Wetland Pond Under-gravel Filtration

[GBBUDD]

One other idea for you that i did with my main drain i placed aqua block panel on a spacer and lifted the panel up off the floor and over the main drain this way a thin layer of stone was placed over the panel and as the fish forage across the bottom they move the gravel thus no dead spots and the debris falls and gets pulled into the drain.

 

[Clayton]

I'm really interested in seeing how this pond turns out! Good luck!

WOW! Not only do you have a beautiful pond but your Photography is exquisite! Thank you for sharing!

 

[Clayton]

Instead of all your pipes i would have the bottom like a funnel not flat but everything pitched toward the center or trench.

Is this to be a swim pond?

GBGUD - My wife and I have decided to have a lot of fun with this pond. We plan on putting Ship Wrecks, submarines, mermaids, and other fun stuff sunk down in the pond so our Grand kids can snorkel, look at the fish, and all of us can cool off. So being a "Swim Pond" could be a small identification.

 

[Clayton]

One other idea for you that i did with my main drain i placed aqua block panel on a spacer and lifted the panel up off the floor and over the main drain this way a thin layer of stone was placed over the panel and as the fish forage across the bottom they move the gravel thus no dead spots and the debris falls and gets pulled into the drain.

GBGUD - That was kind of my idea for the bottom of my pond. My plan was to put plastic pallets on the bottom of the pond with the 3/8 rock on top of them thus creating space where the sediments could drop onto the bottom and not be hindered to the suction. If I slightly angle the bottom of the pond, in two places, I think I could get away with two pipes, perfed, and ran along the length for suction and trying to eliminate any dead spots of water. Great ideas!

 

[combatwombat]

@Clayton: How's the pond coming along? What did you decide to do at the bottom of the pond?

 

[Pondfun]

I am building a wetland filter. The size of the wetland is 7' x 12'. I used reinforced milk creates from a MFG. Each single milk create is tested to hold 3,500 lbs of weight so they are plenty strong to support the weight of the stone and gravel. I also reinforced the milk creates with PVC piping as you can see in the photo to even hold more weight. This is the way it will work. There will be a 6 inch 10 foot ABS pipe under the milk creates. The pipe has 1 inch wide x 4 inch long slits on the upper left and right top of the pipe every 5 inches going across the entire length of the 10 foot pipe. The water flow will be from the ponds intake bay using a 4000 GPH pump. The water will go though the (centipede) the pipe, up though the (Aqua Blocks) which are the milk creates. There will be 24 inches of gravel on top of the milk creates. 8 inches of 3 to 6 inch stone, 8 inches of 2 to 3 inch stone and 8 inches of 3/4 to 1 1/2 inch stone. The water will flow though the void space of the milk creates up though all of the 2 feet of gravel than back into the pond via a waterfall or stream. The pond wetland filter water level will be about 9 inches with plants planted in the gravel for better filtration. The cleanout will be the Rubber Maid heavy duty cans that a sump pump could be put down and cleaned out once or twice a year.

I have one question has anybody ever tried to make the wetland filter part of the pond itself so the fish can swim into that section? Most wetland filters are separate from the pond it's self having just a stream or waterfall flowing back into the pond from the wetland filter. The fish cannot enter that section. If the wetland filter is part of the pond the water from the pond will be above the wetland and the fish would be able to swim in and enjoy that part of the pond. The wetland would still function the same way, water will still come though the normal way though the gravel but now coming up and mixing with the pond water which would be 9 inches in depth. The difference would be your fish would be able to swim into that part of the pond because it would be part of the pond? Most ponds that do have wetland filters the fish cannot enter that section because it is higher than the pond it's self or is blocked off. If I was able to do it the other way I would use a water fall going into the wetland area from water from the pond to oxygenate the water flowing up though the wetland. That is just a thought. Has anybody ever tried it that way? Thanks

 

[GBBUDD]

Don't know how i missed this one. Looks really good ! When you place the milk crates upside down like your showing what ae you doing to help prevent that they don't cut into the liner all that stone and weight on edges of milk crates could be an issue. aquascapes does sell what looks like two of the long pannels off set from each other they are made to disperse the weights.

I know one member here has a Pump vault that is clearly stronger plastics then is trash cans and over the years the pump vault is failing and it is also vey short. they also sell a double walled culvert pipe in all sizes and shapes that will never fail as they are made for being buried.

Should be an interesting build as your off to a great start.

 

[Pondfun]

Don't know how i missed this one. Looks really good ! When you place the milk crates upside down like your showing what ae you doing to help prevent that they don't cut into the liner all that stone and weight on edges of milk crates could be an issue. aquascapes does sell what looks like two of the long pannels off set from each other they are made to disperse the weights.

I know one member here has a Pump vault that is clearly stronger plastics then is trash cans and over the years the pump vault is failing and it is also vey short. they also sell a double walled culvert pipe in all sizes and shapes that will never fail as they are made for being buried.

