Raising KH & GH and lowering PH

[crsublette]

Might need to increase the volume of oyster shells. Oyster shells are not very soluble, even at low pHs. In aquarium situation, the ratio of oyster shells to water volume is extraordinarily high, and for those who do not want to use that much, they then use a carbonic acid calcium reactor.

 

[campingcreecher]

Its been 1 week since I first asked the question about my KH & GH and PH. I ordered a Replacement UV Sterilizer Bulb for my UV. Its been in for 3 days. My pea green water is now about 70% clearer. I am still having a big swing in my PH, the AM readings (7.7), the PM reading is (9.0). I was hoping that reducing the algae would reduce the PH swing?

My next questions are,

1. How long should it take for the PH to come down on its own by eliminating/reducing the Algae?
2. Does my KH in the pond need to be raised from 71.6?
3. How much baking soda would it take to raise the KH to a normal level for a 2600 gal koi pond?
4. Which should or do I need to adjust first and how much of what product would I use for my 2600 gal. pond



My concerns are:

1. The PH swing (7.7 - 9.0)
2. Would Baking Soda make my PH higher?




My pond is 2600 gals. I have a Koi Toilet bottom drain/aerator in the center that leads to a 275 gal settlement chamber then goes to a 55 gallon biofilter then to the pump. Then the water splits and flows four different ways. A.) biofilter that flows into the bog, which is about 8 ft. diameter. B.) 2/ 55 gal. sand and gravel filters with oyster shell in both, C.) side TPR, D.) a UV. Water flows to the pump by way of a skimmer box (catch net and brushes inside). Bottom drain and a return in the side of the pond.
We do 15% water changes weekly.

My tests on the pond water this morning was:

Ammonia-0
PH - 7.7
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate- 0
KH - 71.6 (4 drops)
GH - 71.6 (4 drops)

My tap water is

Ammonia - 0
PH - 6.8
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
KH - 17.9 (1 drop)

I'll try to upload some pictures I took this morning, of my pond. Thanks again for your help and advise.
GH - 17.9 (1 drop)

 

[campingcreecher]

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Its been 1 week since I first asked the question about my KH & GH and PH. I ordered a Replacement UV Sterilizer Bulb for my UV. Its been in for 3 days. My pea green water is now about 70% clearer. I am still having a big swing in my PH, the AM readings (7.7), the PM reading is (9.0). I was hoping that reducing the algae would reduce the PH swing?

My next questions are,

1. How long should it take for the PH to come down on its own by eliminating/reducing the Algae?
2. Does my KH in the pond need to be raised from 71.6?
3. How much baking soda would it take to raise the KH to a normal level for a 2600 gal koi pond?
4. Which should or do I need to adjust first and how much of what product would I use for my 2600 gal. pond



My concerns are:

1. The PH swing (7.7 - 9.0)
2. Would Baking Soda make my PH higher?




My pond is 2600 gals. I have a Koi Toilet bottom drain/aerator in the center that leads to a 275 gal settlement chamber then goes to a 55 gallon biofilter then to the pump. Then the water splits and flows four different ways. A.) biofilter that flows into the bog, which is about 8 ft. diameter. B.) 2/ 55 gal. sand and gravel filters with oyster shell in both, C.) side TPR, D.) a UV. Water flows to the pump by way of a skimmer box (catch net and brushes inside). Bottom drain and a return in the side of the pond.
We do 15% water changes weekly.

My tests on the pond water this morning was:

Ammonia-0
PH - 7.7
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate- 0
KH - 71.6 (4 drops)
GH - 71.6 (4 drops)

My tap water is

Ammonia - 0
PH - 6.8
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
KH - 17.9 (1 drop)

I'll try to upload some pictures I took this morning, of my pond. Thanks again for your help and advise.
GH - 17.9 (1 drop)

 

[crsublette]

Its been 1 week since I first asked the question about my KH & GH and PH. I ordered a Replacement UV Sterilizer Bulb for my UV. Its been in for 3 days. 1) My pea green water is now about 70% clearer. I am still having a big swing in my PH, the AM readings (7.7), the PM reading is (9.0). I was hoping that reducing the algae would reduce the PH swing?

