The Good Banter Thread

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Sissy, call Goodyear customer service 1-800-goodyear, let them know you have dry rot. Maybe they can help sove your problem. Personally, the problem may be caused since the vehicle is not driven regularly. When tires remain stationary over long periods of time UV rays and heat can contribute to tire rot.
 
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I still cannot imagine that Goodyear would not have some type of warranty on their tires that are only 1.5 years old!!! Come on, really? Did you call and check with them? My guess is if you put Goodyear on again, that dealer would have HAD to give you rebate on the almost brand new tires. Geesh ... they use anything to get away with crap!
 

sissy

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I checked and it seems unless you buy the extra warranty you have nothing to go on .I was going to buy it but for some reason I didn't .I pay 60 dollar a year for road side assist so they pay 25 dollars on each tire since i have the partial replacement value on parts .I guess tires are parts . :cheerful: They just called and told me ,I did not know that was included ,better than nothing I guess .The 4th tire went flat on the flat bed so they will include that also .I think I got my money's worth from that company this year . :cheerful: Had them for 5 years and only ever had to call about my battery last year .Insurance company picks up the loner car since i was stranded .I told them I could call my son to pick me up but they said no this is why you pay for insurance .I have had them for 7 years now ,Same company I have for my house that replaced all the appliances last year and the well pump after the lightening knocked out every thing and even killed my whole house surge protector which also paid since it had a guarantee
 

HTH

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I would expect a cheap Chinese wheelbarrow tire to dry rot in 2 or 3 years. Not car tires!

The world is full of 40 year old tractor tires that are still holding air, now I would not drive them at highway speeds but still.

I have a pair orSears/Michelin tires that have maybe 200 miles and 15 years old. Should take a look at them.
 

HTH

Howard
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When I first started the shop swamp cooler this spring the electrical rotary switch did not want to turn. It has worked since them if a bit hard to turn.

Yesterday both my wife and I visited the dentist. At midnight I realized the swamp cooler in the shop was still running. The baby fish are over there and I did not want them cooled at night. The wife was still up and about so she went over to turn it off. This morning the knob stripped out as I turned it and when I put a vice grip to the shaft the shaft twisted off.

Now I know the switch was on its last legs. Would it be OK had I gotten out of bed to go turn it off? Why did it have to pick the day of our dental visits to die?

Picked up a replacement switch at the plumbing shop. The diagram that came with the switch does not look anything like the switch.

All these are small things. BUT THEY BUG THE CRAP OUT OF ME

Had a dream last night. My sister wanted me to put the engine back in her car but there was some question in my mind as to why the engine was out and would it work if I put it in. Wanted it done yesterday. She live 1000+ miles away and is married to a mechanic.

Ohmmm Ohmmm Ohmmm
 
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Funny dream. HTH! I had a similar thing go on this evening (and yesterday evening) that is sooo frustrating to me! First I lost my new bolts I got for anchoring the windmill to the concrete pad I poured last Thurs. Then when I found them, located the hammer drill, thought the bit was the right size, so tried to use it. Well, it was the right size, just wrong type. So, had to remove it. Easy, right? No chuck was on the drill cord, have no idea what happened to it. So, went to Wal-Mart today to buy one. They don't have them. Went to Menards, sure they have one, it's a 4-way, 4 different sizes. I said I just need a metal one, large size. That's all they had. Got home, yep, I needed the largest size, but it kept trying to strip. Grr ... FINALLY got old one off, put new one on, but could not tighten it well enough. (Probably why I could not get the old one loosened!) Drill the first hole, the bit keeps slipping, not tight enough. And, finally figured out I needed it on the "hammer" sign, not the drill sign, for doing concrete drilling. Learning as I go. THEN, as if that was not enough, I got all 4 holes drilled, made sure they would line up with the legs of the windmill, hammered the anchor bolts in, not too hard, didn't want to mess up the threads (like the guy told me), 3 tightened down, tried to tighten the last one, and the threads are messed up! GRRRRRRR ...... that means I have to loosen the other 3, remove the tower, somehow get the last anchor out (it's the expandable kind, so probably is going to make a mess ... then what??? drill 4 new holes?!), and if it doesn't tear up the hole, get a new one to "tap" into it! If it makes the h0le a mess, then I'll figure out some other way to get it in there and tighten that last leg down. This is how I learn stuff, though. Sometimes I just think I need to do stuff like this more often to remember how it's done.
Tomorrow is a new day ....
 

HTH

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CE if you have to do 4 new bolts don't remove the old ones it will mess up the concrete. Just cut them off flush with an angle grinder. A 4" er should work.

I love the idea of a windmill but not so much the little purely decorative ones.
 
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I don't have a little grinder, but am hoping those last bolt can get tightened down if I have something to hold the bolt securely, like my needle nose pliars ... which I actually know where they are! LOL But, good idea about leaving the bolts in the concrete. I figured they would be VERY difficult to remove, probably tear out a huge hole, as they are not supposed to come out ... ever! They guy did tell me not to tighten the nuts too much to make the bolt turn (it is turning, darn it) and not to hit it so hard to damage the threads (that happened, too, although I didn't hit any of them very hard. And, the chuck I got at Menards is a 4 way, and it's going back. Geesh, it was like using plastic to open the drill. Stripping off the paint on the outside edge, and then the "metal" was stripping as well. How frustrating. I'll go to the REAL hardware store and get a good one. :blueflower:
 

HTH

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Another option is to chase the threads with a die. Or take a file and just remove the top few missed up turns.

You can protect the threads by putting a hardwood block between the hammer and the bolt.
Or just get on of these and screw it 3/4 on the pound all you like.

Long%20Nut%20(Coupling%20Nut)_20086410381876840.jpg
 

HARO

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CountryEscape said:
I don't have a little grinder, but am hoping those last bolt can get tightened down if I have something to hold the bolt securely, like my needle nose pliars ... which I actually know where they are! LOL But, good idea about leaving the bolts in the concrete. I figured they would be VERY difficult to remove, probably tear out a huge hole, as they are not supposed to come out ... ever! They guy did tell me not to tighten the nuts too much to make the bolt turn (it is turning, darn it) and not to hit it so hard to damage the threads (that happened, too, although I didn't hit any of them very hard. And, the chuck I got at Menards is a 4 way, and it's going back. Geesh, it was like using plastic to open the drill. Stripping off the paint on the outside edge, and then the "metal" was stripping as well. How frustrating. I'll go to the REAL hardware store and get a good one. :blueflower:
I found out years ago..... with tools, you get what you pay for!
John
 

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