Should be an interesting build as your off to a great start.

I will be using many layers of underlayment's under the milk creates so not to damage the fish pond liner. The rubber maid trash cans I used before they are very strong. Years ago I filled one up with water and let it freeze when winter temps were below zero. The cans do not crack or break. The good thing about the cans they expand in the cold and will not freeze crack. I tried to get 4 foot pipe 12 inch to 18 inch culvert pipe but they wanted me to purchase 20 foot lengths which was a lot of money so I still have time to look around for a cut off if I can find one. Anyway thanks for your reply

 

[GBBUDD]

I will be using many layers of underlayment's under the milk creates so not to damage the fish pond liner. The rubber maid trash cans I used before they are very strong. Years ago I filled one up with water and let it freeze when winter temps were below zero. The cans do not crack or break. The good thing about the cans they expand in the cold and will not freeze crack. I tried to get 4 foot pipe 12 inch to 18 inch culvert pipe but they wanted me to purchase 20 foot lengths which was a lot of money so I still have time to look around for a cut off if I can find one. Anyway thanks for your reply

Thats true your main stores want to sell only 20' but you can find all kinds on ebay as they had no choice but to buy the 20' and have left over and try to recoup the money . Take my word for it i understand rubber maid trash barrels they are very strong but more so from the inside out not outside in. Many many a home and project ended up in those barrels. " general contractor "

 

[GBBUDD]

There is also a sheet called azek it's plastic made from milk cartons. its available in 1/4" through 3/4" but it is brittle very strong when it's backed up In other words if the soil is compacted properly you could round the edges with a router and then set the milk crates on it i used it to place against soil with my cistern and the fabric rubber and more fabric but i also order 8 oz fabric and not the 4oz they sell they do have 10 12 and 16 oz very tough stuff. you can see the cistern at the end of my build in the link below

 

[combatwombat]

@Pondfun: You can check out my build thread. I originally planned to have my wetland at one end of the pond, separated and waterfalling back into the pond. I am now considering putting it at the other end (lower elevation) where water level in the wetland would be continuous with water level in the pond.

Primary thoughts on that:

1. Function-wise, shouldn't be an issue. At least I can't see a reason why it wouldn't function.
2. You'll still need a solid wall—earthen or otherwise— to separate the pond from the bog, otherwise your water will not percolate up through the gravel. It will just migrate horizontally into the pond.
3. Watch your water level. Part of the wetland system is the plants that eat the nitrogen that results from the gravel filtration process. Water level in a bog is usually quite low—just a few inches or even less. I suppose that doesn't matter all too much as long as you choose high-nitrogen consuming plants that will tolerate the depth you choose. Plants don't all have to live in the bog, either, I suppose. But I imagine there's a reason water level is kept quite low in most bogs.
4. Obviously you'll have to find another way to oxygenate since you won't get the waterfall from the elevated bog.

As for the culvert pipe, I found the best price on mine at a local logging supply store. When the manufacturer delivers a truckload of the stuff to a yard, they often use 2-3' sections of the stuff to strap it in and protect it in transit. It's just garbage to them. See if they have any of those and maybe offer a few bucks to save them some dumpster space. My supply yard had a dumpster full of them. I could have had as many as I wanted for free.

Good luck. Can't wait to see the pond.

 

[Pondfun]

@Pondfun: You can check out my build thread. I originally planned to have my wetland at one end of the pond, separated and waterfalling back into the pond. I am now considering putting it at the other end (lower elevation) where water level in the wetland would be continuous with water level in the pond.

Primary thoughts on that:

1. Function-wise, shouldn't be an issue. At least I can't see a reason why it wouldn't function.
2. You'll still need a solid wall—earthen or otherwise— to separate the pond from the bog, otherwise your water will not percolate up through the gravel. It will just migrate horizontally into the pond.
3. Watch your water level. Part of the wetland system is the plants that eat the nitrogen that results from the gravel filtration process. Water level in a bog is usually quite low—just a few inches or even less. I suppose that doesn't matter all too much as long as you choose high-nitrogen consuming plants that will tolerate the depth you choose. Plants don't all have to live in the bog, either, I suppose. But I imagine there's a reason water level is kept quite low in most bogs.
4. Obviously you'll have to find another way to oxygenate since you won't get the waterfall from the elevated bog.

As for the culvert pipe, I found the best price on mine at a local logging supply store. When the manufacturer delivers a truckload of the stuff to a yard, they often use 2-3' sections of the stuff to strap it in and protect it in transit. It's just garbage to them. See if they have any of those and maybe offer a few bucks to save them some dumpster space. My supply yard had a dumpster full of them. I could have had as many as I wanted for free.

Good luck. Can't wait to see the pond.

Thanks for your input.