Pondless Waterfall Build Questions

[msr0459]

Nothing wrong with a tiny pond for the water to land it then make its way to the catch basin it absolutely is realistic if anything it's usually at the deepest at the falls then hits the shallow overflow

Whew!, lol... in your opinion, would it make sense to perhaps dig it deeper on the upper end, where the fall will mostly hit,..so it has to swell up more before finding its way downhill. That way the fall would have more time to slow down first, if that makes sense.

 

[msr0459]

I just hope your making the reservoir big enough so when power goes out you'd onto overflow the basin

I think so, I went well over the calculated "water in motion". I multiplied by 2.5 as the final gal., and went beyond that also.

 

[msr0459]

I'm still at it, but as usual, the rain's been seriously slowing me down. Since I could only dig the basin deep enough to barely accommodate the height of a matrixblox (due to very large rocks), I went back and formed the sides higher surrounding the basin. I'll then bring the liner up and over, and with rocks and/or dirt I'll have enough height above the matrixblox to hopefully prevent any excess water from overflowing.

I do have a question regarding cleaning the liner before seaming. I've read online a suggestion to use a product called "naphtha". I happened to have some on hand, and was wondering if anyone knows if that would work? Otherwise I'll need to purchase some isopropyl alcohol, or whatever else would do the best job.

Thanks

 

[GBBUDD]

Whew!, lol... in your opinion, would it make sense to perhaps dig it deeper on the upper end, where the fall will mostly hit,..so it has to swell up more before finding its way downhill. That way the fall would have more time to slow down first, if that makes sense.

YEAH YOUR TALKING WATER IN MOTION . by creating pools at each set of falls that will require far less of a reservoir at the bottom. because only the water that is actually falling is in need of collecting and storing.

I'm still at it, but as usual, the rain's been seriously slowing me down. Since I could only dig the basin deep enough to barely accommodate the height of a matrixblox (due to very large rocks), I went back and formed the sides higher surrounding the basin. I'll then bring the liner up and over, and with rocks and/or dirt I'll have enough height above the matrixblox to hopefully prevent any excess water from overflowing.

I do have a question regarding cleaning the liner before seaming. I've read online a suggestion to use a product called "naphtha". I happened to have some on hand, and was wondering if anyone knows if that would work? Otherwise I'll need to purchase some isopropyl alcohol, or whatever else would do the best job.

Thanks

While a clean surface is an absolute must. There are many liquids and cleaners that i have seen people swear by . From Water to alcohol and Gasoline. key iis a clean surface without any residue before you add your primer with a scotch brite as a cleaning sponge and second as an applicator rubbing the primer on the epdm

Seaming EPDM liner

Seaming is not difficult but it does require some foresight and thought. Hopefully this list will help you to create a seam that will last for many, many years, issue free. If you can seam your liners in a driveway or somewhere flat that is by far your best option. The method below is how I...

www.gardenpondforum.com

 

[msr0459]

While a clean surface is an absolute must. There are many liquids and cleaners that i have seen people swear by . From Water to alcohol and Gasoline. key iis a clean surface without any residue before you add your primer with a scotch brite as a cleaning sponge and second as an applicator rubbing the primer on the epdm

Yep, one article says to ONLY use naphtha on epdm, then another says to NEVER use anything petroleum based, which naphtha is. And you've used gasoline, so I guess for a one time, get it as clean as possible, it's not a big deal either way?

And I was sold a can of 14oz Ulta Bond Seam Prime when I purchased my seaming tapes. It's a spray on, reviews well, so no applicator necessary. Of course now I only see others using the Firestone primer with the scrubbing pad applicator, and am wondering if I've made yet another mistake using a spray on?

 

[GBBUDD]

a Member just built her pond and she used the spray on it's been a year haven't seen her come on screaming her seem failed.
With a new epdm i'd use water as there shouldn't be much to clean. if it's brown or white from soils then i would start looking at something stronger to clean it. Can't go wrong with firestone they make the stuff " epdm"

 

[Lisak1]

I was going to say the same- on a brand new liner you shouldn’t have more than a bit of dirt or dust to clean off. Water should be fine.

 

[msr0459]

Here's the area I have to work with for the seaming. Was just outside starting the cleaning process. New liner yes, but after a few weeks of rain, me walking up and down with rocks, and this notorious Carolina red dirt, it's not quite as easy as one would think. I'm having to scrub the daylights outta this stuff! Lol

Regarding the seaming process... the area just above the end of the liner is pinned down, so I'm not able to spread out the liner in one even 15' span. It looks as though I'll have to seam a couple of feet at a time, i.e., pull and smooth out both sections spanning 2' or so, apply the primer, dbl sided tape, then even out the next 2', repeat the process, etc. I realize this is FAR from an ideal way to seam, but, if I measure appropriately, such that each section to be seamed is the same measurement as the one preceding it, and as long as I make sure no wrinkles from section to section, will this work ok? I literally have no other choice, so any other advise on this is appreciated.

