DIY Stock Tank Filter

[koikeepr]

The stock tank was $120, and the light grids were $22, the fittings/pipe were around $10-15, and then the cost of watever media you decide on.

On your pond, you could get away with the 100g stock tank, which I think was $69. If you go with a 55g barrel, those can be gotten for free at car washes (it's what they put car soap in).

 

[3qtkidz]

Found a stock tank across the street at a feed store for $100 but if I want to take a little drive 50 miles I could get it for $69. at a Tractor Supply. Decisions, Decisions.

ok - is the water coming in from the pond at the bottom (swirler) and going out at the top am I correct on this. And all pipes are 2".

I am so ready to get this project going.

 

[koikeepr]

Yes, you are correct. Pond water enters at bottom and clean water exits at top. You would use all 2" pipe, correct!

If you have a submersible and your stock tank is smaller, you can totally get away with 1 1/2" pipe (and it can be flex pipe if you need it to be, but you'd need to get the proper fittings to be able to attach flex pipe. If you go to Lowe's, they sell these fittings in the same area where the sump pumps are.

 

[3qtkidz]

What type of sealant should I use that is save. Just simple caulk. Also, do you use that blue sealant for the PVC pipe.

Thinking about starting to purchase some supplies. Still very nervous about starting this project.

 

[koiguy1969]

i use aquarium sealent when i build filters. ive built four an a $4.00 squeeze tube.

 

[koidaddy]

The trick is to not cut your holes to big. I cut mine slightly smaller with a hole saw then use a rasped drill bit type thing to open just slightly more and thread my fittings into the container with a gasket made from left over 45 mil epdm liner on the inside fitting. 99% leak free so far. The one percent sealed itself up after some use(about 4 hours, it was a very small drip on the side of one of my barrels that I opened up to much). Its not super easy to start the threads but once in they are good to go. My one concern is it might add a little stress to the container from the tight fit but I havn't had an issue yet. I can thread these by hand.

Also on my barrel setup I heated the side up with a heat gun and flattened it with a piece of wood untill it held shape. Now I have a flat surface to mate to instead of a round one.(Just where the drain fittings go)

 

[koikeepr]

I use P&L Roofing and Flashing Sealant. It's in the caulk section of HD/Lowes. It's black, waterproof and fish safe. Around $4 for a large caulk tube.

 

[koiguy1969]

for those of us with hard piping, install lots of fernco rubber coupler fittings and you can equally as easily remove all the components. In the winter my entire piping system can be completely drained of water and I can put my pump away should I choose to do so.

i only have to undo one clamp at the filters inlet, pull the hose off and pull the pump and hose out of the pond..you could not do this if your filter was buried at pondside. with this design on a buried filter you would have to dig it up to fix any leaks... like i said ..this (yours) is a good design for remote locating the filter like you are,but not for a buried pondside install.(especially with a submersable pump) this is my total winter prep for my filter...undo one inlet clamp and remove the pump and hose as one unit, open my flush valve...done! not to mention you cant locate your flush valve on the bottom like that and bury it like mine. but again its real good for remote locating

 

[Squidhead]

KoiKeeper - Thanks again for coming out and giving me great advise and basically designing my filtration system for me. I forgot what you said on how many feet I would need of the strapping material. By the way TSR has 1 - 150Gallon tanks in stock and 15 - 100G. They are both 25" in Height. I wish I had a few more hours today to get this done.

 

[koikeepr]

No sweat Squid! You are on the right path. Yes, I saw that on the rubbermaid, too. 25".

Since you are going to be doing bio and mechanical on the tank, you'll need a layer of mats first and then the strapping on top. I highly recomment Matala mats, and you will be able to get them in the size to cut to the stock tank and lay them on top of the light grid. They are a tad pricey, but they last for eons, so it's an investment. I would use a green and black matala laid one on top of the other, and then the strapping on top of that for bio. My best guess is that 1500 feet might be enough based on the fact you need mats/sponges down first.

PM DODad on the matala, he'll get a better price than what you see online. Give him the inside dimensions of the stock tank and see what fits in there in one piece or at least two halves. A half sheet of matala might be enough. to fit in. You want to cut it perfectly to fit the stock tank body inside so that the poop will stay down while the clean water rises. And matala has nice density to fit tightly in place.

I have a 2 1/2" hole saw bit that you can borrow to do your holes in the tank. Those darned things are pricey at Lowes!

Just go slowly and think everything through. Heights of things such as waterline and such is going to be important to match everything up properly. Height of your streambed in relation to your pond, height of stock tank on waterline, etc. I think with your streambed, you can just put more angle on it perhaps so it heads more steeply into the pond (raise it up a bit on the farthest part where your waterfall will help. You don't want that pond water backtracking into your streambed.

You've got a good scenario there to use gravity, without having to do a filter pit due to the way your property slopes away from the pond. Lucky you! If you go with a BD (retro or regular), you can take advantage of that graviity flow. Of course, you don't have to do a BD at all. You just need to decide what is best for your situation.

You also need to think about that run-off you will have from your neighbors yard that is higher than yours. You can do something with the corrugated pipe you mentioned, but thinking about it, I would also do something with short barrier to ensure water is going down your slope. Some kinda landscape edging that you can buy at lowes to ensure your neighbors run off doesn't come over the pond.

Oh, and I have that quart of liner prep liquid you can use when it comes time to doing your streambed seam. I've got more than I will ever need to use in a lifetime.

Keep digging!

 

[3qtkidz]

ok - I do not really understand about the head height. My pond is 3 feet deep and we were just going to bury pvc pipe and go straight to the filter - (so are you saying I should not bury the line level and then plumb up to the filter.)
I do not have any typle of stream or bog (I wish). My main goal is doing the CORRECT the first time. You guys/ladies make it seem so easy.
PM'ing Do Dad about the Matala filter pads also.

 

[3qtkidz]

I have more questions:

If I am going to install a UV - and I need to have a ball valve t0 slow the water down - where does the UV go? before going in the filter or going out of the filter.

My pond is in direct total sunlight ALL day long. I don't think it would be wise for me not to have a UV light.

 

[koiguy1969]

i use a u.v light for about a week or so a year.. i intentionally let the pond start to green up, turn on my u.v it clears up the pond in a couple days, i run it a few extra days turn it off and even remove it from the system, and put it away... i only use a terapond 9 watt u.v. if your filters doing its job and your pond is planted adequately... thats all you need! good luck with your filter build...dont overthink things..

 

[koikeepr]

Where the UV goes is dependent on your filtration set up. You want it after the filter, and hopefully in a spot where you can slow the water down without ill effect. If you are going to be in sun all day, you will likely need the effects of a UV.

You can bury your pipe line, yes. If you could do a drawing of what you're thinking about with your filtration, it will help us help you.

 

[koiguy1969]

My u.v is inline before my filter...pump to u.v to filter & back to pond