My next questions are,

1. 2) How long should it take for the PH to come down on its own by eliminating/reducing the Algae?
2. 3) Does my KH in the pond need to be raised from 71.6?
3. 4) How much baking soda would it take to raise the KH to a normal level for a 2600 gal koi pond?
4. 5) Which should or do I need to adjust first and how much of what product would I use for my 2600 gal. pond



My concerns are:

1. The PH swing (7.7 - 9.0)
2. 6) Would Baking Soda make my PH higher?

1) My pea green water is now about 70% clearer. I am still having a big swing in my PH, the AM readings (7.7), the PM reading is (9.0). I was hoping that reducing the algae would reduce the PH swing?

Algae is only one of the many actors involved in causing a pH swing. The fish releasing carbon dioxide and the fluctuations in ammonia to be processed by the bio-filteration can also cause pH swings.

If you do not want to raise your KH volume, then the only other option is to significantly increase water changes or to create a "flow through" system. A "flow through" system is a water change system that uses a constant very slow dribble flow of water into the pond while allows the old water exit through a runoff or overflow ledge of the pond and these flow through systems are in operation 24/7. Water changes essentially dilutes your pond water to match your source water, and, the better you can achieve this, then the more stable your pH will be. Since your source water's KH is quite low, then you will have to significantly increase the water change rate if you want to take this approach.


2) How long should it take for the PH to come down on its own by eliminating/reducing the Algae?

Refer to #1.


3) Does my KH in the pond need to be raised from 71.6?

If you want a much easier route to stop the pH from swinging, then, yes, the KH would need to be raised.


4) How much baking soda would it take to raise the KH to a normal level for a 2600 gal koi pond?

As explained in the thread, Proper KH and GH levels, as following the instructions and using the baking soda-KH calculator, for a 2,600 gallon pond, to increase the KH by 2 drops, that is 35.6ppm, then the measurement of baking soda is 17 ounces. Dissolve this in a container first and then pour it around the pond parameter or in a spot where water is moving such as waterfall or stream. Wait 24 hours for the product to properly react in the water then perform a KH test. Since KH can change pH when the pH is below 8.3~8.5, then only increase the KH by 2 drops, that is 35.6ppm, once every 24 hours. Repeat the process until the KH is up to around 140~160ppm, that is 8~9 drops. If you expect a heavy rain coming, then I would increase the KH up to 12 drops, that is 214ppm.

KH only stabilizes the low end of the pH fluctuations, that is any swing below around 8.3~8.5 pH.


5) Which should or do I need to adjust first and how much of what product would I use for my 2600 gal. pond

Refer to #4.


6) Would Baking Soda make my PH higher?

Yes, but only up to around 8.3~8.5, within a variance of +/-.2. Refer to #4.

 

[crsublette]

Campingcreecher, very lovely pond and very nice setup you have there !!! :banana: :afro: :claphands:


I imagine your bog also is significantly contributing to your pH swings.

Your setup reminds me of Addy's situation, who also has very acidic, soft water in an area that rains alot and has a very nice bog as well, and she uses a very significant volume of oyster shells.

Camping creecher, since you do not want to increase your pH too high, then I would strongly recommend you look into adding much more oyster shells throughout your bog. In your sistuation, the more the oyster shells the better. Also, if you can find it, try to get the oyster shells in smaller granules or try to pulverize it before adding it to the water since the smaller granules will allow more water to come into contact with the product. Once a season or so, then add more oysters shells every year so you can keep the water stabilized, even if you think it does not need it.

In your situation, with the source water you have and appropriate volume of oyster shells, I bet this will keep your water stabilized, but, if it does not, then you will need to raise your KH.

Also, dosing your pond with calcium chloride, as described in the instructions in calcium chloride to lower pH, this will stop the pH from swing all the way to 9.0. Remember though, GH (calcium specifically) only stabilizes the high end of the pH fluctuations, that is any swing above around 8.3~8.5 pH.


I am getting the impression you really do not want to do this, but, as far as I am aware, the options I have shared in this and previous post are your only options. Don't let apprehension control ya. These methods are extremely common in this hobby and are very fish safe and very pond safe at improving the health of the pond water.

 

[addy1]

I don't rinse my oyster shells either. The white powder goes away in a day or so, figure it adds a lot to the pond. It does turn the pond white for a little while.

