My pond runs all winter, zone 2/3

callingcolleen1

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Ok I just looked that up, and minis -52C is minus -61 Fahrenheit!! Yikes!! Good thing they have a trailer to sleep in and stay warm out there. I heard the job will be cancelled, good thing cause I can't imagine workin outside in those extrême windchills!
 
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I was just following along with the general conversation about the COLD! When Colleen made mention above about converting temps, so I wanted to chime in with a formula.

Most people generally know or were at least taught at one point in life how to convert temperature scales from Fahrenheit to Celsius (Centigrade) and vice-versa via these two formulas:

C = F - 32 x 5/9

and

F = C x 9/5 + 32

But, these formulas can be difficult to remember at times. What operation do you do first? Add or Subract? Multiply or Divide? etcetera.

I have two formulas which are a little bit easier to remember, if you understand one thing...

The Fahrenheit and the Celcius scale cross eachother (or equal eachother) at -40 degrees, that is MINUS 40 degrees. Therefore 40 enters intio the NEW equation rather than 32.

The alternative formulas are:

C = F + 40 X 5/9 - 40

and

F = C + 40 X 9/5 - 40


I find these formulas easier to remember because you ALWAYS..... ADD first, MULTIPLY second, DIVIDE third and SUBTRACT last in both scenarios.
AND because Fahrenheit, Forty and Five begin with the letter F, so the Five has to be the numerator when F's are involved.

i.e Fahrenheit plus Forty times Five..... (then divide by nine and subtract 40).

Now the only difference in the equation (as it is identical in math operations for both conversions) is whether it is 5 or 9 that you multiply by first.\

i.e Centigrade plus Forty times Nine..... (then divide by five and subtract 40).

Try it out, amuse your friends! Stump and baffle or piss off your kid's teacher at school because you know something they don't and can prove it!

Hee Hee! :)

Catfishnut
 

addy1

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lol me too math and I do not get along, surprising since I had to do all the advanced calculus, physics, etc to get my degrees...........still suck at math.
Love the conversion apps, put one on my phone works great.
 

j.w

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Gonna try that Gordy when I get my new computer set up. I just emailed it to myself for safekeeping.
You know what's weird is our little temperature banners used to say the F and the C temps but now I just noticed they only say the F for me and you too addy.
 

addy1

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I think the big ones just did F jw, the small ones did c and f, could be wrong though.
 

j.w

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Hmmmmm could have sworn my big one was showing both recently but then maybe I was just looking at Colleens when I thought that.
 
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Colleen,

I am still designing and planning the construction of my outdoor fish tank and I really would like to have it operational 24/7/365 here in Nebraska where our USDA cold hardiness zone is 5a and our heat zone is 7.

I am not sure I understand the zone ratings they have assigned to our locale.
The description of zone 5a for cold hardiness is that the average annual minimum temperature is -15 to -20 degrees F (and we border on 5b which should be -20 to -35 degrees F).
In my lifetime, I have rarely observed the temperature here to fall below -15 F, therefore I don't comprehend the "average annual minimum" being -15 to -20 degrees F. I think my area should be more towards the 6b zone. This zone covers the 0 to -5 degree F range. That minimum temperature range I can buy.

Regardless of the cold hardiness zone assignment, that still means that it is below the freezing point of water for many days and nights during the winter season.
I use the guideline of winterizing my cabin water system, i.e. taking my pump and well out of service at the cabin, on or before October 15th and I don't set it back up until April 15th.
This assures me that I never have any frozen pipes or broken pumps. Since I do not stay at the cabin during the winter months I do not heat the place, so I cannot leave the water works going for the obvious reasons.

In the future, I plan to change this and heat the cabin and have water available all year around.

This presents another dilemna as I cannot install my outdoor fish tank, filter barrels and pipes below grade (underground) where they would have insulation from the cold temps.
My cabin lot is adjacent to the river and we do get flooding, so I will have to elevate my pond tank and barrels sufficiently to prevent them from filling with flood water and silt or even floating away or otherwise damaged.

Basically what this all leads to is that I need to insulate and heat everything above ground if I want to keep it fully operational all year long. I have access to a lot of really good insulation materials at cheap prices, but I need to discover the best method to keep the water heated to prevent the water from freezing in the pipes running from the pond to the filter system and back to the tank. I would also like to keep the temperature of the bio-converter tank above 45 to 50 degrees F at least. This way, the nitrifying bacteria will only go dormant or slow down their metabolism, but not be killed off.

I do not think a simple tank heater like you would use to keep a small hole open in the pond ice would be sufficient. i am not sure what I will need as I have never attempted this before. I have some ideas for a heating system, but not sure how well they will operate.

My current idea is to use an "on-demand" or "point of use" water heater and either run the pond water directly through it (the most efficient heating method) or install a heat exchanger of some sort (maybe coils of copper tubing) and run an antifreeze solution through the coils to heat the water in one of the barrels or in the actual pond/tank by conduction method.

Another idea I have is to utilize a solar panel to heat the circulating water during the daylight hours and the electric "point of use" water heater at night. That would save some money on energy costs. The pumps are going to have to run 24/7 during the cold winter. However, I wouldn't have to run a heater 24/7 because the temps may not always be that cold. As long as the solar panel was supplied with running water, it should not freeze in the night and during the day, it may gather enough energy from the sun to keep the pond and filter tanks and pipes warm enough to not freeze overnight. If the temp drops too much overnight, the "on-demand" water heater could kick in and maintain the temp until the sun comes back up.

Do you or does anyone else wish to offer any suggestions for me on this subject?

Colleen, you seemed to be the most likely person to ask since you are about as far north as anyone else on this forum so you deal with the cold (and colder) temps more than most of us do down here in the more temperate areas of the US. Obviously, the title of your thread brought me here to ask questions.

Gordy
 

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