It's kind of a crazy thing. It's widely believed in pond forums that plants remove nutrients and starve algae creating clear water. People think green water means high nutrient level. But the opposite is normally true. Green water is almost a sure test of zero ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Clear water is almost a sure test of some nitrate level and maybe even ammonia.
Do you have a KH test? It might be helpful to know the KH level in the pond and also of your source water. With a drip water change this is way less important than static water type ponds where knowing KH is very important.
Not exactly sure how your fountains are set up (are they coming out of the wall?)....a small chain can be attached to the out flow. The surface tension of water will cause it to "stick" to the chain and flow over the chain and down into the water. Common trick used on rain gutters as down spouts. Would act as a Trickle Tower type filter to boot. I might be able to offer better ideas with some pictures of the fountains.
As I probably said earlier...You will want to test ammonia like once a day when you do start to remove algae by whatever method. 10% weekly water change probably isn't enough to be your only ammonia controller and some bio will be needed. However that bio could just be the current pond liner, pipes, etc. Testing will give you the answer. The beauty is should you start seeing an ammonia problem you could turn up the drip to 10% per day until the bio gets up to speed. After everything settles down you don't have to test hardly at all.
Do you have a KH test? It might be helpful to know the KH level in the pond and also of your source water. With a drip water change this is way less important than static water type ponds where knowing KH is very important.
Not exactly sure how your fountains are set up (are they coming out of the wall?)....a small chain can be attached to the out flow. The surface tension of water will cause it to "stick" to the chain and flow over the chain and down into the water. Common trick used on rain gutters as down spouts. Would act as a Trickle Tower type filter to boot. I might be able to offer better ideas with some pictures of the fountains.
As I probably said earlier...You will want to test ammonia like once a day when you do start to remove algae by whatever method. 10% weekly water change probably isn't enough to be your only ammonia controller and some bio will be needed. However that bio could just be the current pond liner, pipes, etc. Testing will give you the answer. The beauty is should you start seeing an ammonia problem you could turn up the drip to 10% per day until the bio gets up to speed. After everything settles down you don't have to test hardly at all.