Wetland Filter

[j.w]

@Pondfun

 

[addy1]

Welcome to our forum!

 

[Pondfun]

Let me try one more time... not trying to be ornery or nosy, just want to make sure I'm being clear.

The blocks are not the concern (although, the milk crate idea is still an open debate here as to how much weight they can hold, but that's another conversation) - the concern I have is the manifold. Your pipe running right down the middle of the bog is not a standard set up. Most builds have multiple runs, not one single run. That's all I'm trying to convey - will that work to move water equally through the whole bog? Or will it just push water up through the middle?

Here's a couple of examples from this forum - someone else drew these, so they aren't mine, but just for illustration of what I'm talking about:

View attachment 135724View attachment 135725

There's definitely a difference when you run water through those "arms" versus just right up the middle. The question is - will it matter?

We actually used an Aquascape centipede for our manifold. It looks similar to this:

View attachment 135726

So while we don't have the "arms" we have water flow from all but the bottom of the unit. Perhaps yours will function the same way.

Let me try one more time... not trying to be ornery or nosy, just want to make sure I'm being clear.

The blocks are not the concern (although, the milk crate idea is still an open debate here as to how much weight they can hold, but that's another conversation) - the concern I have is the manifold. Your pipe running right down the middle of the bog is not a standard set up. Most builds have multiple runs, not one single run. That's all I'm trying to convey - will that work to move water equally through the whole bog? Or will it just push water up through the middle?

Here's a couple of examples from this forum - someone else drew these, so they aren't mine, but just for illustration of what I'm talking about:

View attachment 135724View attachment 135725

There's definitely a difference when you run water through those "arms" versus just right up the middle. The question is - will it matter?

We actually used an Aquascape centipede for our manifold. It looks similar to this:

View attachment 135726

So while we don't have the "arms" we have water flow from all but the bottom of the unit. Perhaps yours will function the same way.

Your above example is another way of doing it./ As for the Milk Creates strength. These milk creates are reinforced creates without the reinforcement they can hold 2500 lbs each. I added even more reinforcement by drilling though the creates and putting 1 inch pvc pipe plus a center support so you have supports going both ways. Each create can hold more than 3500 lbs. I tested them also by having a friend of mine put his 4/4 dodge pickup truck on top of them. They are also tested by the milk create company I enclosed a photo. As for the pipe running down the middle the whole idea is the blocks which are on top of the pipe. The water fills the void space and spreads out left and right and than up. When someone puts just piping without blocks than that causes a distribution problem with the water trying to work it's way up though the gravel. The key here are the blocks. The void space is the design that Aquascape uses in their wetland filters design.

 

[Pondfun]

Lisa; while I'm also following your logic, imo, it won't matter. Consider; the water is forced (up,sideways, down--we've all done this water exit thing in different ways) out and like the saying 'water finds the path of least resistance' goes, the water then hits whatever barrier is first. If pointed up (the manifold), the water hits the aquablox first (after spreading out side to side as that is the way of least resistance) and then rising, the first layer of rock (if graduated. If not, then the pea gravel). This barrier provides the next level of resistance and again, water will seek the least path. So no matter that the pump is 'forcing', the water will flow into the easiest areas. It's not until there's pressure coming back from the above barriers does it then find other ways. If the water only was forced upward in a single direction, roots wouldn't bother the flow and you'd have no channeling. But it happens. Just like the roots, the rocks will be the resistance. Down below, any open space will be the first filling, then the next larger open areas (like between large rocks, as I have) and once past, into the next layer, same philosophy.

So, imo, unless you have the pea gravel all the way down, as long as you have open areas be it via aquablox or large boulders/stones, the water will distribute more or less evenly. And, as the above easy channels get clogged in any way, the water will be forced into those that are not, thus changing the upward path again.



JMHO

Excellent explanation thank you.

 

[Pondfun]

I upgraded/enlarged my bog recently to the centipede snorkel style as my pond Is getting over populated. And figured just in case I need to clean it might as well make it as easy as possible.

I will say no matter the size of the wetland filter it helps, but if you are building a large pond and it gets overpopulated with fish that get large like most, I would shoot to make the bog the roughly recommended 30% of the pond surface area If possible. Is this pond going to be attached to your existing pond/s and the only filter for the pond, either way the bog is undersized for the size pond you are building. Unless you like to tinker and add things which it seems like you do, then you can just plan for your next addition to be another bog.

The existing pond I have now I have two waterfalls and to bio filters which are oversized for the pond. The existing pond will merge with the new addition. As for size of the wetland filter I am trying to go larger but I have one problem their is a deck and also on the other size a cesspool which I cannot go near. The size varies from contractor to contractor on size of Wetland filter. Some people say 10 to 20 % of the pond size others say 20 to 30% here is a link which have different specs. I know the larger the filter the better.

Bog filter design- what size? | Ozponds

A bog or wetland filter is the most effective pond filter there is. In this article I will explain exactly how big or small to…

ozponds.com

.

 

[poconojoe]

The existing pond I have now I have two waterfalls and to bio filters which are oversized for the pond. The existing pond will merge with the new addition. As for size of the wetland filter I am trying to go larger but I have one problem their is a deck and also on the other size a cesspool which I cannot go near. The size varies from contractor to contractor on size of Wetland filter. Some people say 10 to 20 % of the pond size others say 20 to 30% here is a link which have different specs. I know the larger the filter the better.

Bog filter design- what size? | Ozponds

A bog or wetland filter is the most effective pond filter there is. In this article I will explain exactly how big or small to…

ozponds.com

.

