btw should i be cleaning the filter pads regularly? aquascape manual says once a year.
stuck in green stage?
- Thread starter micaaronfl76
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koiguy1969
GIGGETY-GIGGETY!!
i have a Tetrapond 9 watt U.V and it should handle clearing your ponds volume in a few days..no problem. 1900 gph is maximum flow rate for your U.V but i think its way to much...you want to give the water flowing the U.V sufficient exposure time...1000 gph thru the U.V seems to be a real good flo rate. i used to have a 450 gal pond that i used it on, and with a 1000 gph pump...used the same setup with my 1200gph pond...cleared either one in just a few days...500 - 700 gph is likely an optimum level in a smaller pond like yours. but like i said 1000 gph is what i used, had great results, with the same U.V.... good luck.
koiguy thats good to hear it cleared the pond yeah im pushing 600 gph through the tetra.
That still doesn't make sense to me. I can understand "pumps up to 1900 GPH" or "ponds up to 1900 gallons" but "ponds up to 1900 GPH" makes zero sense.
I have no idea what model filter you have, but when I look at the Tetra UVC-9 on a few retail sites they say the UVC-9 GreenFree from Tetra is for a max pond size of 1800 gals and a max flow rate of 900 GPH. But this for running as a "clarifier" meaning best case, like if the water is already clear. To run as a "sterilizer" the flow has to be decreased. For example, the greener water is the less the UV rays can penetrate and so the longer the water should stay in the filter which means slowing the flow.
So your 600 GPH should be OK if the water was already clear, or not very green...but it isn't working...so turn down the flow. I'd be more in the 300 GPH range and if that didn't work I'd be down to 100 GPH. After that I'd return the unit.
Either that or the money spent on the unit is wasted and you can start trying the dozens of "this might work, maybe" solutions.
No. In theory it may increase because the single cell green water algae produces a chemical which kills macro algae. So when the water clears there will be less of the inhibiting chemical.
The macro algae on the rocks also produce a chemical which kills the single cell algae, there is also a bacteria that produces another chemical that kills single cell algae. The macro algae and/or bacteria may get the upper hand at some point and clear your pond even without the UV. But impossible to predict. In many cases after a UV clears a pond the macro algae and/or bacteria produces enough chemical to kill any new single cell algae and the UV can be turned off and the pond will stay clear for years without UV.
koiguy1969
GIGGETY-GIGGETY!!
actually..the UVC9 IS rated for pumps of 325gph up to 1900 GPH max flo. and 1000 gal up to 1500 gal ponds..its the one i have, & thats what my box says...
@micaaronfl76 - Could you please fill in your profile so we have some information about where you live? Your temperature swings sound very much like what I've been seeing over the past month. We've been up into the 90's, then had a freeze warning a couple days later. It's just been nuts!
Yes, these rapid temperature changes are very hard on plants like the hyacinths and water lettuce. Both of those plants require the water temperature to stay solidly above 50 degrees, and generally do not show much growth until the temperatures are above the mid-60's. However once your water is warm enough, they will definitely grow like a weed. As your floating plants (including the lilies) continue to grow, they will shade the water and help control the other forms of algae that you will get -- but keep in mind that having *some* algae on the rocks and walls is a good thing, because it provides extra food for your fish and other forms of life that will eventually grow in your pond.
@waterbug - concerning the mixed verbage on the UV filter box... sounds to me like the typical packaging of Chinese products. The more technical terms that are thrown in, the less likely it is that they get the proper translation to make any sense to those of us who understand what the terms are supposed to mean. I've seen the same type of jumbled terminology on computer products.
Yes, these rapid temperature changes are very hard on plants like the hyacinths and water lettuce. Both of those plants require the water temperature to stay solidly above 50 degrees, and generally do not show much growth until the temperatures are above the mid-60's. However once your water is warm enough, they will definitely grow like a weed. As your floating plants (including the lilies) continue to grow, they will shade the water and help control the other forms of algae that you will get -- but keep in mind that having *some* algae on the rocks and walls is a good thing, because it provides extra food for your fish and other forms of life that will eventually grow in your pond.
@waterbug - concerning the mixed verbage on the UV filter box... sounds to me like the typical packaging of Chinese products. The more technical terms that are thrown in, the less likely it is that they get the proper translation to make any sense to those of us who understand what the terms are supposed to mean. I've seen the same type of jumbled terminology on computer products.
shdrdrg, thanks updated profile i am around philly pa.
do u think i should wait to get the ball valve for a few days and let the uv light run as is? also for the filter question should i be cleaning it daily?
koiguy1969
GIGGETY-GIGGETY!!
if the pads arent clogging there isnt a need for cleaning... and clean them in pond water when you do. so any bacteria on them isnt killed off by the chlorine and or chloramines in tap water...that is if your using city water.
will do thanks koi guy
I agree 100%. I don't blame the Chinese however, it's ourselves. People want simple more than they want something that works. Explain a product and lose consumers.
