Pond skimmer

addy1

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I used a pool skimmer, hayward, wide weir, think it is 12-16 inches. Love having the wide opening it really sucks in the debris, esp when the trees are dropping flowers and seeds.
Similar to this:
SP-1085.gif


I coated it with black roofing goop to cover up the white.
 
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I know I am being overly cautious about cutting the liner. But I had a few issues with the pool liner and I do not want to repeat them with the pond liner.
I am from Central Ohio. Between Dayton and Columbus. My plan is shutdown the pond in the winter. I thought that this would be an easy way to shut it down. Removed the skmmer, and BD. Drain down the bio filter and remove the pump. "Done". Spring should be just as easy to open the pond.

I don't know.............I tend to over think things. I just want it to be correct (or as close to correct as possible) the first time.

icewaterdon
 

addy1

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It took me a year to finally cut the liner, the skimmer was installed, but had solid liner over it. Last year, after fighting the maple helicopters, apple blossoms, finally threw in the towel, drained down the pond, about a foot, and cut the liner. So far it is doing great. I tend to over seal.........used the gasket, used goop, used extra screws, gooped every edge, place water could potentially seep between the gasket and the liner. Let it dry for three days before I refilled the pond.
No leaks!

I stuffed the skimmer with bubble wrap to displace the water in preparation for the winter that never really hit. At least the water could not freeze and hurt the skimmer.

That skimmer has been a great help this year, collecting basket after basket of maple seeds.
 

sissy

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your skimmer addy is better than the pond skimmers as it would be harder for fish to get sucked into it
 

pondlover

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I actually bought a pool slimmer with intentions on installing at some point. But since we have no trees nearby I thought I might try one of the inpond skimmers. I'm very nervous about cutting my liner too.
 

sissy

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yep when you cut there is really no safe way to go back in most cases unless you get that underwater glue .
 
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I know I am being overly cautious about cutting the liner. But I had a few issues with the pool liner and I do not want to repeat them with the pond liner.
Me too. I've cut many a liner and never had a problem...but that doesn't mean I won't on the next pond. But more important to me is reuse. If I can I build with the idea that I might redo later, or someone might. Cut a hole for a skimmer, one or two for the drain and the chance of being able to reuse that liner in the future goes down.

Especially when it is so easy, easier that cutting, to install both drains and skimmers without any cutting. Can't say I ever understood the desire to cut liner when doing DIY. It makes sense when buying products because that's your only choice, but not DIY. I rather spend the money on better fish or better fish food.
 

addy1

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The skimmer install, for me, was pretty easy. The main concern was sealing it well enough, which was not that difficult.
 
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Yeah, I have a friend who builds cars from scratch...he says it's pretty easy. Guess it's a relative thing.
 
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OK!
Here is my idea for the plumbing layout of my pond. I will have a skimmer and a bottom drain. Both will be located in the pond. I will have two valves. One will control the flow from the bottom drain and the other from the skimmer. Then to the pump, bio filter, header pond and ultimately back to the main pond. I have a few goals in mind with this set up. No cutting of the liner. Being able to clean the bottom of the pond as often as I like and clear water back to the pond. I am going to build the skippy filter using a 100 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank. It will also have a bottom drain. Of course, the header pond will be for filtering as well.
Any thoughts? Is this too much?
Thanks
icewaterdon

Plumbing layout.jpgPlumbing layout II.jpg
 

addy1

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The check valve on the output side of the pump, is that to stop the water from flowing back down from your header pond? Usually the check valve is on the input side of the pump.

It looks great to me.
 
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I like the check valve where it is. Doesn't matter much but no point pushing stuff back though the pump. And with your set up leaves and sticks coming from the BD can get caught in the flap can cog, so imo better for the check valve after the pump.

No tangential pond returns so the bottom drain won't do much.

Using the pump as suction means grinding up poo and sending that to the bio where it will collect. Better to put a sieve before the pump. Unless you stay on top of it the strainer basket could fill with leaves and make the pump work harder than it needs. Sieve eliminates that issue.

Tricky balancing the 2 valves to get the right suction in both skimmer and BD. No real way to tell how much flow BD is drawing. Half closed valves can collect leaves, sticks, etc., and clog.

If you move the Header pond to pond level or lower it's super easy to make a sieve, just some screen. You never have to clean the skimmer and crap is removed from the water column 24/7, much less crap going to the bio.

Skippy is pretty old technology. Trickle tower or moving bed is 10-30 times more efficient. Both are as easy or easier to build, and cheaper. Both are cleaned 24/7 so you don't need a drain.

No UV?
 

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