Inherited Pond - Clueless!

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Sorry for a simple question, but what does “cycle” mean?

Pond Cycle or Nitrogen cycle as its otherwise called is the process the water in your pond will undergo as it "stabilizes" - its typically started by ammonia (comes from fish, frogs etc.) that is converted by bacteria to nitrites that are then converted to nitrates. Plants like nitrates and consume those and the cycle once established will be mostly self sustaining...
You typically want "0" Ammonia, "0" Nitrite and close to "0" nitrate to have a healthy ecosystem in your pond.

If you feed your fish too much, you will get more ammonia, which means you need more bacteria (good type) in your filters to help with converting that and you need more filtration in the form of plants etc.

That's my 30s explanation.

Here is the first link i found when i searched with Bing:

and a quick YT video also:

I am sure others on here can help with more info also :) but if you understand this, you can get a pond that is balanced and your fish will be happier.

PS - i ask the silly questions all the time - it's better to ask i have always found :)
 
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I echo everything the big Texan from Houston has been saying. I should have suggested you keep the ribbon and put some back as a bacteria source, but it shouldn't be long before you have your own. The thing with the cycle is that the bacteria always lag/follow the nutrients (ammonia, nitrites) and so if you go too fast, the bacteria can't replicate fast enough to keep your fish safe. So, that's why you don't over feed. I don't remember where you're located but if the temps are still near 50 deg (water temps), you don't need to feed them at all and even then, sparingly or every third day possibly. They'll do fine until you ease the system back into shape.

It is a problem this time of year re plants but you can find some water cress at the food stores and use that, temporarily. It should root in the water. I'd make/buy some sort of net and float the batch, letting the roots develop and help clean your water column. Thing is, the plants are only going to take up the third nutrient, nitrates, which HAS to be converted from nitrites (a denitrifying bacteria's job) and that comes from the ammonia (which a different denitrifying bacteria handles). Other plants you can use around the edges, with roots in the water are creeping jenny, canna, taro, yellow flag iris, blue flag iris, forgetmenots (mine are both in the water floating as well as along the shoreline and doing their thing) and marsh marigold. If you look online, you should be able to get some of these now and get them into your system while you wait for the weather to warm for more hyacinths and water lettuce. I keep the last two in my basement, growing there so I can put them as soon as possible into my pond. My weather has turned wintery here again, so it'll be a while. Now, some of the above plant examples are in my bog and along the pond edge doing exactly what we're suggesting you do; helping maintain the cycle.

Something else you can consider; I put a layer of pea gravel on my pond bottom, which you could also do, as it will increase the surface area for the bacteria colonization. I'd not put it more than a thin layer. I did it to my pond when I got koi as they like to root around looking for food on the bottom and I figured it would keep them away from the lilies more.

If you have ANY part of your old lily tuber, you can probably save it. They're very hardy. Otherwise, keep in mind water lilies are not the best for filtering the water column and they like a lot of fertilizer. But they do add shade which helps in the summer heat.

Keep us appraised to how your pond is doing! And don't get discouraged if you do get green water--that's just algae helping to save your fish! After you get the other plants, the free floating algae will eventually be out-competed. DO keep the algae growth on the sides of your pond and on anything submerged; the fish will nibble on it and it too will help keep your cycle on track.
 
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I have indeed seen ponds without mechanical filtration, pump or waterfall. They do tend to be larger bodies of water, which are easier to sustain once they are in balance. And they do often go through some extensive "green" periods during spring or really hot weather. The fish don't mind it, but the humans often don't find it desirable!
The skeeters looooove um
 
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The pond guy says one to two koi per 200 gallons ... that doesn't even work in a perfectly balanced pond. i don't trust any of these companies as all they want is to sell sell sell. and the pond guy is always number one in any search on you tube or google . I have bought from many companies online but can't say the pond guy ever got any of my business.
 
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I agree with what everyone here has said, and can't add any more to it other than when the water turns green, don't panic. Just let nature take it's course. As to the bog size, I have a pond of about 3000 gallons, and the bog is a plastic 55 gallon barrel cut in half. Water has been clear, and clean since I installed it, and it got established.
 
