Need help for floating skimmer

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It's actually the reverse. Incoming pipe is low and outgoing pipe is high. Reason being is that when the dirty water comes in with the fish waste, the solids will settle (as they are heavier), so they will sink. And the clean (lighter) water will rise up. So reverse your pipes.

Also, in your incoming pipes, put two 90 degree ell (or sweep) elbows on it so that you start to create a "venturi" effect. In otherwords, the water starts to swirl in a circle so that the settling stuff/crap stays down. The black buklhead on the top is where my outflow pipe is.

Here's a pic of mine to give you an example:

drum_filter_002.jpg


Let me know if this doesn't make sense to you. But crap sinks, clean water floats. Then when you flush your drain at the bottom of the barrel, the crap will easily come out. This is called an "upflow" design. There are also downflow designs (like your pic), but they are not as efficient.
 
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I just keep thinking about everything floating on my pond surface which put me in that train of thought. This is very good and makes sense. I appreciate all of your assistance on this.

It is probably relative but, what is the ideal dimension between the incoming and outgoing? I would think farther the better.

In my case I will most likely be using 4" pipe for all. If I need to reduce the outgoing based upon pump specs that can easily be done outside the barrel.

For the pipes within this barrel would it be acceptable to just dry fit the connections? I could see how you could get a potential debris clog which may require you to pop those off. If not, I could use threaded connectors.
 
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yes, you would not glue the pipes in the barrel together, as you may need to remove them. For example, some folks do not have a bottom drain on the barrel, so they stick a sump pump in the barrel to suck out the muck. Therefore, they need to have ability to remove the piping inside. It's not like you're worried about a leak inside a pump, either.

The photo shows 2" pipe. I've seen 2 and 3" used in a barrel. I am sure someone has used 4" as well. I think that might be a bit much for a 55 gallon drum, tho.
 
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A 55 gal drum might not work as you state so, I'm researching other materials that I could use. I'm drawing out a design and need to know what I should be considering for distance between the input and output.

Also, considering my water level differentiation, my output to my pump must be at the ponds lowest level. As I think this through, I could build a floating intake that adjusts with the water level and could probably do this pretty easy with some special PVC fittings.

Based upon these items that keep popping up I'm wondering if I should be considering a submersible pump instead. How do you pre filter for a submersible pump? Is it still a vortex chamber but, you set the submersible pump on a shelf or something to be above the pond intake pipe?
 

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I cringe at the thought of a subersible in a mud situation. I think it will just create a heap of work.

Are you thinking of sticking your sumbersible in the chamber?

I just think you are better off with an external for your application, personally, but you can certainly do what you wish.
 

DrDave

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Airic said:
A 55 gal drum might not work as you state so, I'm researching other materials that I could use. I'm drawing out a design and need to know what I should be considering for distance between the input and output.

Also, considering my water level differentiation, my output to my pump must be at the ponds lowest level. As I think this through, I could build a floating intake that adjusts with the water level and could probably do this pretty easy with some special PVC fittings.

Based upon these items that keep popping up I'm wondering if I should be considering a submersible pump instead. How do you pre filter for a submersible pump? Is it still a vortex chamber but, you set the submersible pump on a shelf or something to be above the pond intake pipe?

Even though I am not a huge advocate of skimmers, I am interested in building a floating skimmer that removes surface dust, oils, and protiens from the fish. The problem I see, is the drain attachment has to work and not pull it down.

The big advantage is, it can be removed after it's work is done. When we had the big fires here, I had a lot of ash go into my ponds. This would have helped to minimize that buildup.

Do you have any other drawings that detail your plans for the hose?

If you need help with AutoCAD drawings, I can help you there.
 
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Dr Dave, I've got two different plans but, only in my head at this point. I'll get them on paper and post what I come up with. I'm a Visio guy but, can do AutoCAD, just not as good.
 

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