Raising KH With Coral or Oyster?

crsublette

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So the feed store had oyster and coral mixed, so I guess they decided for me. She assured me nothing else was added--straight from the ocean floor--she says. Should I wash it or just throw it in? I got a few thistle bags to house some. I can also hook up my old bio-filter. Its round and put some in there shooting out the PVC about 2.1/2 ft. up. Does the oyster/coral need air or light source to do their thing? I bought 25 lbs.

Thanks


Nah, no air nor light source required and the air would likely work against you.

If you are familiar with building a DIY carbon dioxide reactor, often used in planted aquarium tanks or reef aquariums, so to more quickly dissolve the oyster/coral that is in the PVC pipe, then this helps in significantly increasing the dissolve rate. Just make sure there is significant water aeration so to remove any free carbon dioxide before the water returns to the pond. Although, if you screw up, then the DIY reactors can kill your fish.

For store bought reactors, here is a listing of them from Bulk Reef Supply, but these are likely too small to be effective for ponds.


Yep, as Addy said, don't rinse it.
 
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Nah, no air nor light source required and the air would likely work against you.

If you are familiar with building a DIY carbon dioxide reactor, often used in planted aquarium tanks or reef aquariums, so to more quickly dissolve the oyster/coral that is in the PVC pipe, then this helps in significantly increasing the dissolve rate. Just make sure there is significant water aeration so to remove any free carbon dioxide before the water returns to the pond. Although, if you screw up, then the DIY reactors can kill your fish.

For store bought reactors, here is a listing of them from Bulk Reef Supply, but these are likely too small to be effective for ponds.


Yep, as Addy said, don't rinse it.

I don't even know what a carbon dioxide reactor is, so wouldn't have a clue on DIY. I don't think I will attempt seeing as it could kill my fish giving the high probability of me screwing it up.

I'll use a couple of the thistle bags and put them in my filter on top of the lava rocks. I also was going to add some to the hexalock bio filter. It's just a round drum that used a 3 sponge system. If I just toss them in there and put some filter material on top, ( so they won't come rushing through the out take) close it up and set a piece of PVC to the end of the hose, It will then spill the water from a few feet above splashing into the pond. This sound like it might work? I can get photos if needed.

Thanks so much
 
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To put it in Laymans terms we have used both Lithaqua (calcified Sea weed/Algae) and Crushed oyster shell before and they both did the job well in maintaining the correct levels of our Ph or Kh throughout the season (y)
I think thats what your wanting to hear isnt it and which of the two we prefare ? ;)
Crushed oyster shell is the cheaper of the two options and can be bough by the sack full from feed stores at relitiely little cost or you can get them for free from your local fish merchants (boil them first) crush them down, then place them in a fine mesh laundry bag a $1.00 or $2.00 thats all from your local super market :cool:
Lythaqua on the other hand costs alott and you'll only get enough for one or two seasons :(

Dave;)
 
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To put it in Laymans terms we have used both Lithaqua (calcified Sea weed/Algae) and Crushed oyster shell before and they both did the job well in maintaining the correct levels of our Ph or Kh throughout the season (y)
I think thats what your wanting to hear isnt it and which of the two we prefare ? ;)
Crushed oyster shell is the cheaper of the two options and can be bough by the sack full from feed stores at relitiely little cost or you can get them for free from your local fish merchants (boil them first) crush them down, then place them in a fine mesh laundry bag a $1.00 or $2.00 thats all from your local super market :cool:
Lythaqua on the other hand costs alott and you'll only get enough for one or two seasons :(

Dave;)
Thank you, I bought a mixture of the oyster and coral from the feed store, I'll be adding it and see what happens.
 
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I listened to the radio show featuring "fish lady" all about koi. The link was provided here by one of our members, can't recall who at the moment. Anyway, two things I took away from the show, was oyster shells and quality food. My PH is 8 - 8.2 ( tested last summer), is there a benefit to oyster shells in my water? She discussed the benefit of the minerals in the oyster shells.
 

crsublette

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Yeah, it was interesting to listen to...But me being me... I think she was too simple on the answer, but time is valuable real estate on these shows so she likely couldn't get into it.

