The Hole is Too Big!

j.w

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I leave my liner bare except for the very top step down about 8" where I put rocks on that and then rocks around my pond edge so this all hides the top of the liner. To me it's easier to keep clean.
 

j.w

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Oh and I do have another plant ledge down about 18" but it does not have rocks either, just plant pots.
 
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I might be a glutton for punishment, but I do like the look of rocks...
 
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Hmm... I'd definitely disagree with that opinion. Sounds like he's just never done it. If he's only built koi ponds, it's not that surprising though as many koi pond owners frown on rocking the pond.

There's no need for foam to hold rocks together - a dry stacked wall if built correctly doesn't require any mortar or anything else to hold it together or keep it from ending up in the bottom of the pond. (I'm assuming by "slope" you don't mean 45 degrees - a pond wall should lean backwards just slightly... nothing dramatic.) Check out The Pond Digger on YouTube - he has a whole series for the DIY pond builder. YouTube in general is a great resource for information on pond building.
 
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Thanks Lisa. I watched the series, and he used the foam.
Could you explain how to stack the rocks correctly so they won't slide down?
 
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Dry fit them, going one layer at a time all around where you want them, then checking as you place each rock on top that it’s well fitting, balanced, and steady. If it shifts, try a different angle, or different rock.
 
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He does use foam, but he's one of the few pros I've seen do it. But it's not structural - he's just using it to fill the gaps. Most builders use gravel for that purpose - done correctly it helps lock stones in place. There are other pond builders with YouTube content that show rocking done without foam - The Pond Digger just has this excellent series on the step by step process. I'll see if I can find and post a few other examples.

@JamieB got it exactly right. You need to place each stone so that it's completely stable - no shifting or unstable rocks as you go up. We found that every rock has a natural "flat" side (not truly flat, but a side that is most obviously the bottom). Sometimes you place a rock and then realize it's not quite right - pull it out and try another one. Start with the largest rocks as the very bottom course and gradually get smaller. Like I said, your sides should be dug with a slight backward angle so you can rest your rocks against them as you build upward. Our sons - the youngest was "project manager" at 19 years old, the other two took orders from baby brother! - rocked our entire pond with no experience at all and it's as solid today as it was 8 years ago. My husband's number one rule as they were building was every course had to be stable enough to walk on. Zero movement. They got very good at it very quickly.

Here's a picture of our pond partially filled. The wide shelf at the bottom of the photo is the shelf beneath the waterfall. We wanted that to be wide enough to hold plant pots and still be able to walk on it. That shelf is about 8 inches deep. The wall beneath it is straight up - almost 2.5 feet high. The wall that you can see under the big rock at the middle is built from the bottom up without a shelf - that big rock gets stood on all the time and it's solid as a, well, rock! The area to the right of the big rock is our step out - we can literally climb out of the pond like walking up the steps. It's also an area where the fish can swim right up to the edge. (We thought we would use it as a feeding spot, but quickly learned it's not such a great idea to train your fish to swim up to a spot where they can be easily snatched by predators. Now we let the grandkids or visitors feed the fish there, but our routine feedings get tossed further into the pond to keep them away from the edge while eating. )

Hope this is helpful! Like I said, I'd be cautious about building a pond too deep, but that has more to do with concern about the integrity of the surrounding soil than the ability to rock it safely and securely.



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Thanks Lisa. The dogs and I will be in it. The Pond Digger's wall is only 24" tall and he uses the foam to "help harden it off," whatever that means. The video I posted is Pond Digger and his is the only video I have found on the subject. Most of the koi ponds I visited were rocked, but every single one had multiple shelves. I'm going to have an over liner so maybe the worst that happens is I have to replace rocks now and then...
 
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He has a great wall here but I can't find a video where he built it. He says he mortared the walls to keep them stable and steady. I wonder what he mortared them with...
 
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One thing to consider - he's in California. With the potential for earthquakes, he may feel he needs a bit of extra added security to hold those rocks together. I've never actually heard him discuss it, but that's my guess. (He does a great podcast, too, by the way if you're into listening to those!)

Check out some Aquascape, Atlantis Watergardens, Tussey Landscaping... just a few who have recently started posting great content on YouTube. They don't necessarily break the process down like The Pond Digger does, but you'll never see foam or mortar used in any of their projects.
 
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Thanks Lisa. An earthquake could be devastating! I'll be sure to check them on youtube.
 
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Well, my "friend" lost all interest in the project. I couldn't even get him back to the house to get the boulders off the lawn. He had one excuse after another. I had to hire excavators $200 to move them to the woods bordering the lawn. I was so annoyed about it all I was going to put the project on hold until next summer but when the boulders were finally off the lawn I began to get excited... The excavator is coming tomorrow to give me a quote to finish the digging. I hope it won't be too much, because this isn't an expense I had anticipated.
My question - I'm looking at a used skimmer for sale on Craigslist and I'd like to know - does the size of the weir mouth matter? I'm looking at a Little Giant SK5 and the mouth is only 6.6 inches. It's rated up to 5,000 gph. My pond will be 35x25 x 4ft at the deepest.
 

addy1

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Are you going to have your main pump in the skimmer? My skimmer is just for skimming. My pond pump is separate. I have mine so I can dial it down in flow if I want to. It is plumbed to the main pump via a T. My pump is external.

With the size you have there and a average of 2 feet deep you will have around 13000 gallons. If that is your only pump you may want something a lot bigger, if it is just for skimming I would say it would probably work. My best guess.
 
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Thanks Addy. I'm only planning one one pump, an internal. It will run the water to the other end for a waterfall.
 

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