 

[campingcreecher]

Just thought I would update you on what I've ben doing and get your opinion on Calcium Chloride.

I bought a much better quality UV bulb to help with my green water issue and have put quilt batting at the bottom of all my falls and in my skimmer basket. I have worked my butt off rinsing out all the collected algae. My water is clear to the bottom (3ft.). I have some rocks that are starting to grow a new round of algae which at this point its no problem at all. In order to raise my KH, I have been doing like you said and adding 17 oz. once every 24 hrs. to my goal of 9-11 drops. I've done this four times so far and my KH is at (9) drops 161. My GH is still at (4). Not sure if I should raise that or not? My PH today was about 8.8.

A friend found a bag of Road Runner Ice Melt and gave it to me a few days ago. It is a blend of Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, and Magnesium Chloride. Now I think you suggested getting as close to pure calcium chloride as possible and so I have found a brand called Briners Choice food grade. Which should I use? We have plants in our 2600 Gal. pond and I don't want to cause harm with the salt (Sodium Chloride).

Oh yeah I have added another 50 lb bag of oyster shell to my sand and gravel filters too.
All other tests I do are spot on. Thanks again for all the help!

Campingcreecher, very lovely pond and very nice setup you have there !!! :banana: :afro: :claphands:


I imagine your bog also is significantly contributing to your pH swings.

Your setup reminds me of Addy's situation, who also has very acidic, soft water in an area that rains alot and has a very nice bog as well, and she uses a very significant volume of oyster shells.

Camping creecher, since you do not want to increase your pH too high, then I would strongly recommend you look into adding much more oyster shells throughout your bog. In your sistuation, the more the oyster shells the better. Also, if you can find it, try to get the oyster shells in smaller granules or try to pulverize it before adding it to the water since the smaller granules will allow more water to come into contact with the product. Once a season or so, then add more oysters shells every year so you can keep the water stabilized, even if you think it does not need it.

In your situation, with the source water you have and appropriate volume of oyster shells, I bet this will keep your water stabilized, but, if it does not, then you will need to raise your KH.

Also, dosing your pond with calcium chloride, as described in the instructions in calcium chloride to lower pH, this will stop the pH from swing all the way to 9.0. Remember though, GH (calcium specifically) only stabilizes the high end of the pH fluctuations, that is any swing above around 8.3~8.5 pH.


I am getting the impression you really do not want to do this, but, as far as I am aware, the options I have shared in this and previous post are your only options. Don't let apprehension control ya. These methods are extremely common in this hobby and are very fish safe and very pond safe at improving the health of the pond water.

 

[crsublette]

Just thought I would update you on what I've ben doing and get 1) your opinion on Calcium Chloride.

2) I bought a much better quality UV bulb to help with my green water issue and have put quilt batting at the bottom of all my falls and in my skimmer basket. I have worked my butt off rinsing out all the collected algae. My water is clear to the bottom (3ft.). I have some rocks that are starting to grow a new round of algae which at this point its no problem at all. In order to raise my KH, I have been doing like you said and adding 17 oz. once every 24 hrs. to my goal of 9-11 drops. I've done this four times so far and my KH is at (9) drops 161. My GH is still at (4). Not sure if I should raise that or not? My PH today was about 8.8.

3) A friend found a bag of Road Runner Ice Melt and gave it to me a few days ago. It is a blend of Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, and Magnesium Chloride. Now I think you suggested getting as close to pure calcium chloride as possible and so I have found a brand called Briners Choice food grade. Which should I use? We have plants in our 2600 Gal. pond and I don't want to cause harm with the salt (Sodium Chloride).

4) Oh yeah I have added another 50 lb bag of oyster shell to my sand and gravel filters too.
All other tests I do are spot on. Thanks again for all the help!

1) your opinion on Calcium Chloride.

It is great stuff. Be sure to read the good info and instructions on the thread, calcium chloride to lower pH.


2) I bought a much better quality UV bulb to help with my green water issue and have put quilt batting at the bottom of all my falls and in my skimmer basket. I have worked my butt off rinsing out all the collected algae. My water is clear to the bottom (3ft.). I have some rocks that are starting to grow a new round of algae which at this point its no problem at all. In order to raise my KH, I have been doing like you said and adding 17 oz. once every 24 hrs. to my goal of 9-11 drops. I've done this four times so far and my KH is at (9) drops 161. My GH is still at (4). Not sure if I should raise that or not? My PH today was about 8.8.

