stay open to chemical mediators with this much or more incoming insults to your system? My fish capacity to filter is very light; in fact this is the smallest it’s been in over twenty years now. Koi produce lots of Ammonia and waste and for this much waste to breakdown into mulm would take months of biological activity to do so. During the meantime your oxygen demand for heterotrophs and chemoautotrophic bacteria could supersede that of your animals’ needs , it does happen.

Here is something to think about, the Anoxic Filter doesn’t place a burden on the available oxygen in the water body proper. Yes, the water that goes into the Anoxic filter with oxygen laden water comes out the same way. It’s actually has been proven that if oxygen is at 7.8 ppm then it will come out of the Anoxic Filter at 7.8 ppm, too.

Bog filters and Veggie filters in nature do not steel oxygen for biological activities but make oxygen. The Anoxic Filter does not steal oxygenated laden water from your animals even when water temperatures reach over 85F degrees like it did this summer in the Midwestern and southern states. If you add plants then it will also make oxygen like nature does.
 

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Can an Anoxic system in a lab with only the organic matter found in tap water and added ammonia be enough for the heterotroph bacteria to reproduce to enough to strip oxygen from nitrate?
 
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Simple question for anyone, what type of basket are out using? I understand it needs to be ventilated, but not in a way to allow the clay kitty litter to easily leak out. Type, material, source of Supply would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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