Come spring start up, I realized my old filter was completely shot: uv light shattered, canister split, unfixable. I replaced it with a new pressure/biological filter, but of course that means my system needs to completely cycle all over again. I have 3 air pumps going and the pressure filter is running, so I have plenty of circulation. Recently, some ammonia started registering on the test results. I've stopped feeding the fish and I've done two 50% water changes over the past 2 days. I've also been adding in beneficial bacteria to help start up the system. My biggest koi, about 19 inches, flashes occasionally. She's not rubbing against the floor or sides. She just swims through the air pump and flashes. In addition, the poor things all really want food. Any advice? I'm thinking maybe I should move the two biggest fish into my 300 gallon quarantine tank until the pond finishes cycling.
This is a lot to read but has quite a bit of info. I'm sure it will be helpful. As it was in a forum with no link, I cut and pasted it for you. Happy reading
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STARTS HERE >>>
I went searching for other possible causes of flashing and came across a write-up on the website of Hanover Koi Farm. They put a lot of work into it and it gives an approach to determining the cause of flashing that is well-suited to new koikeepers. I do not necessarily endorse everything said or recommended (like using salt at 0.3%) and it leaves out some details in treating for parasites (such as eliminating the salt from the water before using a F/MG treatment), but can't expect an encyclopedic check list or nobody would ever use it! ..... From the good folks at Hanover Koi:
Flashing/Rubbing
Flashing is one of the most common symptoms seen in Koi and goldfish, and is easily noticed. This is when you see the fish turn sideways while darting in a specific direction, and expose (or flash) their sides to you. When they turn sideways, the sun or light reflects off of their scales and causes a ‘flash” of light so to speak. Sometimes they are turning quickly onto their sides while darting forward and actually scratching or rubbing themselves against an object in the water.
Flashing is a sign that something is irritating them, but just because you see one or more flash it does not always mean you should just jump in and treat or that there is some major problem. It is quite common to see any given fish flash a time or two now and then. Don't panic! Since there are many possible causes for flashing, I will devote a great deal of time to this particular symptom. Here is where the detective work begins, and you have to narrow things down by looking for clues. You look for the clues by asking yourself a series of questions. Below I will give you these questions in the order of their relevance. This lengthy, step-by-step description is to aid you in becoming a detective. These methods can be utilized to diagnose and treat other symptoms as well. Remember, the fish can't tell us how they feel, so we are forced to look closely at their body language and physical conditions to solve the puzzle. There is almost an endless list of variables involved as well, so start with the question below, and move on to the next, until you are fairly certain you have figured out what is going on. The fish will show signs of improvement when you are on the right track. The biggest question will always be, how long to wait for a positive response. Keep in mind however, that a microscope and scrape may give you the answers in a timelier manner, but I also realize that in the real world some folks just can't or won't go to this degree for various reasons. The amount of time you take to try and diagnose without the use of a scope, totally depends on the symptoms increasing, or other types of symptoms appearing. You just have to use your best judgment on when, and if, to treat. Understand as well, that there can be times where unwarranted treatments can unduly stress the fish and make matters worse, or cause other symptoms to appear.
Question # 1
Is it just ONE fish doing it, or MULTIPLE fish?
If more than one fish, or most of them exhibit this behavior, and the symptoms appeared rather quickly, then this is leaning more towards, (but not limited to), poor water quality being the issue, (i.e. the presence of ammonia, nitrite or pH/kH problems). If only one fish shows this symptom, then chances are better for the culprit being disease or parasites. We will get to these further below, but either way you should read on.
Step #1; Check the ammonia and Nitrite reading with a suitable test kit. Both parameters should be ZERO ultimately.
Ammonia poisoning, as well as any water quality issue, can show other symptoms, such as red fins, clamped fins, fin twitching, and excess slime coat on the body. Also hanging in the water, or gasping at the surface. These symptoms will be listed and discussed elsewhere in this section. If you detect any ammonia in the water, there is a good chance that this is the culprit, and you should read on. It is vital you eliminate or neutralize it immediately!
If no ammonia or nitrites are present, then move to Step #2.