It's all good. I like what I am reading there. :claphands:

The pH is a little on the high side, but I think it does not need to be address just yet. Although, since it is high, then I would continue to check the pH in the evenings every day or other day, whatever you're comfortable with doing, to be sure it does not reach 9.0 or higher. If it does reach 9.0 or higher, then I would start doing two or three doses of calcium chloride, not all at once though, as described in the hyperlink above.

Water only has the nutrients in it that is introduced to the water. This means that the proper nutrients will not all of sudden appear over time, which is what some of the organic folk want to think. There needs to be a source to the nutrients in order for it to appear and fish food is no where near enough.

The low GH, that is the measure of mineral content, could be a problem to the health of your fish, plants, and bio-filter since all of these critters need a good mineral content to thrive.

Calcium carbonate products, such as oyster shells, will improve the GH some due to the shell's calcium contribution. Also, you could look into getting other calcium carbonate products, such as crushed coral or lithaqua, which also contains other micronutrients. When potting your plants, look into using some Laterite, which is a plant medium for aquatic plants, and also Laterite is full of beneficial micronutrients that absorb into the water. Another good product is Ultimate Koi Clay, which is a calcium montmorillonite mineral clay. You can also use Epsom salt (at 8 ounces or 1 pound per 1,000 gallons), which is magnesium sulfate and is very healthy for the pond, but I would only add this product sparingly since the pond can have too much magnesium that could interfere with your plants. Then, of course, calcium chloride, which is an excellent source of calcium to prevent your pH from going too high and is quite healthy to the pond.

You might be fine without worrying about your GH, but, if your pH gets any higher, then I would definitely dose the water with some calcium. If ya do not want to wait, then it would be perfectly fine to do a dose and then observe as to how the water reacts. You might just only need one dose.


3) A friend found a bag of Road Runner Ice Melt and gave it to me a few days ago. It is a blend of Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, and Magnesium Chloride. Now I think you suggested getting as close to pure calcium chloride as possible and so I have found a brand called Briners Choice food grade. Which should I use? We have plants in our 2600 Gal. pond and I don't want to cause harm with the salt (Sodium Chloride).

Sounds like an interesting product except for the Sodium Chloride, which is table salt and is what folks use to raise their pond's salinity. I would be careful with anything that has sodium chloride. To know more why, then read is salt (sodium chloride) healthy for the pond?. Also, with those specialized ice melth products, I would make sure it does not have other additives in it as described in the thread, what kind of salt?.

I did some research on the Briners Choice, calcium chloride, food grade, and the ingredient list tells me it is good stuff and also did some research on a couple coral reef forums and they recommended it as well. In my search, if you're more scentificly inclined to understand more, here is an interesting article I stumbled across on at the Advanced Aquarist website, article titled Purity of Calcium Chloride.


4) Oh yeah I have added another 50 lb bag of oyster shell to my sand and gravel filters too.

Very nice!! :banana: The more the marrier. :blueflower:

 

[campingcreecher]

tested this morning and PH was 8.2, KH was (8) drops 143.2, and GH was 3.

Its funny when we had the smaller pond we never tested for KH & GH or even Nitrate. Never had a fish to die from any sickness or disease. Though I did see a Hawk fly off with one of my beautiful babies and a Heron standing over looking for breakfast. All of which started the rebuild. Maybe I'm just trying to be too perfect with the water. The fish seem perfectly happy and healthy.

I think I will order some Briners Choice and not use the Road Runner that was given to me. Just don't want the Sodium Chloride. I will look into finding some Koi Clay too. I really appreciate all of your help. Have a great weekend! :cheerful:

 

[crsublette]

Excellent! Baking soda is doing its job.


Now, in regards to "is this stuff really necessary?" ...

Well, Nature can be extremely efficient with what it is given so to survive, but some people are not so lucky.

Plants do their absolute best to survive and produce seed with what they are given. The plants might not look good nor produce much, but they will still produce something. Fish, such as goldfish and koi carp, are actually quite hardy as well. They can survive quite a bit. Our pond is like a vegetable garden. Tomatoes do not need much to yield just a single tomatoe, but, if we want them to truely provide us with something amazing, then proper care must be given to them.

