Pond Start - Beneficial Bacteria

[koikeepr]

Hi there Phill.

When you buy bacteria in a jar, you need to shut off your UV for about 72 hours.

If you've been running your filter now for five weeks, you should have a largely established colony at this point. Do you have fish in the pond?

 

[philljp]

Hi there Phill.

When you buy bacteria in a jar, you need to shut off your UV for about 72 hours.

If you've been running your filter now for five weeks, you should have a largely established colony at this point. Do you have fish in the pond?

Yes I do. But I have had the UV switched on for those 5 weeks, does that make a difference?

The person in the shop said the UV light in pond filters is such that does not destroy good bacteria.

 

[koikeepr]

You are perfectly fine, do not fret. Developing natural bacteria over time is different than insta-bacteria in a jar.

You are good.

 

[philljp]

ok, thanks for your help. So just carry on like i am then really. Keep the UV light on?

I will also buy a test kit to make sure all the levels are good.

 

[koiguy1969]

phillip........ bottled beneficial bacteria is the exact same naturally occuring bacteria that developes on its own. but when you apply it, its inactive and in liquid so the bacteria needs time to find a surface to call home and colonize on. during this time its suspended in your ponds water and if it travels thru a U.V it can be killed just as a U.V would kill the bacteria in your filter if it was free floating.

 

[koikeepr]

Right. If your bacteria has been active for 5 weeks, it is now clinging to whatever media you have in your filters, etc.

 

[philljp]

ok nice one guys

This maybe a real noob question. But my media is white plastic, does it change colour to signify there is bacteria on it? I know you cant see it with your eyes, just wondered if it would go discoloured. When I looked the other day, it was just white with bits of dirty on.

Finally, when I do a pond refill, with tap water, i put in some dechlorinator, but is there an initial risk of that chlorine killing the bacteria?

 

[koikeepr]

Yes, media will get a bio film on it, which is something like a light tan color and this can take some time to occur.

For the short moment that you are refilling the pond and the dechlor has not been added, this will not harm the bacteria. This beneficial bacteria is actually pretty sturdy stuff and can withstand a lot. Just make sure to continue to do your weekly 20% water changes and your pond inhabitants and bacteria will be very happy.

You are asking good questions.

 

[Squidhead]

Finally, when I do a pond refill, with tap water, i put in some dechlorinator, but is there an initial risk of that chlorine killing the bacteria?

The answer would be yes. If you are adding the water directly to the pond. Even with dechlorinator there is a chance of chlorine exposure to the fish and all bacteria. There are options though. Depending on your set up, if you have an external pump, shut it down while refilling so it doesn't pump the water immediately through the filtration. If you have submersible do the same or if you can, and it's easy, disconnect the plumbing from the pump so it is just circulating water with-in the pond. Dechlorinator works on contact, so it is reasonably an instant "dechlorination". The pump would only be off or disconnected until you are done refilling. You can add the dechlorinator in incremental doses in the stream of refill water, this will also help circulate. Use a quality dechlorinator and you will be fine. Oh try not to let the bio-media dry out durring this operation. If it is to complicated to keep it from drying out, then just don't worry about it. Drying out will be more dangerous then any slight chlorine exposure.

 

[koiguy1969]

any water change under 15% the chlorine levels are so dilute they pose little threat to anything in the pond or filter including bacteria.

 

[Squidhead]

any water change under 15% the chlorine levels are so dilute they pose little threat to anything in the pond or filter including bacteria.

What is considered a safe level of chlorine for Koi in ppm or ppb?

 

[koikeepr]

I am not looking to start an argument, but in my opinion exchanging water at levels under 20% really doesn't qualify as a water change. Perhaps the number is acceptable for someone with a very small pond, but even then I would still go for a 20% change. The idea is to not just provide a small dilution of existing water, but to take a reasonable chunk out so that you truly impact the quality for the better.

Koi and goldfish are big poopers, most folks are over stocked and over feed, and lots of folks typically don't have terrific maintenance regimens. Heck, there are a good number of pond folks that don't even know they should be doing water changes at all! Let's just issue a caveat that unless a pond keeper is as meticulous about pond care as koiguy is (and we know he is fanatical), then the suggested rule of thumb is a minimum of 20% each week.

I can assure you that in the south and areas that are hot, larger water changes during the summer months of even 25%+ are needed to replenish oxygen levels and minerals, remove toxins and crap from water, reduce levels of parasites and bad bacteria, minimize the impact of hot water temps, etc. Significant water changes also aid in fish growth, and many pro breeders will even do multiple water changes of 2 or 3 times in a single week to grow robust fish.

If you're going to go through the effort of a water change, why not just go for the extra 5 or 10% of water? If it's simply being done to avoid the cost of using dechlor (which I still think is a risk unless you are very certain about your municipal water content), then I don't think it's worth it. I understand that dechlor is not cheap, and that even the cost of water in many parts of the nation is not inexpensive. But that's the cost of doing business when owning a pond. And the potential chance of losing a fish due to iffy water quality (particular during the heavy summer months) is just not worth skimping on a few extra gallons of water and dechlor.

It's just my humble opinion, and everyone has a right to do what they want with their pond. Maintenance is critical to the survival of these fish that we have in captured bodies of water. My message is simply to do more, not less. If you notice your fish are not as vibrant and healthy as you'd like--the first thing you should be doing is a water change--of at least 20%.

 

[philljp]

This is a great discussion. I have been concerned ive been doing too much. For example, I moved a plant on the weekend, which disturbed all the soil, and the water went completely cloudy, therefore i did like a 80% water change... However, the fish seemed to enjoy it, and were very inquisitive and seemed a lot more confident afterwards.

So, im also concerned that im going to make my pond too clean! if that is possible.

 

[Squidhead]

I am not looking to start any argument either, it is just a discussion for all to benefit by. I agree that under 20% water change isn't enough. There is just too many disolved organics. Most people go by ammonia, nitrites and nitrates because that is the focus of most discussion.

Phillip, large water changes shouldn't be a problem. With planted aquariums I would do them routinely. Discus keepers and breeders are known to do them almost daily. Eventually that soil would have been filtered or re-settled. I understand your desire for crystal clear water and not wanting to wait though. I have a solution is the occasion occurs again and you are in no need to do a water change at the moment. What I mean is if you just did your maintenance and the next day knocked over a flower pot and it clouded the water. You wouldn't have to change out the water just to get the water clear. You can build a "water polishing filter" and it can remove the fine particles that cloud.

I have only read of people not dechlorinating on pond forums. The whole under 15% thing just didn't seem "right" in respect to just not enough and the exposure to fish and the bio-filter. Here in the US, typically water treatment plants use an average of .5ppm to 3.0ppm of chlorine to disinfect water. It fluctuates upon need by season and weather conditions. If you even only consider the lowest number of .5ppm and do a water change of 10% that would mean that you would have a dilution of .05ppm .From what I remember chlorine is toxic at it's lowest level to Koi at .005ppm and severities of damage increase as the levels increase. That is only chlorine, chloramine can only be removed by activated carbon filtration. It doesn't break down like chlorine and ammonia do seperately. It stays a long time. The only other option is a detoxifier or a dechlorinator, or in this case a dechloraminator.

 

[philljp]

How do you make the water polishing filter? I did a search and it came up with the cheap DIY polishing filter, but does not say how you actually build it.