yes, where is your pump in this scenario just me? If you're doing an external pump, it will also need to be below water line. This means you will need to also put your pump in a pit next to your filters. You are, in effect, building a filter pit. You can see mine in my 5000g pond build thread.
Equipment Homework
- Thread starter raoke
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Yes, but I can't claim it was for the post. I've been researching for my rebuild for a couple years.DrDave said:
I haven't built one, but The 55 gallon sand and gravel filter I linked earlier is said to provide lots of biological filtration, and that makes sense to me. Nitrifying bacteria will colonize just about anything. All they need is ammonia or nitrite, oxygen, and a place to grow. The flow of water provides the first two, and the media with the most surface area is generally superior, as long as it doesn't clog. Weekly flushes with the blower keep the SG filter from clogging. And things like sand and chicken grit have far more surface area for their volume than, say, bioballs. Hence, 40 gallons of sand makes a serious biofilter.DoDad said:
Ive heard of people using those pool filters and making them Bead filters, IE Doll filling beads???
Otter, those DIY S/G filters are great, but don't forget to mention that a pricey blower is required to clean them out. So, if someone can swing the cost of that, then it is a wonderful DIY project and will create water that is finely cleaned for sure. There is no way to clean it properly, however, without the blower.
Cauze, I am not a fan of turning pool equipment into pond equipment. They function differently in that pool equipment requires much higher pressure to function. Tho, there have been folks that have successfully converted them.
Cauze, I am not a fan of turning pool equipment into pond equipment. They function differently in that pool equipment requires much higher pressure to function. Tho, there have been folks that have successfully converted them.
You can do that, but research bead filters in general first. Many people find them to be more trouble than they're worth.cauzeneffeckt said:
Koikeeper, that's a good point about the blower, but it doesn't have to be expensive. About $70 for a 1 hp spa blower, or maybe half that for a large shop vac. Or am I missing something?
Can we see a picture of the cement pond and the water connection, waterfall etc, so we can help you better?
I do think that's a fair statement, Otter. There are probably cheaper alternatives to the standard $150+ blower. I always toss back and forth the idea of a S/G filter, but the thought of hauling out a shop vac keeps me away. I just don't need the extra work. But, a nice blower sitting on top that you just turn on and blow for a minute is probably the easy way to go if you've got the extra pennies. It sure is nice to have really, really, finely filtered water for those that aim for that level of great quality H2O. If you want gin clear, that's certainly the way to achieve it.
Here's a quick sketch of the pond.
I'm thinking of building a pre-filter/mechanical type basket/static that will be half underground to match the ponds water level. It will be gravity fed via the 2 BD's and the skimmer.
Then a pump will suck water from the drum and send it to a purchased bead filter/bio filter for more bio filtration/water polishing.
Returns will be split up and sent to UV before going out to the two returns and waterfall.
NOTE: The pressurized waterfall line is 1 1/2" line. The length is approximately 20".
There is also one power outlet behind the light post. I think it only has 2 plugs and is a normal 110v household connection.
I'm thinking of building a pre-filter/mechanical type basket/static that will be half underground to match the ponds water level. It will be gravity fed via the 2 BD's and the skimmer.
Then a pump will suck water from the drum and send it to a purchased bead filter/bio filter for more bio filtration/water polishing.
Returns will be split up and sent to UV before going out to the two returns and waterfall.
NOTE: The pressurized waterfall line is 1 1/2" line. The length is approximately 20".
There is also one power outlet behind the light post. I think it only has 2 plugs and is a normal 110v household connection.
Here's another quick sketch of 3 different pre-filters I'm thinking of using.
Most of the one's I've seen are like #2. However, I don't like the idea of all the muck sticking to the outside of the media basket. I'd think it would be easier to trap the muck on the inside to make cleaning easier when the inside basket is removed. So my idea for this is illustrated in #1.
#3 uses the same principles of a small vortex at the bottom and drain manifold up top to help produce the vortex motion. Sitting on a pvc stand will be radial cut fiber media and/or media that can be bagged and layered.
I was thinking of just building the whole filter system with these drums, but I think having one has a prefilter/mech filter and also using a pressurized sand/bead/bio filter will produce water with more clarity. Please correct me if my logic is wrong.
Comments much appreciated!
Most of the one's I've seen are like #2. However, I don't like the idea of all the muck sticking to the outside of the media basket. I'd think it would be easier to trap the muck on the inside to make cleaning easier when the inside basket is removed. So my idea for this is illustrated in #1.
#3 uses the same principles of a small vortex at the bottom and drain manifold up top to help produce the vortex motion. Sitting on a pvc stand will be radial cut fiber media and/or media that can be bagged and layered.
I was thinking of just building the whole filter system with these drums, but I think having one has a prefilter/mech filter and also using a pressurized sand/bead/bio filter will produce water with more clarity. Please correct me if my logic is wrong.
Comments much appreciated!
Here's some questions as I try to make sense of your design:
1) are your "returns" TPR's that are low in the pond?
2) are you just planning the pre-filter and a bead? All beads need pre-filters, but beads are known for being mediocre for bio, so I think you have something missing. Bead filter companies would like to lead you to believe that they are all-in-one units--but a little research will show you that's not the case.
3) I don't see the filtration/pump in the context of yor drawings here, so I can't tell why you consider your waterfall "pressurized."
1) are your "returns" TPR's that are low in the pond?
2) are you just planning the pre-filter and a bead? All beads need pre-filters, but beads are known for being mediocre for bio, so I think you have something missing. Bead filter companies would like to lead you to believe that they are all-in-one units--but a little research will show you that's not the case.
3) I don't see the filtration/pump in the context of yor drawings here, so I can't tell why you consider your waterfall "pressurized."
Not sure what TPR means but the return lines are right below the water surface.
I plan on using a pre-filter AND a bead or some other type of filtration for bio.
The waterfall is pressurized. It was a purchased unit that was cemented into the wall of the pond when the cement was being poured which is why there is a 1 1/2" pvc line for it. It is not the kind that gravity filters use and then cascade into the pond via some sort of lip.
I plan on using a pre-filter AND a bead or some other type of filtration for bio.
The waterfall is pressurized. It was a purchased unit that was cemented into the wall of the pond when the cement was being poured which is why there is a 1 1/2" pvc line for it. It is not the kind that gravity filters use and then cascade into the pond via some sort of lip.
my head hurts already. So, are you saying your filtration is already in place before you got there?