Spawning and Ammonia / Nitrite Spike

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You certainly should.
Refresh my memory. What is your biofiltration size? Type of media?
I have a 2000 gal pond with an AlphaOne 2.5 GcTek good for supposedly 5000 gal.
Savio full size w/ main drain and 2 UV's .... pre-filter on bio. etc, etc ... Running a 1/4 hp
external on bio approx 4000 gph. Have to look that one up. So, I'm on overkill if you would
agree. I wasn't surprised with all the water changes and backwashed for this to happen.
I expected to get back on track sooner than 2 weeks. So, just a tad of nitrites left.
 
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You certainly should.
Refresh my memory. What is your biofiltration size? Type of media?

Hi Meyer ... @Meyer Jordan ... I gave you my stats above ... It seems now, the ammonia is down on it's own and no binder is needed. On the other hand, the nitrites are still between .25 & .50, not rising but not yet retreating. All that spawning, backwashing and water changing reduced the bacteria, obviously damaging the level. The nitrosomonas multiply at a much slower rate than the nitrobacter, right? Would you do a small water change to bring the nitrite down or just be patient? I did salt immediately when I saw nitrites up. Obviously the BB are building back or I'd have ammonia and increasing nitrites but nitrites are holding. If I do a water change, probably wouldn't be a good idea to backwash. I will want to do one sooner or later as I want to slowly remove the salt which is about a
.2 level. Thanks ... In the 24 years, I never went through 3 simultaneous spawns. yuk !!!
 

Meyer Jordan

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Quite an interesting situation. Even though I normally don't advocate maintaining any salt level in a pond, this is one exception. The salt does need to be eventually removed from the water column but I would delay doing this until you detect a either a reduction in Nitrite or an increase in Nitrate. A Nitrite level of 0.25-0.50 though not lethal may cause problems if the temperature of the pond were to rise. Once the Nitrite level begins to decrease, I would begin small water changes to reduce the salinity.
One thing that you now know that you may not have previously known is that you have at least three (3) female Koi.
 
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Quite an interesting situation. Even though I normally don't advocate maintaining any salt level in a pond, this is one exception. The salt does need to be eventually removed from the water column but I would delay doing this until you detect a either a reduction in Nitrite or an increase in Nitrate. A Nitrite level of 0.25-0.50 though not lethal may cause problems if the temperature of the pond were to rise. Once the Nitrite level begins to decrease, I would begin small water changes to reduce the salinity.
One thing that you now know that you may not have previously known is that you have at least three (3) female Koi.

And next Spring, I won't forget it! I'm not a chauvinist by any means but I can't say I like it! Thanks for the advise. Sounds like what I had in mind!
 

sissy

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I neglect my pond and not really testing anymore and water is clear and fish are healthy .I think sometimes messing with every thing just causes more problems and scares people into doing things for this reason alone and just causes more problems .I did have every thing tested at the pet store here but that is it and that was 2 weeks ago and only because I was going to Danville and all tests were great ,they test everything possible .I will let it all be and worry about other things instead .If nothing has gone wrong since 2004 except for replacing liner and new pumps and my so called cheap U.V and bulbs ,they work since I have not lost a fish yet .Daddy is always right ,he did it I can do it the old fashioned way
 
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I neglect my pond and not really testing anymore and water is clear and fish are healthy .I think sometimes messing with every thing just causes more problems and scares people into doing things for this reason alone and just causes more problems .I did have every thing tested at the pet store here but that is it and that was 2 weeks ago and only because I was going to Danville and all tests were great ,they test everything possible .I will let it all be and worry about other things instead .If nothing has gone wrong since 2004 except for replacing liner and new pumps and my so called cheap U.V and bulbs ,they work since I have not lost a fish yet .Daddy is always right ,he did it I can do it the old fashioned way

I'm kind of big on testing, especially under conditions as such. Otherwise, I'd test once a week when things are stable. As far as messing with things, this was caused by 3 spawns within 3 days so leaving the ammonia and nitrites alone would lead to problems. I did what was necessary, not what I wanted to do. Hopefully next year, my 3 female friends with behave themselves or not ... :) ... If that works for you Sissy, by all means, don't change.
 
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And next Spring, I won't forget it! I'm not a chauvinist by any means but I can't say I like it! Thanks for the advise. Sounds like what I had in mind!

Hi @Meyer Jordan ... So, my levels are normal. Nitrite hit 0 ... I'd like to remove some salt now.
I'd start with a small water change, say 10-15%. Would you use the agitator on the bio-filter and do a small backwash or leave it alone for a while and just do the water change? Value your opinion!
 

Meyer Jordan

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Hi @Meyer Jordan ... So, my levels are normal. Nitrite hit 0 ... I'd like to remove some salt now.
I'd start with a small water change, say 10-15%. Would you use the agitator on the bio-filter and do a small backwash or leave it alone for a while and just do the water change? Value your opinion!

Without knowing the full character of your pond, I have no way of determining how much mulm may accumulate in your bio-filter over a stipulated period of time.
If you feel that it needs a back-wash then, by all means, perform one. Knowing the durability and tenacity of any biofilm, I seriously doubt that you will trigger any negative effects to your present bioconversion level.
 

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