With a 8.0~8.2pH, oyster shells well mainly be a benefit where there are potential anaerobic zones or in plant pots or in bogs, etc. When you start talking about the complex formations at a high pH, then the dissolution rate is incredibly low, to pretty much zero, when the high pH water is only flowing over it. However, there are other locations where the will be localized acidic zones created so to dissolve the product, such as potential anaerobic zones or plant pots around the roots or in bogs.

Now, this is assuming your water's pH will always remain at 8.0~8.2 and never drops below this. If your pH possibly dips a little lower, then it will dissolve some so this is an example of when much more of it would be needed since the dissolve rate is lower.

The reason as to how these products stabilizes at lower pHs is due to the product and water's pH finds an equilibrium due to many variables, which these variables might make an equilibrium impossible to happen. Some folk's equilibrium might be at 7.6 while other's might have a pH equilibrium of around 7.9. The variables determining the equilibrium could be number of plants, number of fish, amount of algae, amount of circulation, amount of rain, amount of top-offs due to evaporation rate, etc etc.

This is why the product will help some folk, other folk might have to add alot of it, and other folk might have to also add a fast dissolving bicarbonate or carbonate product such as baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) or potash (potassium carbonate).
 
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crsublette

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So I made up two bags and put them into the filter, only 10 lbs. Hoping to set up that canister filter this weekend and throw some more in that with the splash drain. I'll test before, but think 10 lbs. would be nothing as I'm reading some people are putting 100lbs or more in. Any ideas when there may be a KH change if I get close to the amount needed? I don't want to go adding a ton if it's going to take a bit to register.
Thanks
 

addy1

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I use 100 lbs, just because it works for my pond, the hardness stays around 100-120.
 
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I'll test my ph this week end to see if I could benefit from oyster shells. I don't have a bog, but could place a bag in my skimmer or under my water fall if needed.

I can' get over how much algae my skimmer is collecting. Not sure if it's because I know longer have gravel on my pad bottom, or what. I have to say, my Savio is doing a superior job catching it!

BTW, Addy, seeing shoots on your lilies and bog plants are taking off in the whiskey barrel:)
 

crsublette

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With these products, it takes time since you are waiting for the pond to reach its equilibrium, as described in post#21 (https://www.gardenpondforum.com/threads/raising-kh-with-coral-or-oyster.14136/page-2#post-218722), which is all dependent on how it is installed and volume that is used and amongst other variables.

If you need to see a KH rise much sooner, then look into the potassium carbonate product, as mentioned above, or the baking soda product, as talked about in the pH & KH -- Questions [and a Good Article] thread. (https://www.gardenpondforum.com/threads/ph-kh-questions-and-a-good-article.13885/)
 

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Great to here Tula! My pond took around a year plus some to stabilize, ph and hardness. Our water is so darn soft and acidic. Fresh filled, around 30, The second summer it was around 70 in hardness now around 120 or so
 
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So I made up two bags and put them into the filter, only 10 lbs. Hoping to set up that canister filter this weekend and throw some more in that with the splash drain. I'll test before, but think 10 lbs. would be nothing as I'm reading some people are putting 100lbs or more in. Any ideas when there may be a KH change if I get close to the amount needed? I don't want to go adding a ton if it's going to take a bit to register.
Thanks
We place our sack of oystershell in the third bay of our filter system along with the Japanese matting allowing for maximum flow rate through the sack itself , you dont have to place some in every filter or have to majorly over do it as others have using 100lbs or more just enough to effect the PH if needed we use around about 15-20lbs thats all with no trouble .
When needed it will start to break down thus altering the ponds Ph to what is required for the pond.
We also use zeolite to leach any ammonia from the system, we have two sacks one charged the other in use then its a simple matter to change the sacks of zeolite each filter clean

Dave
 

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