Here's what I used. Lowe's and home depot both carry it.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12...remium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12...remium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm
pond building
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sissy
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my project was 2 years ago and cap block still just sitting on top .The stuff lowes had here said for concrete and retaining wall block I do not remember seeing this then and I must have looked at every tube there and read them too .I used loctite products on other things . Have to see if my lowes carries it and they built the home depot here after I did the block .I just never bothered to look again you have a tendency to forget what you see everyday but don't want to see.cap block I avoid looking at here
why didnt you say polyurethane adhesive !! yes that is available in the uk but we wouldnt use it to build with ( it would actually be against building regulationsin the uk) we use it just for general DIY ! woodwork, plastics, model building etc, you would have to pour concrete into the hollow blocks, polyurethane adhesive on its own would not be as strong as solid block and cement, plus the cost of using poly adhesive would be much more expensive than using cement/mortar and for no extra strength ! in my opinion i would more trust a solid block and mortar wall, which is also more financially viable ! and within uk building regulations,
my pond was built on a mild slope, it is ranging between 2 ft and 3.5 ft deep, at the bottom of the slope where i had to build up a retaining wall for thepond 2.5 ft high, i built it with red bricks and cement, only single wall not double, and faced it with 2" timber for decorational purposes, and that easily takes the weight of the water,
ps my house was built in 1934 with red bricks and mortar, and is still to this day structurally sound.
my pond was built on a mild slope, it is ranging between 2 ft and 3.5 ft deep, at the bottom of the slope where i had to build up a retaining wall for thepond 2.5 ft high, i built it with red bricks and cement, only single wall not double, and faced it with 2" timber for decorational purposes, and that easily takes the weight of the water,
ps my house was built in 1934 with red bricks and mortar, and is still to this day structurally sound.
sissy
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can I ask you have you ever seen a pond build like this that has leaked in any way .It fasinates me how these are built
Several people in our koi and watergarden club have raised ponds but most them have epdm liners with no leaks. IMHO all other pond coatings shoul be applied by pros.
sissy
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I would guess so as it looks like a lot of planning goes into something like them .I will stick with my liner easier for me and was not as easy to install as they say but then it says you should have a couple of people to help all I had was me .It was hard enough digging the clay soil but was nice and easy to shape ,so at least that was a help .
I'm just saying that a reinforced glued, rebar and filled wall is stronger than a mortar block wall. You would need a jack hammer to take down my walls if they were just mortared block I could knock it down with a sledge in a very short time.
I see in the UK that they also fiberglass the inside walls of block ponds which we do not here.
I see in the UK that they also fiberglass the inside walls of block ponds which we do not here.
When I read the original post, I immediately wondered what was a "concrete block" in UK. If it was the same as ours, the question was pretty strange.
DoDad, I'm a little old lady, and I can knock down a mortared block wall with a sledge, even though I can't even lift and swing the hammer. I use it like a pendulum. It works, I just have to hit it a lot of times. But it sure gets frustrating when I run into rebar.
I'm building a patio pond that has three rounds of block below ground and two above. Space is really tight, so I'm using 4" wide blocks above ground with normal blocks below.. It's really challenging getting rebar and concrete into those little holes. But anyone in the future who tries to demolish this pond is going to cuss me out.
DoDad, I would like to know why you are using adhesive. Is it just to maintain the position of the blocks until you pour the concrete, or is there more?
DoDad, I'm a little old lady, and I can knock down a mortared block wall with a sledge, even though I can't even lift and swing the hammer. I use it like a pendulum. It works, I just have to hit it a lot of times. But it sure gets frustrating when I run into rebar.
I'm building a patio pond that has three rounds of block below ground and two above. Space is really tight, so I'm using 4" wide blocks above ground with normal blocks below.. It's really challenging getting rebar and concrete into those little holes. But anyone in the future who tries to demolish this pond is going to cuss me out.
DoDad, I would like to know why you are using adhesive. Is it just to maintain the position of the blocks until you pour the concrete, or is there more?
yeah dodad , i wasnt saying what you had done was wrong, and once filled with concrete it would be a strong wall, i just thaught that for a wall thats 2ft above ground level that was a bit overkill, and a block and mortar wall would suffice for what he was building, by uk standards, i didnt know they fibreglassed the walls of ponds here in uk !! this is my first pond and i havent used block, ive been going on my building experience, anyways was good to read and see how you done it , and ime surethe original poster has plenty of info to go on now,
I have some pics of my raised pond on here somewhere way back.. mine is a 2ft high single block wall. like DoDads mine also was on a footing with rebar and block webbing at every coarse.
I only wanted to do it once .I have had no problems with ice
I only wanted to do it once .I have had no problems with ice
stroppy
stroppy
mine is a raised pond but not blocks its made with railway sleepers ... but it was rebar going all the way down the sleepers and into the ground ...
Yes it's to hold the blocks in place while pouring. My concrete was pumped ind and those machines pump with a lot of pressure, If you were filling a short wall yourself you may not need the glue but to be safe I would.
shakaho said:
Just to throw another iron into the fire is it at all possible to use rebars with a solid concrete block?
only if you can drill a hole in each block and align all the holes and drive the rebar through.
In other words no. lol
In other words no. lol
yes butit would be very awkward, as you would have to drill the holes and get them corrasponding with the holes that you drill in the next 2 blocks !
your wall wil only be 2 ft high so you could build your wall first and let the cement harden, then you could purchase or hire a 2 and a half foot drill bit and drill your holes right down from thr top, insert your bar right down and bond it in with either cement or 2 part resin,
your wall wil only be 2 ft high so you could build your wall first and let the cement harden, then you could purchase or hire a 2 and a half foot drill bit and drill your holes right down from thr top, insert your bar right down and bond it in with either cement or 2 part resin,