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Pond Cycle or Nitrogen cycle as its otherwise called is the process the water in your pond will undergo as it "stabilizes" - its typically started by ammonia (comes from fish, frogs etc.) that is converted by bacteria to nitrites that are then converted to nitrates. Plants like nitrates and consume those and the cycle once established will be mostly self sustaining...
You typically want "0" Ammonia, "0" Nitrite and close to "0" nitrate to have a healthy ecosystem in your pond.

If you feed your fish too much, you will get more ammonia, which means you need more bacteria (good type) in your filters to help with converting that and you need more filtration in the form of plants etc.

That's my 30s explanation.

Here is the first link i found when i searched with Bing:

and a quick YT video also:

I am sure others on here can help with more info also :) but if you understand this, you can get a pond that is balanced and your fish will be happier.

PS - i ask the silly questions all the time - it's better to ask i have always found :)
Thanks for the information. So, I'm having an issue with one of my fish (my biggest goldfish!), but it actually started prior to the big cleanout - so I know it's not caused by that. Basically, around 3 weeks ago (over Easter weekend while we were away), our pump broke and the fish were without aerated water for about 2-3 days. We came back from the weekend away and "Big Guy" (our loving name for him) was floating on his side. I thought he passed on, due to low O2, but he was still alive. (Btw, this is what caused us to start the big cleanout in the first place.) So, now it's been 3 weeks and he continues to be sick more often than not. Most days, he is at the bottom of the pond, just lying on his side and will only move and swim around if I nudge him a bit. Then, every few days, he'll seem to recover & I think he's on the mend. I'm not sure how many iterations he can go through of this. A quick google search seems to indicate 'swim bladder' disease - I'm assuming initiated by the lack of aeration when our pump broke. Is it possible for him to recover on his own? What is the best course of action now?
 
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Are you certain that your pond provides enough 02 for all your fish ?

The waters are still cool at least they are here in new england it may be he's just not fully awake yet.
 
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Are you certain that your pond provides enough 02 for all your fish ?

The waters are still cool at least they are here in new england it may be he's just not fully awake yet.
He was fine & swimming around normal before the pump broke. And the other fish are ok. He’s lying on his side & can’t stay straight up & down.
 
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What is the "ribbon"?
I love my no maintenance bog and my water is crystal clear.
Water gets pumped through a PVC pipe that's covered with 12 inches of pea gravel. The PVC pipe has slits cut in it. I made my slits every 1-1/2" apart. The water rises up through the gravel and returns to the pond.
Plants are grown directly in the gravel, no pots.
I made my first post today about my inherited ponds and I’m thinking a bog might be the way to go and your explanation makes perfect sense. Do you have a photo of what it looks like? I’m very much a visual learner!
 
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I made my first post today about my inherited ponds and I’m thinking a bog might be the way to go and your explanation makes perfect sense. Do you have a photo of what it looks like? I’m very much a visual learner!
Here you go...
 

addy1

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Here is a long thread about building bogs. Mine is simple just pvc pipes pea gravel and plants.

 
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Here is a long thread about building bogs. Mine is simple just pvc pipes pea gravel and plants.

I wanted to say thanks for all the info posted for my big build. And yup it’s been a year but I have been working on it as time and life allows. I dug out the bog last fall and laid the liner last week. I am determined but slow… I am going to cut the piping and get it configured in the next couple of days. I have a few pictures and would appreciate it if I could get confirmation that I’m on a good track. I plan on laying pipe in a large rectangle with all the proper hookups. Or should I use a single pipe. The bog is roughly 5’ x3’ and will overflow into the pond.
Thanks again for any help. I just want to be sure I’m doing this right!!
 

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First, it would be good to know; is this a liner pond or preformed? From one pic, it seems like a preform. When you listed the depth at 1', that's alarming in that the pond must freeze up pretty deep in Pa. A good person to also ask would be @poconojoe as he's a neighbor of yours. Typical ponds are more like 18" to a more workable 3-4'. You'll have to watch that it doesn't freeze all the way down. Since you say the previous owner didn't do anything, he probably didn't tell you if the pond ever froze solid. Goldfish are tough and can survive being frozen (not ideal and certainly not 100% proof of survivability).

First thing I'd do is get yourself a kiddie pool large enough to hold enough water and get the goldfish out. This will make taking all the muck out a lot easier. Normally we advise to just run a net slowly along the bottom and fish it out but in your case, I'd just remove the fish and then clean the muck. Seems a lot easier and quicker. I'd fill the kiddie pool with the top layer of your pond water--you want this as the water has cycled.