Idk...everything I've read on the size of a bog states a bog's surface area should be 30% of the pond's surface area. That's if you have a decent fish load. 15% without any fish.
My bog is slightly larger than 30% and I have a very large fish load. Over 30 fish (various goldfish and about 6 koi) ranging from new babies to huge koi over 10 years old.
My water has been crystal clear since adding the bog. Before the bog it was solid green pea soup.

 

[Pondfun]

Idk...everything I've read on the size of a bog states a bog's surface area should be 30% of the pond's surface area. That's if you have a decent fish load. 15% without any fish.
My bog is slightly larger than 30% and I have a very large fish load. Over 30 fish (various goldfish and about 6 koi) ranging from new babies to huge koi over 10 years old.
My water has been crystal clear since adding the bog. Before the bog it was solid green pea soup.

Yes I am looking at another area around the pond to maybe ad a second wetland filter which will than give me over 30% surface. Also I may be able to expand the wetland filter on the other side by maybe 5 feet which will give me more surface.

 

[Mmathis]

@Lisak1 I think those are my drawings

 

[Lisak1]

@Lisak1 I think those are my drawings

I would have guessed you or @addy1 - I don't have the skillzzzzz!

 

[bagsmom]

Thanks for this discussion. As Spring approaches, my optimism about FINALLY finishing my pond begins to return. Having the bog basics discussed again is good review!

 

[Pondfun]

I am building a wetland filter. The size of the wetland is 7' x 12'. I used reinforced milk creates from a MFG. Each single milk create is tested to hold 3,500 lbs of weight so they are plenty strong to support the weight of the stone and gravel. I also reinforced the milk creates with PVC piping as you can see in the photo to even hold more weight. This is the way it will work. There will be a 6 inch 10 foot ABS pipe under the milk creates. The pipe has 1 inch wide x 4 inch long slits on the upper left and right top of the pipe every 5 inches going across the entire length of the 10 foot pipe. The water flow will be from the ponds intake bay using a 4000 GPH pump. The water will go though the (centipede) the pipe, up though the (Aqua Blocks) which are the milk creates. There will be 24 inches of gravel on top of the milk creates. 8 inches of 3 to 6 inch stone, 8 inches of 2 to 3 inch stone and 8 inches of 3/4 to 1 1/2 inch stone. The water will flow though the void space of the milk creates up though all of the 2 feet of gravel than back into the pond via a waterfall or stream. The pond wetland filter water level will be about 9 inches with plants planted in the gravel for better filtration. The cleanout will be the Rubber Maid heavy duty cans that a sump pump could be put down and cleaned out once or twice a year.

I have one question has anybody ever tried to make the wetland filter part of the pond itself so the fish can swim into that section? Most wetland filters are separate from the pond it's self having just a stream or waterfall flowing back into the pond from the wetland filter. The fish cannot enter that section. If the wetland filter is part of the pond the water from the pond will be above the wetland and the fish would be able to swim in and enjoy that part of the pond. The wetland would still function the same way, water will still come though the normal way though the gravel but now coming up and mixing with the pond water which would be 9 inches in depth. The difference would be your fish would be able to swim into that part of the pond because it would be part of the pond? Most ponds that do have wetland filters the fish cannot enter that section because it is higher than the pond it's self or is blocked off. If I was able to do it the other way I would use a water fall going into the wetland area from water from the pond to oxygenate the water flowing up though the wetland. That is just a thought. Has anybody ever tried it that way? Thanks

 

[reef vet]

Hey Pondfun, Do you have any closer photos of how the rubbermaid cans are attached to the distribution pipe?
I'm installing a wetland filter this spring using the milk cartons, but still looking for a good "snorkel" tube option.
Thanks

 

[GBBUDD]

Plastic green sewer pipe or culvert pipe half the cost of snorkels

 

[Pondfun]

Hey Pondfun, Do you have any closer photos of how the rubbermaid cans are attached to the distribution pipe?
I'm installing a wetland filter this spring using the milk cartons, but still looking for a good "snorkel" tube option.
Thanks

I don't have any closer photos but the Rubbermaid cans are double. One inside the other for strength. These cans are the Rubbermaid Rough Neck their called. I used ABS corrugated drain pipe 6". I cut out a 6 1/2 inch circle at the bottom front of the Rubbermaid cans so the corrugated pipe could fit in. Here is another snorkel idea. Click on this link they use ABS pipe for a snorkel. I was going to do it like this for the snorkel but the pipe I had to purchase was 20 feet for a 14 inch or 18 inch ABS pipe and they wanted almost $300 this is the reason I used the Rubbermaid cans. Also on this link they do not use cartons but I wanted to because it was a better idea. But if you use he Rubbermaid cans make sure you double them up so they are strong. Here is another look at the crates.

 

[reef vet]

Thanks Pondfun,
The link isn't showing up for me-
Yes the large ABS seems to be quite pricey, and I don't believe there needs to be any serious structural integrity, so I liked the garbage can idea. I just wasn't 100% sure how you connected to the corrugated pipe. Good to know you just fit it in through a hole.

Had you found any links on guidelines for flow physics? I guess I'm wondering how big the "centipede" pipes actually need to be. They're only serving to distribute the water under the rock, so I really don't see why they need to be as large as the aquascape versions (13" I think).
My pond is a bit large and I'm going to need a wetland of at least 15x20 so I'm considering running 3x8" corrugated x 20' long, spaced every 3' or so. Seems to me that would be sufficient, but as others have used larger diameter I just wonder about the actual physics behind the "centipede" diameter. Obviously it also depends on the GPH through the system, but I feel like most of us are theorizing on how the water is actually being distributed as the pipes are all buried when it's actually operating.
I suppose if one started with the GPH you wanted to run through the system, (based on pond size and desired turnover) through the wetland, you arrive at your pump capacity. But it seems to me, even if you were up in the 8000 GPH size a few 8" pipes would distribute that flow pretty well.

Thanks