Wetland Filter

[Jhn]

Thanks Pondfun,
The link isn't showing up for me-
Yes the large ABS seems to be quite pricey, and I don't believe there needs to be any serious structural integrity, so I liked the garbage can idea. I just wasn't 100% sure how you connected to the corrugated pipe. Good to know you just fit it in through a hole.

Had you found any links on guidelines for flow physics? I guess I'm wondering how big the "centipede" pipes actually need to be. They're only serving to distribute the water under the rock, so I really don't see why they need to be as large as the aquascape versions (13" I think).
My pond is a bit large and I'm going to need a wetland of at least 15x20 so I'm considering running 3x8" corrugated x 20' long, spaced every 3' or so. Seems to me that would be sufficient, but as others have used larger diameter I just wonder about the actual physics behind the "centipede" diameter. Obviously it also depends on the GPH through the system, but I feel like most of us are theorizing on how the water is actually being distributed as the pipes are all buried when it's actually operating.
I suppose if one started with the GPH you wanted to run through the system, (based on pond size and desired turnover) through the wetland, you arrive at your pump capacity. But it seems to me, even if you were up in the 8000 GPH size a few 8" pipes would distribute that flow pretty well.

Thanks

The size of the pipe Is to let the flow of water slow down to let any solids/particulate matter settle out of the water column and work it’s way to the snorkel/trash can, where it can be removed as needed. Can’t remember the ideal amount of flow, but you want dwell timefor the water in the wetland filter, so the plants can do their job. So you aren’t usually trying to turn your whole pond volume over a couple times per hour through the bog.

Those trash cans need to have some structural integrity, the sideways push of gravel and stone 3’ deep may start pushing in on the trash cans, have seen it happen on the actual aquascape snorkel, which is abit beefier than the trash cans.

 

[Pondfun]

Thanks Pondfun,
The link isn't showing up for me-
Yes the large ABS seems to be quite pricey, and I don't believe there needs to be any serious structural integrity, so I liked the garbage can idea. I just wasn't 100% sure how you connected to the corrugated pipe. Good to know you just fit it in through a hole.

Had you found any links on guidelines for flow physics? I guess I'm wondering how big the "centipede" pipes actually need to be. They're only serving to distribute the water under the rock, so I really don't see why they need to be as large as the aquascape versions (13" I think).
My pond is a bit large and I'm going to need a wetland of at least 15x20 so I'm considering running 3x8" corrugated x 20' long, spaced every 3' or so. Seems to me that would be sufficient, but as others have used larger diameter I just wonder about the actual physics behind the "centipede" diameter. Obviously it also depends on the GPH through the system, but I feel like most of us are theorizing on how the water is actually being distributed as the pipes are all buried when it's actually operating.
I suppose if one started with the GPH you wanted to run through the system, (based on pond size and desired turnover) through the wetland, you arrive at your pump capacity. But it seems to me, even if you were up in the 8000 GPH size a few 8" pipes would distribute that flow pretty well.

Thanks

My wetland is 12 x 7 feet the pipe under the creates as long as it is at least 6 inch or larger it is OK. I cut slots out on the pipe every 5 inches on the top left of the pipe and top right of the pipe along the whole 10 foot pipe section The slots are about 1/2 inch wide each. As for wetland flow rates Aquascape uses this formula for every large centipede ( the 6 footers) you use 1500 GPH flow rate. This is what they told me when I called them. I do not know if this is correct or not but this is what they said. So if you use 4 centipede's than you times 1500 x4 to get your flow rate. Here is a phot0 of the Rubbermaid trash cans. I doubled them up for strength and used stainless steel screws and bolts to fasten them together. If you look at the bottom you can see the ABS pipe entrance into the can. Also I put foam in the spaces connecting the cans so no rocks get in there.

 

[GBBUDD]

I second the trash cans are shaky at best to hold back three feet of stone. 12" i could agree to as theres not a lot there how ever every time you walk around your snorkel your packing the soil. The do have a 1/8 fiberglass sheeting that wouldn't be an issue in the bog i would wrap at least one if not two layers around the outside of your trash can then i could feel good long term it would not collapse.

 

[Pondfun]

I second the trash cans are shaky at best to hold back three feet of stone. 12" i could agree to as theres not a lot there how ever every time you walk around your snorkel your packing the soil. The do have a 1/8 fiberglass sheeting that wouldn't be an issue in the bog i would wrap at least one if not two layers around the outside of your trash can then i could feel good long term it would not collapse.

