IMO, I'd use some sort of plastic resin as then, it would be both durable and waterproof. Cement (as defined in a post by myself above) is waterproof, mortar is not. Cement (the terms 'cement' and 'mortar' are being used here as found in a builder's supply yard) would be the better but I'd use some sort of reinforcement like a wire frame laid inside the mold, just to help with the integrity. Mortar is softer, hence why they use it when laying brick. Trying to take apart a wall where cement was used between the brick will try your sanity. Cement as my father used is green when wet, mortar is gray. Cement dries whiter, mortar gray.
FYI, when doing flatwork (sidewalks, driveways, basement/garage floors), concrete is used. Concrete = aggregate + cement. When doing grout/waterproofing/more durable joints, use cement with sharp sand (not play/beach sand--it's too soft and you want the sharper edges for better bonding). When doing brickwork as in walls, you use mortar. If doing pavers, you use cement, though most use the dry-lock method these days. I think most garden statuary is cast using cement but am not going to research to confirm that. Bottom line is, mortar will disintegrate in time if exposed to water. When building a chimney, mortar is used between brick/brick courses but the top is capped with a cement 'wash', or stone with cement joints and the cement wash. Even then, cracking will occur and a flexible caulk/tar-like material is used when it does. And it always does as chimneys expand and contract too much for the cement joints to completely hold. Sorry, got into a bit of a ramble re 'mason days'.
And though it looks like WB has moved on to other pastures, should there be any blowback here, I'll not engage. I think having a father as a bricklayer should give me credentials enough.
Michael