Good point.Disagree with more sucking power with the BD hooked directly to the pump. If pump would be located in the same position no matter where it's sucking from there should be no difference in flow
Good point.Disagree with more sucking power with the BD hooked directly to the pump. If pump would be located in the same position no matter where it's sucking from there should be no difference in flow
I think Sacrimento Koi has some nice pics/diagrams on how to setup a pond & might have better pics on what to do & not to do. They sell the larger canister filters among other things......
That was the one thing I left out of notes - the number of fish...sorry about that. From what I've read my 1,500 pond is right at the minimal limit for Koi and I've decided that I would rather have Koi over goldfish. So, I am planning on Koi and not many of them. I'll probably get several small ones at first and go from there with, when they are a couple of years old and bigger, having maybe just 2 or 3 I guess.My main thought is 1] what kind of fish do you both wish to keep
2] the number of fish.
I agree 100% with interaction being important. It's the difference between pets and dinner. However, I kept Koi and Goldfish in the same pond once and I think the Goldfish are way more personal. The Koi couldn't seem to see the food, more of a just start chomping at the surface and hope to get some food. Large Goldfish kind of did that too. The Koi just seem a bit more mindless about the whole thing. Goldfish seem to target food pellets and seem to watch me too, like eye contact. I'll sure hear it from the Koi lovers.The biggest reason I lean towards koi over goldfish is that I've read that they, koi, are better at being trained to be used to people and even hand fed. To me, that is more fun than a bunch of goldfish that won't have that interaction.
Lot cheaper. Set it next to the drain and it'll work just as well, sets up the same current. For the actual drain I use regular 3" or 4" ABS or PVC, no bolting flange for me. You can dig the trench, lay the liner over the trench and lay the pipe in the trench so the pipe is inside the liner. Run the pipe up the pond side and exit through the liner maybe 12" below the water surface. Then you can use a hose clamp to seal the liner against the pipe, I think it's called a pipe boot, but there's other things called that too. Easy and cheap. And if you ever have a leak the most you'll loose is 12" of water, fish live, and a heck of a lot easier to fix. Although I've actually heard of either of these leaking, but I'm sure they can.Maybe I just come up with a separate diffuser of some kind.
Sieve filter. Nothing else is even close. Easy and cheap to make, just a bit of careful planning needed. Doesn't stop muck, most filters don't. But the sieve can keep stuff from becoming muck.Back to the BD-to-the-pump question...what are the options for a small/cheep/simple filter to prevent the leaves and muck from making their way into the filter? Maybe a plastic tote, set at appropriate water-level height, gravity fed with some kind of media mats (cheep furnace filters?) to catch the leaves?
I kinda prefer the looks of koi over goldfish also. That's not to say that I dislike goldfish. Is it realistically OK to have some of both?I like Koi for their size and colors.
By placing the pipe in the trenched liner you create a rut where muck and such can settle. I know its unrealistic for there to never be muck and the desire is to remove all of the muck...I'm assuming that what would gather in that trench would be acceptable?Lot cheaper. Set it next to the drain and it'll work just as well, sets up the same current. For the actual drain I use regular 3" or 4" ABS or PVC, no bolting flange for me. You can dig the trench, lay the liner over the trench and lay the pipe in the trench so the pipe is inside the liner. Run the pipe up the pond side and exit through the liner maybe 12" below the water surface. Then you can use a hose clamp to seal the liner against the pipe, I think it's called a pipe boot, but there's other things called that too. Easy and cheap. And if you ever have a leak the most you'll loose is 12" of water, fish live, and a heck of a lot easier to fix. Although I've actually heard of either of these leaking, but I'm sure they can.
Any URLs to some good and detailed DIY sieve filters?Sieve filter. Nothing else is even close. Easy and cheap to make, just a bit of careful planning needed. Doesn't stop muck, most filters don't. But the sieve can keep stuff from becoming muck.
You pour mortar over the pipe. Brings the trench level with the liner.By placing the pipe in the trenched liner you create a rut where muck and such can settle. I know its unrealistic for there to never be muck and the desire is to remove all of the muck...I'm assuming that what would gather in that trench would be acceptable?
The pipe boot thing was created by Greg Bickal. Google "Bickal pipe boot" for more info.Do you have pics of your "hose pipe clamping liner to the pipe" connection? Seems to me it would be difficult to have a completely flat layer of liner when trying to form it to the pipe's shape.
I haven't seen any. Really just a screen on the pond overflow. The commercial ones, and some DIY, have a floating weir which is really a problem. But the floating weir is only need on ponds with a fluctuating water level. So designing so the pond overflows makes the sieve easy.Any URLs to some good and detailed DIY sieve filters?
...the 4in pipe T's off to two 2in pipes that enter this stock tank
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