sissy
sissy
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30 years has not worked for me I at least would like more than 2 years with my 45 mil liner
Great for indoor use...Where do I find this 20 mil liner, is it good quality? $40 for 14x15 are you sure? It's way more expensive then that I found.
YEs from China, my fish would be dead in a week. It's about $159 for the size I need, 45mil $259.Lowes carries 20mil liner. Its much cheaper than the 45mil but will not last as long.
Thanks, that looks like ok product for inside use and is cheaper. Only 3-6 years warranty. Probably last longer inside.Great for indoor use...
Checkout billboard pond liner.. 22mil
https://billboardtarps.com/product-category/pond-liners/
45 mil that lasted only 2 years?30 years has not worked for me I at least would like more than 2 years with my 45 mil liner
She has had a lot of critter damage, dogs, moles, etc, not liner failure.45 mil that lasted only 2 years?
The minimum is 10 gallons per pound of fish.
When I researched the water requirement, the range broke out to between 10 and 80 gallons per pound depending on the pond type and fish cost. You are absolutely right that there is no hard standard, just a range depending on which type of pond the owner builds. A championship pond for example goes up to between 40. And 60 gallons per pound because of the safety requirement to raise a championship koi to maturity. A true nature pond could go higher if the accent is on nature and not fish. But for the average koi keeper 10 to 30 is common in the four typical pond types. As for poundage measures, there are several graphs that convert inches to pounds. 1000 one inch fish is not the same as 33 fish 33 inches long. Converting to pounds helps to manage feeding rates at between 2% and 3% of total body weight which is the aquacultural standard range most commonly used. I fully agree with your comment on multivariability. I personally prefer to base my measurements on pond type and fish weight to determine management variables like cleaning schedules, feeding rates, and chemical measurement standards. It also sorts out disease and environmental problems specific to pond types.There are other variables - type of fish, surface area, type and level of filtration to name a few - that make a "rule of thumb" like this one obsolete. For example, if I had 1000 gallons of water you're saying I could have 100 lbs of fish. What is that - maybe 20 good sized koi? But what if that 1000 gallons of water was in a vessel that was only 2 feet by 2 feet but 35 feet deep - I'd have roughly 1000 gallons of water, but very little surface area to allow for gas exchange. I realize that's an extreme example, but it illustrates the problem with these kinds of formulaic answers.
Not to mention the fact that it's more frequently quotes as "per inch of fish" - which is still problematic, but somewhat more reasonable to determine how many inches of fish I have versus how many pounds.
four typical pond types
While researching pond construction, disease, measurements, and other variables, I looked at every conceivable pond and grouped them into 8 categories. The reason for the grouping was because measurements, advice, construction, and cleaning methods for example, were all over the map on advice. When I grouped them, things started to make sense. The groups are koi farm ponds, vendor ponds, display ponds, faux water gardens, hybrid water gardens, true water gardens, championship ponds and aquascape ponds. Bottom line you can't use the advice from a championship pond owner to build and manage a display pond. Display pond advice doesn't work for an aquascapes pond. That said all 8 pond types are perfectly valid koi environments. Just don't mix and match. The four typical pond types are display, faux water gardens, true watergardens, and aquascapes ponds. As an example a championship pond owner will say that ammonia must always be zero. In my display pond, the ammonia level never got below 0.125 during high summer feeding no matter what I did. Then I talked to a nationally known koi farm manager who laughed my reading off and said his grow tanks never get below 1.0 with no residual effect to the fish. Huh? The grouping helps to make sense of this information.What are you referring to here?
While researching pond construction, disease, measurements, and other variables, I looked at every conceivable pond and grouped them into 8 categories. The reason for the grouping was because measurements, advice, construction, and cleaning methods for example, were all over the map on advice. When I grouped them, things started to make sense. The groups are koi farm ponds, vendor ponds, display ponds, faux water gardens, hybrid water gardens, true water gardens, championship ponds and aquascape ponds. Bottom line you can't use the advice from a championship pond owner to build and manage a display pond. Display pond advice doesn't work for an aquascapes pond. That said all 8 pond types are perfectly valid koi environments. Just don't mix and match. The four typical pond types are display, faux water gardens, true watergardens, and aquascapes ponds. As an example a championship pond owner will say that ammonia must always be zero. In my display pond, the ammonia level never got below 0.125 during high summer feeding no matter what I did. Then I talked to a nationally known koi farm manager who laughed my reading off and said his grow tanks never get below 1.0 with no residual effect to the fish. Huh? The grouping helps to make sense of this information.
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