Last time I'm doing this.
You think I'm going to ignore actual applications for your interpretations? Whether you've heard of this or not says more about you than anything else, WB. OF COURSE you'd add water to the 'powder', which is EXACTLY what my dad used to refer to the bags sitting on their pallet when he wanted either cement or mortar made. I worked for him in my early twenties and made each many times to understand exactly what I'm talking about. My dad used to purchase St. Mary's and Huron branded cement and mortar for his jobs (and sharp sand -- though many other cheap commercial companies would sub for the softer edged stuff). There weren't all the types listed then. You wanted cement, you ordered that, mortar the same.
For his cement aquariums, he formed them from plywood and added rebar to the corners as he had two on the ground (basement floor, also concrete) and two as 'bunk' aquariums above. ALL were over 200 gallons, which in that day, made them very large hobbist homes for his fish. He did indeed take the cement 'powder' and adding water, brushed a coating on the entire inside. He may have done this twice, not sure of that detail. He never had a leak, except by the front glass because then, silicone glue wasn't in vogue yet and he used a mastic like material. But there never was water leaking from any of the four aquariums (nor in the adjoining rooms). And these were created in the 60's, lasting beyond his death in '90, but still working in '95 when mom sold the house. So, you want proof? You can meander your way to 3921 Auburn, Royal Oak Michigan and ask the current owners if you can inspect the four cement aquariums sitting in the basement. No one in their right mind would ever try and remove them.
I also mentioned the flower boxes he'd fix this way, though that took a half inch layer of cement, not a wash, to make it waterproof. And all the chimney caps he fixed. Granted, due to the extreme heating and cooling, cracks ALWAYS happened and mastic/tar was then applied for many long years of use thereafter. Aquariums made of concrete don't go through that.
So, my definition of waterproof seems to be at odds with yours. I bet others would see that no water leaking for nigh on 30 years from a cement aquarium (bottom and one side exposed to the room, back and side attached to cinder block walls--ALL with no water leaking/damage ever) is a good definition of waterproof. Maybe there in AZ, YMMV.
So, you might want to back up your voodoo witch-hunt for all those that like to spew rumor and fallacy over the internet (as I perceive your dogging of this topic) and just take that lil trip to Michigan; a bit of humility would do you a world of good.
I realize you do bring up good points about internet info, WB, but you seem to have lost your ability to even consider or judge when someone is actually telling the truth. Must be a charm to live with. And in the end, some like me will create our projects, using info just like I passed on to the OP, and without a lot of muss and fuss. While you're having fun trying to knock the legs out from some (me) who will just shake their heads. My father was a very good bricklayer and the years of experience he had puts your efforts here to deride them, to shame.
You got nothing better to do, or can't find your way to the address I gave you, build one of your own. Cement (use 6 bag so I won't have to chide you later for not paying attention and using good standards) and pour into your form (btw, if you wet the inside of your forms, they'll give you a smoother finished surface when you take the form off). Add the rebar to give your corners integrity, some for the bottom, then, after all has cured, find some old world magic powder, Portland cement ( Huron is in Ohio, St. Mary's in Detroit - you can order from them), and apply the 'milk-shake-thick' slurry to the inside of your experiment. Let that sit and just to be sure, when cured, do it again.
AND THAT'S IT. You can do it, WB, I have faith.
And stop being so condescending toward those that might actually have something for others. You might have a lot of your facts straight and for many threads, I actually like your advice, but maybe you don't know it all after all.
You'll notice, never did I say that last applied to myself; in this case, I'm using knowledge given to me by a skilled craftsman of over 40 years experience, as well as having participated in myself, once upon a time. For him and his memory alone, I'm indulging this.
Larkin? (and anyone else reading) You there? Sorry for the tone and probably should just delete this, but sometimes, I'd like to think a person can post and not be subjected to verbal jousting.
WB, the stage is yours, if you want to continue. For me, I'm done. If you want the last word; it's yours.
Michael
I agree 100%...tiresome.
There are an infinite number of recipes which use Portland cement to get an endless number of desired results. It seems like you're saying you use just Portland cement "powder" (no one calls it power BTW) as a paint? I assume you do add some water. Painted over what? I have never heard of that at least by a professional. Portland + water results in an extremely brittle and weak result...if you're talking about using it as a mortar.
I tried Google, since you're not giving any details, to see if I miss something. I couldn't find anything about Portland and water used as a paint to waterproof, or for anything else except for some people who didn't know what they were doing and their poor results. I'm really trying to understand what you're talking about. I'm not just sitting here typing to piss you off.
I guess all the high tech waterproofing products out there to seal basements could be replaced with Portland cement "paint"? That sure would be a lot cheaper. I kind of think if it worked a lot more people would know about it.
It isn't waterproof.
Let's be clear on what waterproof means. Water doesn't "flow" thru concrete or mortar unless there's a good size crack. And that's key. Two things have to be true for concrete to be waterproof. It can't crack and is has to be formulated to be waterproof. If either of these fails the result isn't waterproof.
Water is absorbed by concrete and the water evaporates from the "dry" side. Often the surface will even appear dry, but a fair amount of water is still moving thru the mortar/concrete. Instruments are used to determine how much water is coming thru. This can reduce the life of the concrete and more and more water will be able to move thru the concrete. This is water resistant, not waterproof.
Pretty much every basement on the planet has experienced this issue unless a waterproofing membrane was applied to the outside of the concrete walls and floor. Even then water penetration can still be a problem. Most basements have a sump pump to handle the problem.
Correct. Must be something else.
Believe it or not I actually would very much like you to back it up. I sure don't mind being shown I'm wrong in some meaningless forum if I can learn something new. I'll take that deal any day and thank you for the lesson. My main problem is I don't really understand what you'd talking about. You use terms I've never heard in strange context. So you'll have to excuse me if I haven't understood what you're trying to say. Just now in your previous post I learned you used Portland cement and water (I assume) to make some kind of "paint" applied over something I assume. I've never heard of Portland cement being used in such a way. It makes little sense to me, but if that's what you're saying I be interested in more details. However, understand I'm not going to just accept whatever you say if it's in direct conflict with reams of info available on cement products.
So far...not. If you want to explain your process rather than just being defensive I'd sure be interested and would like to change to believing..
You haven't actually explained what you'd applied.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
