The pond dig has begun!

[CountryEscape]

Sissy, I will be adding fish soon, but are you talking about a limescale remover that would be safe for fish after a day or so? I don't want to put anything into the pond that might harm the fish when I get some put in, or the plants that are there now.
And, I assume the bigger the better for the airstones from Big Al's? I'm going to check out their website now! There isn't one near me, but maybe they sell everything on-line anyhow. Never heard of that store before, so anxious to see what they have. Maybe I could find a UV light there!
What is everyone's opinion - if I can't see to the bottom, is it ok to add fish anyhow, or should it be clear first, so I will have an idea if the fish are still living or not? Planning to add fish this weekend unless someone has a reason why I should not. I did not add any bacteria, but could add some of my farm pond water if you think it would help "seed" the pond. It's been up and running for 3 weeks this coming weekend, so figure everything should be growing well by now, but maybe not. Plants will have been in for 2 weeks by this weekend, too.

 

[fishin4cars]

The water does not have to be perfectly clear to add fish. I would add beneficial bacteria supplement to the filter the day you add fish. I wouldn't add pond water to seed it as you really don't know if your adding parasites, or unwanted bacteria to the system. there are several good bacteria start up products on the market now designed for starting a pond. You can also do it the natural way by adding a few cheap fish and a clean filter and monitor ammonia and nitrate levels until the spike and then go back down. IMO, adding start up bacteria is one of the best ways to start a new pond with fish because it gets the correct bacteria started up and the colony grow in relation to the fish load that is started in the pond.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PondCare-EcoFix...840?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b9bf2f00

This is a good product and can be bought directly at most pond stores and pet smart and petco.

 

[CountryEscape]

Wow, I've never heard this, Fishin, so thanks so very much!!! I thought I was supposed to add the beneficial bacteria when I first added the water, so very glad to hear that adding it with the fish is your recommendation. Learning new things every day, and I assume forever! OK, then add fish I will do, and get the bacterial additive from either the pet store or the landscape place. Both have pond items. Thanks!

 

[CometKeith]

Hi Countryescape. Just curious did you check the PH yet? If you have a lot of lime you might have high PH as well because lime makes your water alkaline. You might want to hold off on adding koi until you can get it down to 8.0 PH or so. They don't do well in PH's over 8.5.

 

[fishin4cars]

I'm in agreement with CometKeith, first thing to do is balance the PH, General hardness, carbonate hardenss and phosphates, before adding fish. It's far easier to balance with out fish than with them. You can make the adjustments pretty quick and once they are in balance then you will have even less stress on the fish when adding.

 

[addy1]

I put in fish last year, before knowing my ph, they died poor things, pond was acidic. Been working on the ph and hardness ever since. ph has balanced out, water is still too soft. Agree with fishin it would have been easier to get the water balanced before adding fish.

Five did survive and those five have given me a ton of fry.

Now with a nice group of fish, I am being very slow and careful about what I do to get the hardness up.

 

[CountryEscape]

Thanks everyone. I checked the PH, but only have the low end PH kit (will get a full set of tests today) and it looks to be 7.6 or 7.8. Will take pond water sample in to the local pet shop and have them check everything. Then, planning to buy the beneficial bacteria to add when I add the fish. KH, which is hardness I think, but what I think others have said doesn't matter in the pond, is 5 which shocked me! That was the number I was having difficulty with using my well water for my inside aquariums! It was more like 25-30. Ammonia is as you probably all expect, 0. I will get the other tests kits though, as I said, today, along with the bacteria, and if the PH is too high, will see what they suggest to help lower it. I wonder if the oyster shells will help lower it as well. I just added 3 "knee hi bags" of it yesterday.
I forgot to get the bolts to attach the waterfall weir to my filter box yesterday, so will get that as well today, along with the sealer (which I cannot for the life of me remember what was suggested, and for some stupid reason, did not put it on my "notes" page - UGH!) and have that installed tonight as well.
Let me know if there is anything else I'm forgetting.

 

[addy1]

Sealer like glue? the pl construction tube that is polyurethane works great. pl premium
Or the tube of black roofing sealant made by pl, that also seals.

7.6 7.8 ph is not too high for your fish.

From the net:

Almost all freshwater fish inhabit waters with a pH from 5.0-9.0, with the majority of these inhabiting water with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6-7.5).

The degree of water hardness relates to the amount of dissolved minerals, especially calcium and magnesium, in the water. Water hardness is generally expressed in the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Water hardness is measured in ppm (part per million), kH (carbonate hardness), and dH (degrees of hardness) or gH (general hardness). Water is expressed as soft (having few dissolved minerals) or "hard" (having many dissolved minerals. General levels of water hardness are expressed in the table below (1 dH is equivalent to about 17 ppm).

very soft 0 to 70 ppm 0 to 4 GH (dH)
soft 70 to 135 ppm 4 to 8 GH (dH)
medium hard 135 to 200 ppm 8 to 12 GH(dH)
hard 200 to 350 ppm 12 to 20 GH (dH)
very hard over 350 ppm over 20 GH (dH)

here is a link to the article, nice write up


http://fish.mongabay.com/chemistry.htm

 

[koiguy1969]

aquarium silicone...thats what i used. but any 100% silicone should do. this year i reworked my falls alittle...and used a tube for a "calking gun" of PL brand 100% silicone in black, $4.50 (i think) for a large tube...same price as the small tube of aquarium sealer. make sure to clean those surfaces real good now that you've been running water thru the filter already!...
********I'm sure you know but make sure that you mount your weir nice and level on your filter box, as well*********

 

[CountryEscape]

OK, thanks guys! I will look for 100% silicone, in black, but not sure what PL stands for, or is that the actual name? I know I can find the silicone, and thought that is what you said, but was leery to use anything that might harm the fish. Will turn off the filter and dry everything off VERY well before attaching the weir. Can't wait to see it running!!! Then the filter box will no longer be on an angle, and that is the best part, as everything inside should be filtering better that way as well.

 

[addy1]

pl is the brand name, it works the best for me. I have also used plumbers goop pure silicone. Both are ok for the fish.

Usually in the paint section, at least home depot and lowes.

Take some acetone and clean before attaching the weir will help clean off the slime.

 

[CountryEscape]

Acetone, silicone, bolts, complete pond test kits, beneficial bacteria, pond water to pet store for complete testing .... check! Got my list. LOL

 

[addy1]

lmao you should see our lists for every hd run! ow forget everything and buy what we don't need............

 

[CountryEscape]

OK, since my initial tote I used for DIY filter is leaking at the drain hole, I've purchased a much larger container, 55 gallon garbage container, to use. VERY heavy duty! Attached the waterfall weir this evening, used lots of clear silicone, stainless steel bolts, nuts and lock washers, now waiting for 24 hours before putting it into use. Other filter is still being used, as the leak is very minor, although at any time it could get far worse. Waterfall area is not even started, and this tall container will be dug in somewhat when I get the chance to work on it again. Starting to feel like everything and everyone else needs to be put on hold so I can work on the pond! LOL
Since this container is taller, I'm rethinking how the waterfall will run now, since I have a septic tank straight behind the waterfall area, and cannot go farther to get higher. Maybe I will wrap the waterfall around the edge of the pond, and work up some type of levels that way. So, didn't add the drain to the bottom yet, although that needs to be figured out and done before I add the water, I know.

 

[addy1]

Great job country! Waterfalls look more real when they gradually climb up. Like wrapping like you are saying.