 

[GBBUDD]

One trick to note when doing so many feet at a ti.e at the end of your primed areas place plastic on it so that when you roll it out the last 2 inches will not set. This allows you to do the next setting and you know you have primed at the start and not your hoping the get primer under the fold and there ate no gaps

 

[msr0459]

One trick to note when doing so many feet at a ti.e at the end of your primed areas place plastic on it so that when you roll it out the last 2 inches will not set. This allows you to do the next setting and you know you have primed at the start and not your hoping the get primer under the fold and there ate no gaps

OK, thanks for that. Although I do have to ask, probably yet again overthinking things, but will the plastic not stick to the primer and create issues when removing for the next run?

 

[GBBUDD]

No the primer is a contact cement . You have not watched the videos or read the blog. YOU MUST APPLY THE PRIMER AND WAIT FOR IT TO DRY TO THE TOUCH. NOTHING WILL STICK TO IT WITHIN REASON. WHEN IT IS MET BY THE SEAM TAPE YOU GET ONE SHOT TO GET IT RIGHT IT STICKS ON CONTACT TO PRIMER OR SEAM TAPE. IT WILL NOT STICK TO.PLASTIC UNLESS IT TOO HAD PRIMER ON IT.

 

[msr0459]

No the primer is a contact cement . You have not watched the videos or read the blog. YOU MUST APPLY THE PRIMER AND WAIT FOR IT TO DRY TO THE TOUCH. NOTHING WILL STICK TO IT WITHIN REASON. WHEN IT IS MET BY THE SEAM TAPE YOU GET ONE SHOT TO GET IT RIGHT IT STICKS ON CONTACT TO PRIMER OR SEAM TAPE. IT WILL NOT STICK TO.PLASTIC UNLESS IT TOO HAD PRIMER ON IT.

Lol, I have indeed watched the videos, and multiple others on seaming. I will go back and watch again, just to be sure i didn't miss anything. Just haven't seen anyone do it in segments like I'm about to, so I'm overly cautious. Like you said, once primed I've got one chance to not screw it up !

 

[GBBUDD]

I suggest trying it on scrap if you have any. You clean , prime , let dry, roll up the seam tape if not pre primed, and as you roll it out leave the plastic on it once it is lined up the way you like it you pull out the plastic while smoothing it out as you go having anyone hold the roll while you work it helps tremendously

 

[msr0459]

No the primer is a contact cement . You have not watched the videos or read the blog. YOU MUST APPLY THE PRIMER AND WAIT FOR IT TO DRY TO THE TOUCH. NOTHING WILL STICK TO IT WITHIN REASON. WHEN IT IS MET BY THE SEAM TAPE YOU GET ONE SHOT TO GET IT RIGHT IT STICKS ON CONTACT TO PRIMER OR SEAM TAPE. IT WILL NOT STICK TO.PLASTIC UNLESS IT TOO HAD PRIMER ON IT.

Lol, I have indeed watched the videos, and multiple others on seaming. I will go back and watch again, just to be sure i didn't miss anything. Just haven't seen anyone do it in segments like I'm about to, so I'm overly cautious. Like you said, once primed I've got one chance to not screw it up !

I suggest trying it on scrap if you have any. You clean , prime , let dry, roll up the seam tape if not pre primed, and as you roll it out leave the plastic on it once it is lined up the way you like it you pull out the plastic while smoothing it out as you go having anyone hold the roll while you work it helps tremendously

Thanks for walking me through this. BTW, was searching for the caulk you recommended on your blog, but can't find "Genocil 4500", did you mean "Geocel 4500"?, that one I see readily available.

 

[msr0459]

No the primer is a contact cement . You have not watched the videos or read the blog. YOU MUST APPLY THE PRIMER AND WAIT FOR IT TO DRY TO THE TOUCH. NOTHING WILL STICK TO IT WITHIN REASON. WHEN IT IS MET BY THE SEAM TAPE YOU GET ONE SHOT TO GET IT RIGHT IT STICKS ON CONTACT TO PRIMER OR SEAM TAPE. IT WILL NOT STICK TO.PLASTIC UNLESS IT TOO HAD PRIMER ON IT.

Lol, I have indeed watched the videos, and multiple others on seaming. I will go back and watch again, just to be sure i didn't miss anything. Just haven't seen anyone do it in segments like I'm about to, so I'm overly cautious. Like you said, once primed I've got one chance to not screw it up !

I suggest trying it on scrap if you have any. You clean , prime , let dry, roll up the seam tape if not pre primed, and as you roll it out leave the plastic on it once it is lined up the way you like it you pull out the plastic while smoothing it out as you go having anyone hold the roll while you work it

I suggest trying it on scrap if you have any. You clean , prime , let dry, roll up the seam tape if not pre primed, and as you roll it out leave the plastic on it once it is lined up the way you like it you pull out the plastic while smoothing it out as you go having anyone hold the roll while you work it helps tremendously