The snorkel they sell is solid it cannot expand in the cold. I know of people who had problems with them when temps went down to 5 degrees in the winter and the snorkel cracked. This friend of mine used the Rubbermaid cans and never had a problem again. He had to dig the snorkel out and replaced it with the cans. When you put two cans together they are thicker than the snorkel they sell and expand when needed. They will not crush. You have two opposing forces water within the can and water outside of the can. If the can were empty yes than it could be a problem but the water will be the same level inside the can as the wetland filter. There are no moving parts or gravel to crush the cans once they are in place. They sell special water proof underwater tape.

Aqua-Seal Tape in Black
by Nashua Tape
You can wrap this underwater tape around the whole can if someone wants to. The cans are not in the dirt they are in the wetland filter the gravel is around the cans.

• Durable, shatter-proof construction withstands severe weather conditions, including intense sunlight and freezing temperatures
• Engineered for life and built to last, backed by a 10 Year Limited Warranty. I use these same trash cans myself for my garbage. They were hit by cars stepped on and they are still good.
• Another idea if someone is worried about the cans crushing is to put another Rubbermaid can bigger is width and length and cut out the bottom of the can and put it over and fill in the void space with pond foam. That would really make it stronger. Just more ideas. Thanks

 

[Pondfun]

The snorkel they sell is solid it cannot expand in the cold. I know of people who had problems with them when temps went down to 5 degrees in the winter and the snorkel cracked. This friend of mine used the Rubbermaid cans and never had a problem again. He had to dig the snorkel out and replaced it with the cans. When you put two cans together they are thicker than the snorkel they sell and expand when needed. They will not crush. You have two opposing forces water within the can and water outside of the can. If the can were empty yes than it could be a problem but the water will be the same level inside the can as the wetland filter. There are no moving parts or gravel to crush the cans once they are in place. They sell special water proof underwater tape.

Aqua-Seal Tape in Black
by Nashua Tape
You can wrap this underwater tape around the whole can if someone wants to. The cans are not in the dirt they are in the wetland filter the gravel is around the cans.

• Durable, shatter-proof construction withstands severe weather conditions, including intense sunlight and freezing temperatures
• Engineered for life and built to last, backed by a 10 Year Limited Warranty. I use these same trash cans myself for my garbage. They were hit by cars stepped on and they are still good.
• Another idea if someone is worried about the cans crushing is to put another Rubbermaid can bigger is width and length and cut out the bottom of the can and put it over and fill in the void space with pond foam. That would really make it stronger. Just more ideas. Thanks

Here is a fun link how strong Rubbermaid cans are:

 

[GBBUDD]

i was just thinking even styro foam peanuts between the thrash cans could help out so when the wall starts to bend inward the peanuts would help to push back from the other can and lock with waterfall foam.

Whoops for got to send... yes i know the rubber made roughneck better then i would like to. no one who works in construction hasn't used those for a hole host of reasons. they are very tough.

I hope your right , we do not tell anyone they are doing wrong after all that's how this trade started with the rubber someone had and idea and went for it I'm sure people told them they were nuts. matter of fact some people still do saying what your pond has no chemicals you can't go swimming in that. So it's no so much a right or wrong but more voices of experience who have had or seen something work or not fully work as intended.

 

[Pondfun]

Thanks Pondfun,
The link isn't showing up for me-
Yes the large ABS seems to be quite pricey, and I don't believe there needs to be any serious structural integrity, so I liked the garbage can idea. I just wasn't 100% sure how you connected to the corrugated pipe. Good to know you just fit it in through a hole.

Had you found any links on guidelines for flow physics? I guess I'm wondering how big the "centipede" pipes actually need to be. They're only serving to distribute the water under the rock, so I really don't see why they need to be as large as the aquascape versions (13" I think).
My pond is a bit large and I'm going to need a wetland of at least 15x20 so I'm considering running 3x8" corrugated x 20' long, spaced every 3' or so. Seems to me that would be sufficient, but as others have used larger diameter I just wonder about the actual physics behind the "centipede" diameter. Obviously it also depends on the GPH through the system, but I feel like most of us are theorizing on how the water is actually being distributed as the pipes are all buried when it's actually operating.
I suppose if one started with the GPH you wanted to run through the system, (based on pond size and desired turnover) through the wetland, you arrive at your pump capacity. But it seems to me, even if you were up in the 8000 GPH size a few 8" pipes would distribute that flow pretty well.
Here are the links again. Try them. One link is on the MFG test strength of the Milk creates the other is on the ABS pipe how to make your own wetland filter. Please note: When making mine I tried the chain saw idea they had. It is to dangerous that way and rips the pipe instead. I just drilled out the holes and used a utility knife to cut them out. The video shows them cutting the top of the pipe I would not do it that way in weakens the pipe. I cut 2 inches down from the top of the pipe on both sides make the slits about 4 inches long by 1/2 or 1 inch wide every 5 inches across the entire length of the pipe. Good luck with your project.

