pond temperature
- Thread starter emperorpenguine
- Start date
very nice cover! How does it handle wind though?
DrCase, I'm wanting to cover mine a)to keep snow out of it, and b)to give the temperature an extra boost since I keep fancy goldfish (orandas, telescopes, ranchu, etc.), which are a bit more delicate than comets/shebunkins/etc.
The pond is partially protected from snow and rain by the roof overhang (water doesn't run into the pond - goes to the drain pipe), and the upper pond section, which will be shut down in the winter, will provide shelter from any cold easterly winds (plus there's a tree and a fence there too). The above-ground portion of the pond will still be exposed to the elements on two sides (south and west).
While our winters here are usually pretty mild (zone 7b/8a), we do get the occasional cold snap, and I don't want to lose my fish if we do. It's also my first pond and will be my first winter with a pond, so I'm a bit of a nervous nellie lol.
DrCase, I'm wanting to cover mine a)to keep snow out of it, and b)to give the temperature an extra boost since I keep fancy goldfish (orandas, telescopes, ranchu, etc.), which are a bit more delicate than comets/shebunkins/etc.
The pond is partially protected from snow and rain by the roof overhang (water doesn't run into the pond - goes to the drain pipe), and the upper pond section, which will be shut down in the winter, will provide shelter from any cold easterly winds (plus there's a tree and a fence there too). The above-ground portion of the pond will still be exposed to the elements on two sides (south and west).
While our winters here are usually pretty mild (zone 7b/8a), we do get the occasional cold snap, and I don't want to lose my fish if we do. It's also my first pond and will be my first winter with a pond, so I'm a bit of a nervous nellie lol.
koiguy1969
GIGGETY-GIGGETY!!
if my fish stayed outdoors... i would cover mine too, try a michigan winter on for size!! we see snow around thanksgiving and up close to easter.
. I installed some underground heat in mine, have not had a chance to try it out yet other than verify its working.
I've had winds up to 65mph with no problems with it.
chilligirl said:
My temps drop just low enougn to get 4" of snow a year. That usally happens once a year. Also my pond temps are right around 55 degrees which is also warming the plastic. Here are places of people I communcate with that use 6 mil poly and I only listed places colder than western Oregon. IN,Colorado, Eastern Ontario, TN, Norway, Montreal Canada, Scranton PA. and Lake George, NY
oldmarine
Married 32 years
Thanks for the great insight on temps in different parts of our great US of A. All of you have hit on some real good concerns and ways to over come them.
My current pond has been in ground since last fall of 2008. I didn't have my water fall in then, just a basic home made filter that was a bit to small to do the job. I learned that during the winter months there isn't much to filter, and my filter did just fine until spring when the fish became more active. I used a 150 watt submersible aquarium heater that worked just fine at keeping the water temps above 40 degrees F most of the time. Now I have a water fall, and a 27 gallon bio filter that sits above ground. So I will be adding a 300 watt submersible aquarium heater to the current heater in my system. The water fall will be turned off, and the filtered water will bypass the the water fall.
Just like last winter, I'm sure I will encounter quite a bit of water evaporation. Water warmer than air always creats evaporation. I will be filling buckets of water every day and letting them sit indoors overnight for the next day.
My current pond has been in ground since last fall of 2008. I didn't have my water fall in then, just a basic home made filter that was a bit to small to do the job. I learned that during the winter months there isn't much to filter, and my filter did just fine until spring when the fish became more active. I used a 150 watt submersible aquarium heater that worked just fine at keeping the water temps above 40 degrees F most of the time. Now I have a water fall, and a 27 gallon bio filter that sits above ground. So I will be adding a 300 watt submersible aquarium heater to the current heater in my system. The water fall will be turned off, and the filtered water will bypass the the water fall.
Just like last winter, I'm sure I will encounter quite a bit of water evaporation. Water warmer than air always creats evaporation. I will be filling buckets of water every day and letting them sit indoors overnight for the next day.
Dodad,
I am not trying to discredit your work, just advise others that might consider this approach in colder climates that 6 mil poly in below freezing temperatures and wind is a bad combination. While I admit I am a pond newbie, my expierance with 6 mil poly is vast. I have enclosed entire buildings with the stuff. However, re-inforced poly will do much much better.(looks like a clear tarp)
I must admit your frame work is impressive btw!