I saw this first hand back I few years when I was selling a pond vacuum. I'd sell a few a week, every week like clockwork. Then I added a bunch of info to the web site explaining how it worked, which ponds and conditions it was for, etc, Sales stopped. 4 weeks and zero sales. Went back to the old site and sales went right back to a couple a week. I stopped selling them altogether because I don't think hardly anyone was actually using them. I think they were just wasting their money and that wasn't something I was comfortable with.
brandonsdad02
They call me Ryan
You are fine with the UV light. Its the same one I got for my 3500 gallon pond. I got 2 of them and placed them in my skimmer box. I have a thread in the DIY section for my UV light build. It took nine days using the UV light and quilt batting to clear my pond.
i dont want to go off topic but if u look at my video, the pond liner around the edge of my pond do u guys have any suggestions on how to cover it. i dont want to bring the water level up because it is up against the house and on the one side the perrenials should cover most in a year or two, but for the left hand side with the annuals any idea on a way to cover it so it looks good in the summer and winter?
callingcolleen1
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Pea green water is called an alge bloom. This happens for many reasons. First your pond is not balanced and that is the first problem. Balancing your pond takes time. If you have a UV light it might be broke. The bulbs are expensive and they only last a short while. I have not had alge bloom for well over 20 years. I have worked with other ponds that have. FIRST get rid of the UV light, waste of time and money. UV lights do not address the main problem and you may be able to get rid of pea green water but you will then get string alge instead. If your stream flows too slow over shallow water it will heat the water instead of cooling it. Plant lots of sedges (water iris and grasses, cattails and rushes) these plants are best for removing the excess nitrates and nitrites. Sedges can be rooted in small clumps in the stream too.
Add beneficial bacteria. Bacteria is the most powerful thing for your pond but it takes time, months to get established. In the mean time you must ensure that you have lots of good water flow and filtration. you can get pond products that help bind the pea green water together so that it may be picked up better in the filter. During this time clean your filters daily if necessary as your filters will become plugged from the pea green age.
Don't take your pond apart and change all the water. This will defeat the purpose of balancing your pond and you will have to restart the process again. Winter your pond like I do and then next year you should have no problems. Wintering your pond can be done in any climate you just have to know how. Choose harty plants that winter well and grow fast in the spring like sedges (anything with a spear shaped leaf)These plants are best for cleaning (lillys are very very poor cleaners. Take a page out if nature and find some good aquatic bugs like leeches, water striders and snails. These well help your pond digest the waste properly and ensure that you won't get the "garbage can" effect instead. In the mean time get your own test kit for ammonia of look for signs such as yellowing plants.
Good luck!
Add beneficial bacteria. Bacteria is the most powerful thing for your pond but it takes time, months to get established. In the mean time you must ensure that you have lots of good water flow and filtration. you can get pond products that help bind the pea green water together so that it may be picked up better in the filter. During this time clean your filters daily if necessary as your filters will become plugged from the pea green age.
Don't take your pond apart and change all the water. This will defeat the purpose of balancing your pond and you will have to restart the process again. Winter your pond like I do and then next year you should have no problems. Wintering your pond can be done in any climate you just have to know how. Choose harty plants that winter well and grow fast in the spring like sedges (anything with a spear shaped leaf)These plants are best for cleaning (lillys are very very poor cleaners. Take a page out if nature and find some good aquatic bugs like leeches, water striders and snails. These well help your pond digest the waste properly and ensure that you won't get the "garbage can" effect instead. In the mean time get your own test kit for ammonia of look for signs such as yellowing plants.
Good luck!
callingcolleen1
mad hatter
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Pea green water is called an alge bloom. This happens for many reasons. First your pond is not balanced and that is the first problem. Balancing your pond takes time. If you have a UV light it might be broke. The bulbs are expensive and they only last a short while. I have not had alge bloom for well over 20 years. I have worked with other ponds that have. FIRST get rid of the UV light, waste of time and money. UV lights do not address the main problem and you may be able to get rid of pea green water but you will then get string alge instead. If your stream flows too slow over shallow water it will heat the water instead of cooling it. Plant lots of sedges (water iris and grasses, cattails and rushes) these plants are best for removing the excess nitrates and nitrites. Sedges can be rooted in small clumps in the stream too.
Add beneficial bacteria. Bacteria is the most powerful thing for your pond but it takes time, months to get established. In the mean time you must ensure that you have lots of good water flow and filtration. you can get pond products that help bind the pea green water together so that it may be picked up better in the filter. During this time clean your filters daily if necessary as your filters will become plugged from the pea green age.
Don't take your pond apart and change all the water. This will defeat the purpose of balancing your pond and you will have to restart the process again. Winter your pond like I do and then next year you should have no problems. Wintering your pond can be done in any climate you just have to know how. Get plants that winter well and grow fast in the spring like sedges (anything with a spear shaped leaf) These plants are best for cleaning (lillys are very, very poor cleaners. Take a page out if nature and find some good aquatic bugs like leeches, water striders and snails. These well help your pond digest the waste properly and ensure that you won't get the "garbage can" effect instead. In the mean time get your own test kit for ammonia or look for signs such as yellowing plants.
Good luck!
Add beneficial bacteria. Bacteria is the most powerful thing for your pond but it takes time, months to get established. In the mean time you must ensure that you have lots of good water flow and filtration. you can get pond products that help bind the pea green water together so that it may be picked up better in the filter. During this time clean your filters daily if necessary as your filters will become plugged from the pea green age.
Don't take your pond apart and change all the water. This will defeat the purpose of balancing your pond and you will have to restart the process again. Winter your pond like I do and then next year you should have no problems. Wintering your pond can be done in any climate you just have to know how. Get plants that winter well and grow fast in the spring like sedges (anything with a spear shaped leaf) These plants are best for cleaning (lillys are very, very poor cleaners. Take a page out if nature and find some good aquatic bugs like leeches, water striders and snails. These well help your pond digest the waste properly and ensure that you won't get the "garbage can" effect instead. In the mean time get your own test kit for ammonia or look for signs such as yellowing plants.
Good luck!