BOG IDEAS & INSIGHT NEEDED (PICTURES, TOO....)

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They are one of the least expensive products in the Keystone product line. http://www.keystonewalls.com/index.html (there are dealers in your area). This one is called compac. These go together with pins. They can be stacked straight up or stepped... more structural;y sound than the blocks designed with a built in stacking lip ,,, geogrid is a fabric that sort of looks like deer netting, but much stronger, that you install while building the wall if going beyond a certain height... would have to ask hubby, but for this block, in the 2-3' range, I am pretty sure you do not need it. This particular block is 8" high, 18" face length, and 12" depth... Hubby has done a lot of walls in this block. Here's a round one he did this year (he also topped dressed the driveway with new gravel and did the cobblestones too).

DSCN3676_zps4926a994.jpg
 
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One more pic... I havent found the other disc yet... this was a close up of a patio and firepit he did, but look way in the background, you can see more of the same block work that he did, but this one was in rose color...

vfwfirepit_zpsb30ee082.jpg
 

Mmathis

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CW -- thanks! Great looking product. I liked the ones that looked like stacked stone. I checked and there is a distributer close by. Is it a retail product for DIY use?
 
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Then if I need more, sounds like it would help if I added a small trickle tower. I've seen lots of different ways to built a TT, so think I can do that, but is there a "rule of thumb" for what size to make it?
Not really a rule of thumb, but looking at people's ponds you can get an idea. Let's say the top of the TT would be like 1% of the pond's surface area. So a 10'x10' pond would have a TT that was 1'x1' and 2-4' tall. I've never seen a pond that had TT much bigger, or even multiple TTs. If that much is needed it seems like people opt for Bakki Shower type filters instead or moving bed.

But the bottom line is always the same...if ammonia or nitrite levels are a problem you know you need more. If measure none you know you don't need any more. Assuming warm water of course.
 
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On the Keystone type products...great for what they're designed to do, but not good for raised ponds, at least very high. For example, the max spec for the Keystone products is in the 2-3' range...but that holding back earth. Water is entirely different and no one should expect a 2-3' pond wall made with these to last. It could out last us all, or blow out tomorrow. It's certainly high risk. I'd start worrying at 18-24" unless it was maybe for a temporary type pond like for less than a month or so.

The high walls pictured with Keystone type products use a specific type of product and lots of other things anchored into the earth to keep these up. A pond can't use these because there's nothing to anchor into.
 

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On the Keystone type products...great for what they're designed to do, but not good for raised ponds, at least very high. For example, the max spec for the Keystone products is in the 2-3' range...but that holding back earth. Water is entirely different and no one should expect a 2-3' pond wall made with these to last. It could out last us all, or blow out tomorrow. It's certainly high risk. I'd start worrying at 18-24" unless it was maybe for a temporary type pond like for less than a month or so.

The high walls pictured with Keystone type products use a specific type of product and lots of other things anchored into the earth to keep these up. A pond can't use these because there's nothing to anchor into.
What would you recommend for, say, a 2' wall?
 
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It's not so much the height, it's how you want the wall to perform. Like if this was something you didn't mind risking some bulging or even complete failure, the Keystone type products could work, or even regular concrete block filled with just soil. For example you have a pond 2' below ground and 2' above even a complete failure probably wouldn't harm too much. Repair is just re-stacking. There's a big upside to having the parts re-useable imo. Non-gunite ponds seem to have very short lifespans as far as I can see. Like 5-10 years for say 99% of ponds it seems to me. They either get changed or removed.

At the other end if you wanted to finish the outside by attaching some stone veneer you'd be investing a lot more time and money and probably want a longer lasting solution that didn't move and crack all your work. For that I'd use standard building practices. Footer at a proper depth for your locale, bond beam block, with vertical and horizontal rebar, filled with concrete. Or even a poured concrete wall.

Then there's many options in-between. I'm considering using straw bales, sand bags or adobe for my next pond just because of my climate and I like to try different things. I have to be realistic though and except the problems I might have based on what people have already learned about those construction methods.

When building something like a house there are few options. By law in some countries it has to be built to last. For DIY type hobby projects you're free to do pretty much whatever you like. Kind of strange that makes DIY more complex to pick a building method because the choices are endless and almost all unstudied. But more fun imo.
 

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Well, I do know that I WILL go with a footer, but not sure about a wall material or construction method -- too confusing at this point! We have a couple of parents in our Boy Scout troop who are contractors [or some related field], so I might ask them for advice. They might have access to and be able to obtain a material that I wouldn't ordinarily have access to.

Gosh, the temps are so mild, would LOVE to be out there digging right now, but we've had a week of rain -- our clay......
 