For any others considering this method for winterization, after you hang the poly, you might then want to buy a large roll of shrink wrap and wrap your tent. This will prevent your enclosure from breathing and eventually tearing to shreds. Or you could just use the same material they use to winterize boats.
I am not trying to discredit your work, just advise others that might consider this approach in colder climates that 6 mil poly in below freezing temperatures and wind is a bad combination. While I admit I am a pond newbie, my expierance with 6 mil poly is vast. I have enclosed entire buildings with the stuff. However, re-inforced poly will do much much better.(looks like a clear tarp)
I must admit your frame work is impressive btw!
For any others considering this method for winterization, after you hang the poly, you might then want to buy a large roll of shrink wrap and wrap your tent. This will prevent your enclosure from breathing and eventually tearing to shreds. Or you could just use the same material they use to winterize boats.
nc0gnet0, I must disagree with you or just give my opinion on this subject.
If the framing is sturdy and the 6 mil poly is tight there should be no problem. It's when its flapping in the wind that it tears and shatters.
I would also pad any sharp corners. In mine I only pad the roof peak ends.
In climates that get deep snow I would do a steeper pitched roof or a dome or round hoop roof. One other thing I wouldn't do is nail or screw it down.
They say pictures are worth a thousand words.
If the framing is sturdy and the 6 mil poly is tight there should be no problem. It's when its flapping in the wind that it tears and shatters.
I would also pad any sharp corners. In mine I only pad the roof peak ends.
In climates that get deep snow I would do a steeper pitched roof or a dome or round hoop roof. One other thing I wouldn't do is nail or screw it down.
They say pictures are worth a thousand words.
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koiguy1969
GIGGETY-GIGGETY!!
thats a pretty convincing argument from DODAD!!!
Please! I'm not arguing I'm just stating what I know.
I know the cover in first pic survived 75 mph winds in the windy city and their tree limbs didn't.
I know the cover in first pic survived 75 mph winds in the windy city and their tree limbs didn't.
DoDad,
I'm not trying to be argumentative, sorry if I came across that way. You hit the nail on the head with the sturdy framing and keeping the poly tight. If it has enough slack in it to let it breath (pulsate in and out) it doesn't hold up so well. And getting it set up before the winter winds and cold would be a big plus as well. I have some pretty impressive pictures myself, and some quite humorous in the "what not to do" department.
I help run an Asbestos Abatement company and we set containments up with this stuff all the time. I particularly remember a particular project we had in the winter along the shores of windy Lake Michigan in Holland. We had to contain a whole (literally built a tent around and over the whole structure)) 80 room two story road side inn (fire damage). First attempt by a green crew of guys was well, not good. (Not to mention we had a guy almost go parasailing off the roof inadvertantly). The guys had it secured pretty well but left enough slack in it to allow it to pulsate. A good gust of wind came up and litteraly lifted a section of the roof off its framing lol.
Oh and by the way I know 10 mill poly when I see it (jk). At any rate sorry I cam across the wrong way.
I'm not trying to be argumentative, sorry if I came across that way. You hit the nail on the head with the sturdy framing and keeping the poly tight. If it has enough slack in it to let it breath (pulsate in and out) it doesn't hold up so well. And getting it set up before the winter winds and cold would be a big plus as well. I have some pretty impressive pictures myself, and some quite humorous in the "what not to do" department.
I help run an Asbestos Abatement company and we set containments up with this stuff all the time. I particularly remember a particular project we had in the winter along the shores of windy Lake Michigan in Holland. We had to contain a whole (literally built a tent around and over the whole structure)) 80 room two story road side inn (fire damage). First attempt by a green crew of guys was well, not good. (Not to mention we had a guy almost go parasailing off the roof inadvertantly). The guys had it secured pretty well but left enough slack in it to allow it to pulsate. A good gust of wind came up and litteraly lifted a section of the roof off its framing lol.
Oh and by the way I know 10 mill poly when I see it (jk). At any rate sorry I cam across the wrong way.