If ammonia is present, there are a couple of things you can and must do to remedy it. The amount of ammonia, as well as the pH, will dictate what should be done. Whatever the reading above zero though, temporarily cease feeding the fish. See "The Science of Water” article in another section. If the reading is positive, and is 1 ppm or less, you can simply add a commercial ammonia binder or neutralizer, which you can find in the "Water Treatments" section of this website. This will keep the ammonia from hurting your fish while giving your filter a chance to cycle further See "The Science of Water" article as well for more information.
If the reading is above 1 ppm, you may need to add multiple doses of the ammonia binder. Read the directions of the brand you use for more information as to how much ammonia a given dose of binder will neutralize. As well, each dose only last for a certain time frame. If the ammonia is still present after that time frame, you will have to redoes the binder. Here at the farm, I use Ultimate Water Conditioner, and each dose is good for up to 1 ppm ammonia, and will only last for three days in the water. You will still read the ammonia on the test kits if they are the correct type, so add more binder if and when needed.
Once you have eliminated or neutralized the ammonia, the fish should cease in this flashing behavior, almost immediately. If not, you should also proceed to Step #2, and the rest of the clues I have listed below.
If you read ANY nitrite upon testing, you can add salt to a .05% (that is point 05% or five one hundreds of one percent). This will protect the fish from the nitrite, until the point the filter bacteria remove it.
Are some or most of the fish flashing ONLY IN THE AFTERNOON OR EVENING?
Step #2; Check the pH and kH with a reliable water test kit, which is capable of giving readings in half points.( i.e. 7.5,8.0,8.5 etc.) Low or fluctuating pH could be the cause, and is the next thing to check, and the number one cause of flashing.
Testing the pH should be done by taking two readings. One, in the early morning, and another in the late afternoon or evening, and in the same weather conditions. As long as the pH is between 7 and 9, you are looking primarily for any difference between the AM and PM readings. For example, if you take it in the AM, and it is 7.5, then you take it again in the PM, and it is 8.6, this is a change or difference of 1.1 (one and one tenth), from morning to evening. This is too great a change, in such a short time. Any change of more than .3 (three tenths) from morning to evening, is detrimental to the well being of the fish, and will usually cause the flashing to occur sometime in the afternoon or evening when it goes above the three tenths change they can tolerate.
If you do see a change in the pH of more than three tenths, you should test and adjust the kH. Adding a certain amount of baking soda to the pond will accomplish this. Please read, or re-read the article "The Science of Water”. Once you correct the fluctuating pH, by correcting the kH, you may very well see the flashing decrease or totally subside over the next twenty four hours or so. If not keep reading below.
If the pH is stable, but below 7, then the flashing culprit could be that the water is too acidic. Usually though, if this were the case, the fish flash all of the time, and/or show other symptoms as well. These acidic conditions also need to be corrected, and will usually mean the kH is out of whack, and needs to be corrected as well.
Does one or more fish flash ONLY DURING OR AFTER FEEDING?
If you have ruled out ammonia and pH problems, then the type of food could be the possible cause of the flashing. If you notice the flashing during or after feeding primarily, then it could be caused by food particles getting stuck in the gills. Flake foods as well as other types with lots of oils or powdery residue, can get easily lodged in the gills and irritate the fish. If food particles are the problem, the flashing should desist shortly after feeding. If you can live with this, the fish will be fine. Otherwise change food to one with less chance of this happening. You can find such a food in the “Koi Food" section of this site.
Another food related flashing issue is sinking food. Most antibiotic foods sink to the bottom, and as the fish feed off of the bottom, they are sifting through any mulm or detris (muck) that has accumulated there as well. In doing so, they stir up the bottom, and the fine particles of the mulm cause a cloud effect. These fine particles can also get logged in their gills and cause an irritation as well, and thus cause flashing. Also when the fish disturb any muck on the bottom, they are releasing small amounts of hydrogen sulfide into the water, and this can irritate and slightly burn the gills as well, and thus cause flashing.
Do all fish flash when in close proximity to any pumps, lights or electrical devices in the pond?
