Sticky Doc Bio Filter

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Do u guys think addin a matala pad make this filter any better? Also, if I added the pad would u recommend it be before the irrigation tubes or after the tubes?
 
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I would put it before the bio material (bio balls, etc) to do the mechanical filtration. This is how I have it on my wet/dry for my aquariums.
 
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Dr. Dave,

How goes the changes that you made (ones listed on the linked page)? I am begining my build and was interested if I should incorporate your changes.

Thanks.
 

DrDave

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Both work great as bio filters. That said, if you can keep the tubes from getting into the bottom and the 2" dump valve, the tube one is better for removing fines from the water.

The reason is; the interferrance the tubes provide the water as it migrates up to the overflow is greater than the weight of the particles, hence gravity wins.

I really need to do a FAQ on my webpage and define these better.
 
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I am all done and am now testing it out with temporary piping to and from the filter. I looked at the first set of pictures and I used a shower drain for the return pipe. I even left the plate on there thinking that if it clogged up I could just remove the plate. Well, when I started to place the plastic fencing in the drum, I realized there was no way to guarantee that the water returning to the pond would pass through the fencing. So I then looked again at the updated version on your link and then saw that you had a 2" pipe extending into the middle of the drum and turning downward. So I had to add that to mine. Easy fix.

Upon first trial I noticed that with my new Beckett 1800 running open, the drum would fill up and the level went over my return line, then flushed out really fast creating a fast current in the pond, so I installed a ball valve in the supply line to slow the flow, now all is well. Is this why you have drilled holes above the water level in your return line? So you get some ventilation and it does not go into a cycle of filling up and draining fast?
 

DrDave

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I calculated the area of the 2" opening and drilled holes equivalent to about 3 times that area. I did this because some holes may get debries blockage and this way, the snorkel with all the holes, ensures the water will go out the drain and not overflow. I had several misshaps where I was losing water that overflowed. This made my pond dangerously low while I was at work.
 
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OK. I just installed a 1-1/2" ball valve on the supply side to slow the flow. I guess the 1800 was a bit of overkill. It was making my pond look like a stream when it would dump it all out in a hurry. Now I get a nice even flow......
 

hewhoisatpeace

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I used a Rubbermaid 100g tank and a lighting grate to suspend my media. Media was washable air filters on the bottom, graduating to Matala mat (white), then to lava rock (just about 3", not enough to clog). I have 2" going in, splitting to two 1.5" with venturis before my directional elbows, so I get aerated water going into the filter. Growing plants on top, dwarf hyacinth and elephant ear, to further colonize bacteria and deplete nitrates and phosphates. I also keep some barley bales submerged here.

What do you think of my setup?
 

hewhoisatpeace

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There are plenty on the Pond photography thread, titled 'Pictorial History' Check it out, if you need more though, I'll see if I can snap a few close ups of the plumbing
 

sissy

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I love the new info on this sight .I have been putting together a list of things to try and the list keeps growing .

can I ask what the ring is of plastic pipe on your dr daves video 2010
 
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Thanks for all the help doc. I will be building 1 or two of these whenever I get out of school and can afford it. Only question I have is, is the backflush enough to take care of all the dirt and leaves that the bacteria can't consume? I take it they eat all the fish poop so you don't have to worry about that...
 

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