As fish are something with an immune system, then this means there is always something in their environment that is constantly attacking them.

And they are our pets and we do the best we can for our pets. We can get by just only feeding the family cat the cheap kibble, maybe clean the litter box once a month, give some water, and the cat will survive well enough and might be happy for a good long while. I know my farm cats are doing just fine and they get treated no better than my indoor cat and my indoor cat is given all of the good food, shelter with an A/C, etc, since I guess I should keep her around for a while for my mom. Indoor cat named "Lucky" since she was dang lucky for my mom to get attached to her enough to persuade me to make her an indoor cat and the cat bugs the hell out of me especially when her food bowl is empty and is my dang alarm clock at 5 in the morning. :bdaybiggrin:

We are simply just creating an environment that best benefits our pets immune system so they can truely thrive beyond just surviving, continue to give us amazing companionship and colors, grow quite well, and hopefully stay around for 40 years or so, that is assuming some disease, parasite, infection, or farm cat does not grab them first. :cheerful:


Unfortunately, fish are on the low end of the totem pole as far as good healthcare from the veterinarian profession. Very few veterinarians are educated in dealing with them. So, hobbyists do their best to educate each other. K.O.I is a good repository of some quite knoweledgeable veterinarians and other smart hobbyists out there that are doing their best to address any ailments, recommend appropriate medications, and how to patch particular wounds. As far as I am aware, the same practices can also be performed on goldfish in regards to bacterial and parasitic infections and to aid in healing a wound on the fish.

Also, koiphen.com have some extremely serious hobbyists especially when it comes down to treating sick fish. There are plenty of very knowledgeable folk on this forum as well.

Folk probably will get aggravated at me, but, in regards to my fish, I take more of a shotgun approach. Heck, I would eat them if they made a better filet. Heck, even with this dang cat... aaahh, i would not go that far. :bdaybiggrin:

 

[campingcreecher]

Excellent! Baking soda is doing its job.


Now, in regards to "is this stuff really necessary?" ...

Well, Nature can be extremely efficient with what it is given so to survive, but some people are not so lucky.

Plants do their absolute best to survive and produce seed with what they are given. The plants might not look good nor produce much, but they will still produce something. Fish, such as goldfish and koi carp, are actually quite hardy as well. They can survive quite a bit. Our pond is like a vegetable garden. Tomatoes do not need much to yield just a single tomatoe, but, if we want them to truely provide us with something amazing, then proper care must be given to them.

As fish are something with an immune system, then this means there is always something in their environment that is constantly attacking them.

And they are our pets and we do the best we can for our pets. We can get by just only feeding the family cat the cheap kibble, maybe clean the litter box once a month, give some water, and the cat will survive well enough and might be happy for a good long while. I know my farm cats are doing just fine and they get treated no better than my indoor cat and my indoor cat is given all of the good food, shelter with an A/C, etc, since I guess I should keep her around for a while for my mom. Indoor cat named "Lucky" since she was dang lucky for my mom to get attached to her enough to persuade me to make her an indoor cat and the cat bugs the hell out of me especially when her food bowl is empty and is my dang alarm clock at 5 in the morning. :bdaybiggrin:

We are simply just creating an environment that best benefits our pets immune system so they can truely thrive beyond just surviving, continue to give us amazing companionship and colors, grow quite well, and hopefully stay around for 40 years or so, that is assuming some disease, parasite, infection, or farm cat does not grab them first. :cheerful:


Unfortunately, fish are on the low end of the totem pole as far as good healthcare from the veterinarian profession. Very few veterinarians are educated in dealing with them. So, hobbyists do their best to educate each other. K.O.I is a good repository of some quite knoweledgeable veterinarians and other smart hobbyists out there that are doing their best to address any ailments, recommend appropriate medications, and how to patch particular wounds. As far as I am aware, the same practices can also be performed on goldfish in regards to bacterial and parasitic infections and to aid in healing a wound on the fish.

Also, koiphen.com have some extremely serious hobbyists especially when it comes down to treating sick fish. There are plenty of very knowledgeable folk on this forum as well.