Another cause to flashing could be a stray electrical voltage in the water. This can be caused by electrical shorts in the wiring of electrical devices that are in direct contact with the water, such as pumps, lighting, etc. Get an electrical meter, and put one lead to a ground wire, or even directly in the earth, and touch the other lead to the water. If you get a voltage reading between ground and the water, you have a short, and need to find the problem. The flashing should cease upon the elimination of the stray voltage in the water. You must watch the fish closely however, because sometimes they will simply use these devices as scratching posts. If this is the case, it is probably not due to stray voltage, and you should be able to see the difference.
Have you done a RECENT WATER CHANGE or has it RAINED HARD RECENTLY?
As stated above, if the water you added was not chemically identical to the water remaining in the pond or tank, this can cause flashing as well. We discussed ammonia, ph, kH, and temperature, but there are some others to consider as well.
Heavy metals in the water, such as iron and copper to name a few, can also cause irritation or even fatal poisoning over time, and if in sufficient numbers. You should have your tap or well water tested for these compounds, and if they are present, you should add a good dechlorinator or water conditioner when doing a water change. If you are using tap water that is treated with chlorine or chloramines, you should make sure that the dechlorinator is a multi- purpose type, which will detoxify these compounds as well. You can find such a multi- purpose water conditioner in the "Water Treatments" section of this website. This product will also detoxify ammonia and nitrites as well.
Rainwater can also change the chemistry of your pond, for all of the same reasons discussed above, especially the temperature and pH. Therefore, it must be considered. This is why it is critical to regularly test your pond water. If you don't know where the normal parameters usually range, you will not be able to know how the rain has or has not affected it.
Another consideration of rain is runoff. For example, if you have mulch around your pond, the runoff can go over the mulch and into the pond. Well, some mulch is treated with chemicals to keep out bugs, and to keep it from decomposing too quickly. The same holds true for treated lumber, so if you have a wood deck in close proximity to the pond, the chemicals use to treat it could possible affect the water or the fish directly.
What about lawn treatment chemicals and fertilizers? Put any down recently?
These too can change the water or irritate the fish. If you have eliminated all of the above, you can suspect this to be a possible cause for flashing. Do a fifty to seventy five percent water change as soon as possible. You should see a quick change in the behavior of the fish, as long as you did the change slowly, and compared parameters of old and new water.
Have you recently added any type of medication or water treatments to the pond or tank?
This is pretty cut and dry. If you add any type of medications or other treatments to the water, these things can sometimes cause discomfort, and thus cause flashing. Remember again, that individual fish may react differently to different things. If you suspect this to be the problem, you need to double-check the dosage rate you used. Was it the correct rate for the amount of water in the pond or tank? If not, you should do a water change to correct the mistake. I must emphasize here that it is absolutely, 100%, no two ways about it a fact that most people do not know the true volume of their ponds or tanks. If you used the method of calculating volume by measuring the pond and its average depth, you are probably from 25%to 50% incorrect. The formula works fine, but the measurements are usually done very inaccurately, due to the irregular shape and depth of ponds. The only true way to know the gallons in your pond, is to use the water meter in your house, if you have city water, or to purchase a portable one from this website or other supply house. This is also the number one reason some people have no success with certain medications or water additives. They end up over or under treating. If you have ruled these possibilities out, and you are sure of your gallons and dosage rates, then you can probably assume you have just run into one ore more of these sensitive fish. Just keep a close watch on them for signs of improvement or decline.
Have you eliminated all of the above possibilities, and the fish are still flashing?
If so, you can probably safely assume it is not a water quality issue, and that it is more than likely caused by the presence of a microscopic protozoan parasite or Tremetodes. I will address the protozoan first, and we will talk separately about the Tremetodes. There is still a chance that it could be a bacteria or virus as well, but these usually show other symptoms that will be listed later on.
For the moment, let’s assume we have narrowed it down to being microscopic protozoan parasites. The protozoa's, to name a few of the most common ones, include, Costia, Trichodina, Chilodonella, and Ich. Most, (but not all) of these can usually be slowed down by salt, and I would choose salt treatment at .3% (three tenths of one percent) solution. Go to the “Koi Treatments and Quarantine Procedures” Sub-menu at the top of this page. The salt at this level may give the fish some added time and slow an infestation from becoming overwhelming, and their own immune systems may be able to handle it from there.
For flashing due to suspected parasites, use salt treatment of .3% solution by itself, and maintain its concentration for a week or two. If this works, great you are done.