Now realize, the sides and bottom of your pond have bacteria on them that is valuable--it'll help re-start the nitrogen cycle which may keep you from getting an algae bloom. If you can lift the fish, siphon out the water, clean the muck and then refill in a timely fashion, you can hopefully keep the situation from magnifying. Put the fish in buckets and float them in the new water (which also has the kiddie pool water put back in) and acclimate the fish relative to temp. If you're filling using city water, don't forget the dechlorinator as fish can't handle the chlorine/chloramine that's in municipal water). I'd float for 30 minutes or so. If you're lucky, your new water will be close in temp to the kiddie pool water and you'll not stress them much. Again, goldfish are tough.

With all that said;, ideally you want more depth and can consider replacing the preform with a liner pond in which you'd dig deeper to a better depth. That's one option and the one I'd consider as 12" is just too shallow, imo. It'll work, but there's lots of limitations.

Now, once that is initialized, we can talk filtration. Without even knowing what you have, and it won't matter unless you already have my suggestion, consider creating a bog filter. This can be done before you even do the cleaning described above. A bog, more appropriately called 'upflow wetland filtration', is a structure (or side pond, if you want to dig) that houses at least 12" of gravel (pea gravel; round edged stone) and has pipe buried on the bottom whose supply comes from a pump located in your pond. You could also get an external; just more plumbing. I like the submersibles.

This piping from the pond via the pump sends water to the bottom of your bog where it'll rise up through the gravel and pour back into the pond. This creates a waterfall for aeration (something you want to battle algae and help the fish thrive) and allows all the bacteria colonizing your new bog pea stone to break down the bad elements in your pond water. You'll put plants on top and they take out the third bad element; nitrates. Get yourself some floating plants to place in the pond to go along with what looks like your water lily and you'll be set.

With what looks like your waterfall, you'll have a pump that supplies water to it; it may or many not be strong enough to Y off of so you get that bog feed. If not, get another pump or buy a larger one that will feed both.

With all that said, once you clear the pond of the muck, change out the water, provide excellent filtration (once built, you'll not have to do anything again except thin plants now and then in the top of your bog) as it'll give you water clear enough that now the predators can more easily see your fish. You'll consider a net now as this is the only real way to protect them. Or not; it's your pond but once a heron finds it, the fish won't last.

Okay, lots of info. Any questions, fire away as there's lots of good knowledgeable people here to help. And don't let the above scare you; it seems like a lot but you can knock most of this out in a weekend and you'll reap many years of benefits. Do a search re 'bogs' here and you'll find a lot more info to help you learn about such filtration and if such is something you're interested in.

Welcome to GPF!
good points! In Utah it freezes hard, even at 3 ft deep. I lay a 2x4 across the top in winter, then tie a horse watering trough de-icer (same as I use for the horses water trough in winter) the cord onto the middle of the 2x4, it & it keeps most of it from freezing. Works great. My pond has a thick liner, that’s why I tie the de-icer so the coils don’t touch & possibly melt the liner. I keep the waterfall running all winter as well & it works out great
 
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What is the "ribbon"?
I love my no maintenance bog and my water is crystal clear.
Water gets pumped through a PVC pipe that's covered with 12 inches of pea gravel. The PVC pipe has slits cut in it. I made my slits every 1-1/2" apart. The water rises up through the gravel and returns to the pond.
Plants are grown directly in the gravel, no pots.
What kind of plants? Only thing I can grow in my pond without rotting are water lillies
 
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That is interesting. I didn't realize that aerating plants are a misnomer. I'm happy we have the waterfall to provide the aeration, then. However, I keep getting confused about this issue because this guy seems to think you don't need a pump to have a healthy pond. https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/garden-and-yard/backyard-pond-zm0z15onzmar That being said, the pond he built is significantly larger than mine, so maybe that plays into being able to have enough plants to do the work and his specific design...

Regarding the overgrown waterlily. I had no idea that it was overgrown. Can you tell just by looking at it? I'm also confused about this because I was under the assumption that plant life is good since it takes in the extra nutrients. Wouldn't cutting it down reduce this?
I’m having a helluva time getting my 4 water Lillie’s to grow! Just separated & repotted in clay soil. The old big container they used to be smelt horrible! No wonder they weren’t growing! I hope this helps. I’ve read they like a clay & sand mix so that’s what I’m trying
 

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