Folk probably will get aggravated at me, but, in regards to my fish, I take more of a shotgun approach. Heck, I would eat them if they made a better filet. Heck, even with this dang cat... aaahh, i would not go that far. :bdaybiggrin:

You are hilarious! Cowboys eat fish? We have had some great advice from Birdman from koiphen. I'm blown away with the knowledge so many have and totally bless at how quick to help, so many are on these forums. You should write a book.

 

[addy1]

Bridman has a beautiful, perfect water, koi pond, unreal filtration setup. His koi are beautiful too. He has a ton of knowledge and willing shares.

My set up is on the garden side..............way on the garden side, plants, fish, snails, anything that wants to live in the water is welcome. I don't really obsess about the fish or the water, once it balanced out with the oyster shells. When I was adding baking soda trying to get the ph up I was having ph swings, the one thing the oyster shells/plants/bog have done is keep the ph a nice 7.6 or so.
I had one dead fish this spring, think a spawning death. When the fish come begging for food I try to see any growth, bumps, sores, so far nothing. No koi

One thing I planned for with this pond, was ease of care, basically in the summer I do almost nothing to care for it. Clean out a leaf basket now and then, groom the lilies now and then. Feed the fish now and then, other than that just enjoy it.

Winter pull the pump, spring put the pump back outside, that is the most "work" I do. I went to net the bottom, figure it had been a year plus since done, figured I should, got about a 1/2 gallon of muck doing 1/2 the pond, so quit not enough there to bother with.

 

[crsublette]

It takes very little for the fish to simply survive and appear happy.


Maintenance all depends on how the ponds are built, definitely where they are built, and the owner's desires for the pond.


At the end of the day, Oyster shells actually is the same product as baking soda. Baking soda stabilizes the low range pH swings exactly like Oyster shells. The bicarbonate released by both products are the same product. The only difference is oyster shells requires carbonic acid to release bicarbonate and it also provides calcium. As the pH gets closer to 8.3~8.5, there is much less soluble carbonic acid available to dissolve the shell product.

Oyster shells is calcium carbonate, which is CaCO3. When this product comes into contact with carbonic acid (H2CO3), this product breaks apart into free soluble Calcium (Ca++) and two soluble bicarbonate (HCO3). Baking soda is simply just sodium and one bicarbonate, but, since sodium is just an electrolyte type of element, baking soda does not require an acid to release the bicarbonate into the water.

Positives and negative of oyster shells is that it is slow to dissolve. It is a positive since there will always be shells in the water slowly dissolving into the water. It is a negative since their will always be shells in the water, which means there is product not dissolved into the water. This is how oyster shells maintains a pH equilibrium lower than 8.3~8.5. This is why there is always tremendously more oyster shells required than baking soda. This is a very well known fact in the aquarium hobby and is why there are special reactors used to dissolve the oyster shells so to reduce the volume of the product.

The nice thing about oyster shells is there is also calcium and possibly other micronutrients released into the water.

 

[crsublette]

The negative of only using baking soda, which is sodium bicarbonate, is that it does contain sodium and sodium lingers in the water until it is removed with a water change just like any other salt. Unlike the chlorides, the sodium is not consumed by plants. So, if you are primarily using baking soda, then you will need to maintain a water change schedule. The volume of water changes depends on how much baking soda you are using.

For an interesting side point, Zeolite rock, which is commonly used to absorb toxic ammonia, actually releases sodium chloride into the water and this exchange of ions is how Zeolite absorbs toxic ammonia into the rock. Also, as the sodium levels increases, then the Zeolite will release the absorbed ammonia and start absorbing the sodium. So, there is a little equilibrium dance that happens here as well.

Many fertilizer products and other gardening products and pond store products and plant mediums also release various concentrations of sodium into the water. Also, an individual's source water can have a sodium salinity ranging from anywhere between .02% to .18% and, due to evaporation, this concentration will increase in the pond.

Water changes is a very natural event, but, since our ponds have a rubber liner, this event is not allowed to happen naturally unless there is significant heavy rain fall. So, simply just around 5~10% weekly water change is more than enough to imitate this natural event to replenish particular minerals, but there might be occasions where a bigger water change, at least 40%, will need to be done twice a year to remove the sodium and other potential contanimants.

There are alternatives to baking soda, but the alternatives are double the price tag or more than baking soda.


Water changes are just important to do no matter whose pond it is. Either there is a significant water change that occurs with rain fall or by other means.