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On another few "bog" notes.... Sorry, but not sure how to phrase things, so hope y'all can follow along. I plan to have a "waterfall" type return to the pond, maybe with a short stream into the pond.

Since the top of the water level will be the height of the waterfall, how far above water level should the gravel [and top of the bog wall] be? And what are some good methods for making that area where the water exits -- so that it flows out well, but doesn't take the gravel with it? I have visions of gravel flowing out with the waterfall.
 
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CW -- thanks! Great looking product. I liked the ones that looked like stacked stone. I checked and there is a distributer close by. Is it a retail product for DIY use?

It is a commercial/professional product, but a handy home owner can do it themself. Lowes carries similar LOOKING items, but I have never seen "Keystone" products available with Lowes. There are cheaper version that look similar, but use the "lip" method, which are "ok" for a home owner to use (less skill needed/weigh less) but that is about all I can say for them. No where near as strong... Go check out the supplier near you and see the product for yourself.
 

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On another few "bog" notes.... Sorry, but not sure how to phrase things, so hope y'all can follow along. I plan to have a "waterfall" type return to the pond, maybe with a short stream into the pond.

Since the top of the water level will be the height of the waterfall, how far above water level should the gravel [and top of the bog wall] be? And what are some good methods for making that area where the water exits -- so that it flows out well, but doesn't take the gravel with it? I have visions of gravel flowing out with the waterfall.

Mathis take a look at this pic. This is a pic of the top of my bog and the rock the water travels down to the small waterfall and then onto the creek. I have very little gravel that washed down may a cup full. I keep the gravel level about 1" below the rock and this keeps it from washing down. I also created a small river in the bog that is about 1" deep. In the second pic this is when I first built it, I added gravel to make the river in the bog a lot smaller, it is now about 1/3 the size of what is in the pic.
 

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Well, I do know that I WILL go with a footer, but not sure about a wall material or construction method -- too confusing at this point!
For simple go with standard building practice. I'd use 3/8" (#3) rebar. Cut vertical pieces that can be stuck into the wet footer and come up to a couple of inches below the top of the wall. The rebar should not push thru the concrete all the way to soil. Rebar should be completely enclosed in concrete. One vertical every other block, or you can add more if you like. I lay the first course in the footer while it's still wet and place the vertical rebar after the concrete sets up a little.

Next day lay the remaining courses, just dry stacked, no mortar. Stagger the vertical joints, calling a "running bond" pattern, like most people thick of bricks. Easy as pie. The top course should be blocks called "bond beam". Every place that sells regular blocks will also have bond beam blocks. In that top course you lay a continuous strand of the #3 rebar horizontally. It make it continuous you overlap 24". You can tie the overlap together with wire sold next to the rebar. They have a tool for twisting the wire but for a small job pliers are fine.

Fill the holes in the blocks with concrete. Let cure 4 weeks. You want temps to be above say 50F.

Pretty easy really especially with such a short wall. For 2' above ground in LA I'd say one course below ground was plenty deep enough, so just 4 courses total would get you nearly 2' above ground. Because it's not high it's tough to get the top too far off level if the first course is pretty level. It's not a house. And dry stacked means it's easier to adjust blocks to get a straight wall.

When you fill I like a pretty dry mix, mash potatoes, not pudding. I put some in and use a stick, like a 1"x1" to pack the concrete in. The less water the stronger the concrete and when dry it basically sets up as you pack it. Less problems.

You will end up with one gap between blocks on each course. When the concrete is poured you can put a piece of wood on either side to keep the concrete in.

If you like you can build the entire thing out of bond beam blocks if you like and place horizontal rebar in as many courses as you like. But for 2' high I'd say the top course was plenty.

This technique is call "core filled dry stacked block". If you Google you'll find a lot about just "dry stacked" where a coat of cement is skimmed over the block on both sides, like stucco. That technique isn't strong enough for your application and isn't needed when the blocks are filled with concrete.
 
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On the Keystone type products...great for what they're designed to do, but not good for raised ponds, at least very high. For example, the max spec for the Keystone products is in the 2-3' range...but that holding back earth. Water is entirely different and no one should expect a 2-3' pond wall made with these to last. It could out last us all, or blow out tomorrow. It's certainly high risk. I'd start worrying at 18-24" unless it was maybe for a temporary type pond like for less than a month or so.

I missed this post WB, and I have to strongly disagree with you here. We have installed two large ponds with these, as well as done walls as high as 6' tall with the same product. In one application, it is holding back a PARKING LOT, where 18' box trucks PARK parralell to the wall, and only away from the blocks by a max of 3'... will look through my computer to see if I can find the pictures. If not, I can shoot over and grab new pics of the wall holding back the parking lot, as that is only down the street from me. That wall has been in place for 8-10 years now, without a single issue of any type.
 

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