Thanks

http://www.bogfiltration.com/making_your_own_upflow_bog_filte.html
https://www.milkcratesdirect.com/blog/how-strong-are-farm-plast-milk-crates/

 

[brokensword]

Here is a fun link how strong Rubbermaid cans are:

I will say that I used a rubbermaid trash can for my bog upgrade. One for a cleanout/vault and in my bog v1, I used one to house a lotus. the bog v2 can I ended up filling with pea gravel and iris as the water was coming up through more than I wanted, so I put some resistance in the way. The lotus bog garbage can IS bowing in from the stone around it, but only on one side and indented about 4". I didn't feel like digging it out and reinforcing. You're using 2 so won't probably get this issue but I'm here to say water on one side vs stone on the other? Stone wins.

 

[poconojoe]

I have one question has anybody ever tried to make the wetland filter part of the pond itself so the fish can swim into that section? Most wetland filters are separate from the pond it's self having just a stream or waterfall flowing back into the pond from the wetland filter. The fish cannot enter that section. If the wetland filter is part of the pond the water from the pond will be above the wetland and the fish would be able to swim in and enjoy that part of the pond. The wetland would still function the same way, water will still come though the normal way though the gravel but now coming up and mixing with the pond water which would be 9 inches in depth. The difference would be your fish would be able to swim into that part of the pond because it would be part of the pond? Most ponds that do have wetland filters the fish cannot enter that section because it is higher than the pond it's self or is blocked off. If I was able to do it the other way I would use a water fall going into the wetland area from water from the pond to oxygenate the water flowing up though the wetland. That is just a thought. Has anybody ever tried it that way? Thanks

That idea reminds me of the old under gravel filter we used in our tropical fish aquariums years ago. I still have one. Basically a plastic false bottom with lots of slits that lays on the bottom and is covered with that colorful gravel. If I recall correctly, air was pumped down a tube to the device.

The only downside I see would be lack of access. You would have to drain the pond to access it.
Noting that you really shouldn't need to access the bog itself since bogs are usually maintenance free.
I don't know where your pump will be located. Most likely submerged in the pond.
Obviously, the pump should not be permanently buried under there.

 

[Pondfun]

I will say that I used a rubbermaid trash can for my bog upgrade. One for a cleanout/vault and in my bog v1, I used one to house a lotus. the bog v2 can I ended up filling with pea gravel and iris as the water was coming up through more than I wanted, so I put some resistance in the way. The lotus bog garbage can IS bowing in from the stone around it, but only on one side and indented about 4". I didn't feel like digging it out and reinforcing. You're using 2 so won't probably get this issue but I'm here to say water on one side vs stone on the other? Stone wins.

You have to make up for it by double cans one inside the other plus stainless screw bolts to hold them together. Did 2 1/2 yards yesterday to today. A lot of work.

 

[Pondfun]

You have to make up for it by double cans one inside the other plus stainless screw bolts to hold them together. Did 2 1/2 yards yesterday to today. A lot of work.

Yo can also ad cross braces in the cans if you want.

 

[Pondfun]

You have to make up for it by double cans one inside the other plus stainless screw bolts to hold them together. Did 2 1/2 yards yesterday to today. A lot of work.

Another remedy if you want and worried about cans bowing on the side is to put boulders or cement blocks all around the can all the way to the top. This way no gravel can push against the can at all. The can would be by its self protects.

 

[Pondfun]

Here's an update on my wetland filter. I finished putting in the three layers of gravel, 7 1/2 yards, 15,000 lbs. It took me 7 days using two buckets to fill up the 7 x 12 wetland. Crazy right? Ha.. I tried to use a wheel barrel but found it much harder to move that amount of stone in the area I had to work with. I could not get a Bobcat in their either so I did it the hard way. Anyway it is done. Now I have to rock it in and finish the new pond add on. I filled up the wetland to test via a hose because I do not have the new addition pond ready yet with pumps. Here are some photos.

 

[poconojoe]

Great job!
Thanks for sharing pictures.

 

[Pondfun]

Great job!
Thanks for sharing pictures.

Thank you.