Look it as learning and it's a lot less frustrating.
For what it's worth here's how I've come to build streams and waterfalls...
Fig 1. Lay the liner.
Fig 2. Run the water to see what's what. Make adjustments as needed.
Fig 3. Water off and lay the rock in a bed of mortar to keep water above the rock. This is only in the water course, so I can still see the liner all the way around the entire edge except where it dumps into the pond.
Or just mortar, no rock, but you'd still want some ripples so you kind of make fake rocks out of the mortar. This is easiest. Later when water is flowing over the mortar you won't be able to tell the difference. No reason to even color the mortar as it will soon be covered with living organisms.
Fig 4. Run the water and see what's what. Adjust as needed. If you just did mortar in Fig 3 you can now mortar rocks around the edges of the flowing water. Mortar these rocks on top of the previous mortar bed. Start at the top (upstream) and work downstream. Because this is done with the water running, and because you've started at the top, you can see problems right away. Because there's liner at the edges you can adjust if needed.
Note In this phase you only build out the edges in the water course, not the outside edges.
Fig 5. When you're happy you have no leaks you can lay rock for outside edges. Mortar here is optional. I like mortar because it keeps everything in place despite being walked on, etc.
Note that I push the liner at the edges up, like a vertical wall type pucker, flush to the top of the water course rocks. Rocks on the outside edge lay against that pucker and a final cap rock covers that narrow vertical liner pucker.
The outside edge doesn't have to be rocks. It can be soil and or a combination of rocks and plant pockets.
In a perfect world the cap rock is cantilevered over the rocks in the water course, not touching. Rocks that touch can wick water. This cantilevering isn't always possible, but a single small rock under that cap rock (in red above on left) can still leave a gap (void) and stop wicking. Point is, many people like to "seal" stuff. But in most cases what they actually do is create a place for wicking. This whole "sealing" thing is almost always delusional, just wishful thinking.
Later on, if you develop a leak because of settling you only have to remove the cap rocks to see that narrow width of puckered liner to see if the problem is along an edge.
An important side effect is you're having to walk on the surround soil, liner, etc., which will expose loose soil that could later be a settling problem. You want a good foundation of compacted soil. In higher end ponds this is done with actual concrete foundations but in most cases, for small features using liner this expense is a bit much.
There's more detail type stuff, but that's the basic way I approach waterfalls and streams.
The deeper you make the water channel the easier the build, but the less natural the result in most cases.
And of course always a gap where liner overlaps.
Same type of gap done with the cantilevered cap rock on the sides of the stream/falls. Gap = good, sealed = bad.