Still flashing after another 3 days or so?
If the above has still not corrected the problem, then you are forced to bring out the big guns. At this point, we are still assuming that the problem is a protozoan parasite, but the salt was not enough to do the trick. This is a very good possibility today, as salt is not as effective as it once was. This is due primarily to the fact that after years of utilizing salt, the bugs are becoming immune to it. In my opinion however, I still feel that salt is the safest method for the inexperienced hobbyist to utilize before moving up to the stronger treatments listed below.
This brings us to the treatments of ProForm C or Quick Cure .They are both a mixture of formaldehyde and malachite green at varied strengths (F&MG for short), and are designed to kill these protozoan parasites, as well as cure any fungal problems the fish might have. You can read the details of these treatments in “Koi treatments and Quarantine Procedures “We will talk about fungus later on in this article. If after following the directions for its use, and you still see flashing after the prescribed treatments, move on to the next question. It is important though, that you wait until the treatment you utilize to be is completed, before making a decision on whether it has worked. The reason being is that in some cases, with some fish, the treatment of either of these products in themselves, can cause flashing, or a temporary increase in flashing because it may irritate the fish as well! Certain other treatments and medications can have this temporary effect on the fish also. This is quite common, so keep this in mind, and wait until you have completed the water changes suggested by the manufacture.
Still flashing? Really?
Well, don't worry; we still have a few more tricks. If the fish are still flashing, and you have diligently checked and done, all of the above, the problem is narrowed down to most likely being microscopic Tremetodes or the larger Crustacean parasites. Here will address the Tremetodes.
The most common Tremetodes, which affect our fish, are Flukes. These come in a few variations, such as Gill Flukes, Skin Flukes, and Eye Flukes, and are not commonly killed by salt or the F&MG treatments. Flukes are microscopic, and look and move like an earthworm. There are capable of attaching to different parts of the fish, utilizing claw like hooks attached to one end of them.
If you now suspect Flukes to be the problem, see the various Tremetode treatments. The reason I mention various products in that section is due to a few considerations. They all have good points as well as bad. I will describe this in detail in their respective treatments.
Are they still flashing?
Ok, don't panic or be frustrated. We are down to the last most likely cause of flashing. These are the crustacean parasites, and the most common of these are Argulus (fish lice), and Lernea (anchor worms). Both of these parasites are visible to the naked eye; so needless to say, before you start any of the treatments above, look for these critters on the fish. You can save yourself a lot of time and frustration if you find these critters before proceeding with the other treatments listed above. Fish lice resemble ticks to the naked eye, and attach themselves to parts of the fish in a similar way as ticks do as well. They can come in multiple colors including, clear, brown, green, and white.
As adults, anchor worms resemble inchworms, but they attach one end of themselves to the fish with multiple stem-like appendages. These too, can come in various colors. Anchor worms will look different at various stages of their life, but it is not uncommon to see both adults and juveniles on a fish at the same time. The eggs or juveniles resemble tiny black ants or rods, in small groups on the body.
Both fish lice, and anchor worms are hard to kill and require specific treatments and medications.
See the Crustacean treatments for the safest and most effective treatment. I will discuss the pros and cons of each, in the treatment section.
Well, I tried to tell you it took detective work, but if you have read this carefully, then the problem should be solved. If not, you can call me, and I will see if I can be of further assistance. Also know and realize that flashing can be related to a multitude of problems, as stated earlier. This is why I have spent so much time on this symptom. The other symptoms will not be as hard to narrow down to the culprit. You must however, be aware that any of the problems you may have encountered above, as well as the treatments themselves, can stress the fish, and in the future, possibly cause other problems to occur. For example, a fish that has been overcome by parasites, or that is housed too long in poor water quality, may acquire a bacterial or viral illness. These are usually secondary infections brought about by the stress and damage of the original problem. This is why it is to your advantage, to make a point of looking for these body language signs on a daily basis. You should spend at least ten minutes a day strictly noticing the behavior of your fish. You will notice when one or all of them are not acting as they normally do. The sooner you notice a problem, the easier it is to fix and cure. You are also greatly reducing the chance of a secondary problem occurring.
