Re-evaluating filtration

[cas]

Yes, the two stores by me don't really get their plants until next month. If you can wait @Andrew , there are lots of people selling pond plants on craigs list.

 

[Andrew]

Two weeks with the new filter now... actually if you count the waterfall filter full of bio balls I've gone from just one filter to three. I've seen only a small improvement, where now I can see 3-4 inches beneath the surface instead of almost not at all, and the water is less green but a little more gray. It's still too early to get any plants around here, and last year's water lilies are just the tiniest sprouts.

I haven't done any water replacement at all, mostly because I don't know where to drain to. If I continue to not see much of a difference I might have to rethink that.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Two weeks with the new filter now... actually if you count the waterfall filter full of bio balls I've gone from just one filter to three. I've seen only a small improvement, where now I can see 3-4 inches beneath the surface instead of almost not at all, and the water is less green but a little more gray. It's still too early to get any plants around here, and last year's water lilies are just the tiniest sprouts.

I haven't done any water replacement at all, mostly because I don't know where to drain to. If I continue to not see much of a difference I might have to rethink that.

Your biofiltration is not going to help in ending the 'pea soup' conditions in your pond. In fact, biofilration is a major cause of the problem as the Ammonia produced by your fish has been converted to Nitrate which is a main nutrient for plants and, yes, algae.
A 700 gph pump in your 600 gallon pond does not provide near the turn-over rate that you need. Add to this that the pump being a mag-drive is likely losing quite a bit of flow rate do to head loss. You need a minimum of 900 gph end flow rate or even better 1200 gph.
The choices of solutions to the 'pea soup' condition are: More plants and/or less fish. Providing some shade.will certainly help.

 

[Faebinder]

You're in zone 6a. Similar to mine.

Are your lilies not coming out yet?
Consider adding dwarf cattails. They will survive and kick ass in spring.
If the water is not going below 45, then maybe you can buy some hyacinths, water lettuce, and frogbits to add to the pond. Mine are survive ok now.

To be honest, your biggest problem is that you have 3 Koi + 5 comets in 600 gallons, with the key issue being the koi. You need another 400 gallons to get a cleaner pond. Good luck.

I just saw Meyer's post after i posted and I pretty much agree.

 

[Andrew]

Your biofiltration is not going to help in ending the 'pea soup' conditions in your pond. In fact, biofilration is a major cause of the problem as the Ammonia produced by your fish has been converted to Nitrate which is a main nutrient for plants and, yes, algae.
A 700 gph pump in your 600 gallon pond does not provide near the turn-over rate that you need. Add to this that the pump being a mag-drive is likely losing quite a bit of flow rate do to head loss. You need a minimum of 900 gph end flow rate or even better 1200 gph.
The choices of solutions to the 'pea soup' condition are: More plants and/or less fish. Providing some shade.will certainly help.

If the biofiltration is adding too many nitrates won't increasing the pump size just run the water through the filters more often, making the problem worse? Also, I've been warned that increasing flow rate decreases the effect of the UV sterilizer, which is what I thought was the solution to the green water problem.

 

[sissy]

That is why i tell people to have a pump just for your U.V. The slower the water goes in the better it will work .

 

[Meyer Jordan]

If the biofiltration is adding too many nitrates won't increasing the pump size just run the water through the filters more often, making the problem worse? Also, I've been warned that increasing flow rate decreases the effect of the UV sterilizer, which is what I thought was the solution to the green water problem.

Let's establish some priorities. Number one priority in any pond that houses fish is sufficient biofiltration, This is the only method of keeping Ammonia and Nitrite levels to an absolute minimum ensuring. In other words, Water Quality. After this, and only after, comes aesthetics which includes water clarity.
You apparently have sufficient biofiltration. Increasing the flow rate will not only further enhance Water Quality but also water clarity by - filtering the water at a faster pace, providing better oxygenation through improved water movement, and filtering out a larger portion of suspended solids before it has a chance to settle.
Yes, a UV does require a low flow rate,this is why they are typically plumbed separate from the biofilter. I have never put much faith in UV/Filter combos.

 

[sissy]

My pond is over aeration is always a big winner .I have used that idea for my pond .With my home made spitters and my air pumps and I keep an airstone in each filter and plants in filters and waterfall pond really help .

 

[Tula]

You are correct about water not passing too quickly by the UV light, for it to be effective. My UV, slides into the skimmer, so I had to remove one of the pumps inside skimmer, to slow the flow. It depends how your UV is set up, if it's in line, you could divert some of your water , thereby reducing the flow rate.

 

[Andrew]

Let's establish some priorities. Number one priority in any pond that houses fish is sufficient biofiltration, This is the only method of keeping Ammonia and Nitrite levels to an absolute minimum ensuring. In other words, Water Quality. After this, and only after, comes aesthetics which includes water clarity.
You apparently have sufficient biofiltration. Increasing the flow rate will not only further enhance Water Quality but also water clarity by - filtering the water at a faster pace, providing better oxygenation through improved water movement, and filtering out a larger portion of suspended solids before it has a chance to settle.
Yes, a UV does require a low flow rate,this is why they are typically plumbed separate from the biofilter. I have never put much faith in UV/Filter combos.

This is great info, thank you. I'll relax for now knowing I have sufficient biofiltration to keep my fish alive. Water clarity is priority #2 (I'd like to see my fish even when I'm not feeding them) so if adding more plants doesn't make a difference I'll start shopping for a larger pump.

 

[Faebinder]

If the biofiltration is adding too many nitrates won't increasing the pump size just run the water through the filters more often, making the problem worse? Also, I've been warned that increasing flow rate decreases the effect of the UV sterilizer, which is what I thought was the solution to the green water problem.

Your problem is green water right? Ok that means there are a lot of nitrates/Phosphates. If you slow down the pump or keep it less than optimal your problem will become ammonia and nitrites (which are not being changed to nitrates), which will result in injured fish rather green water.

 

[sissy]

if you use barley with peat it will help also .