Pond build, Question 1

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I like the rounded wall but how are you planning to build this ? The first question is how far above ground is the pond go to be? If you have earth behind the wall rebar is no longer crucial but it is a good insurance policy. So yes rebar goes with Hollow block. The round will cost double the amount of time and money as each block is either cut on both sides on an angle or just on one side.
Any mason who can construct that will have no issue rounding the corners but will be an issue for the welded box I would think. But even if the corners were 45 degree angles that will help greatly with circulation.

Sitting at the airport I'm glad you have asked questions gives me something to do. I better get all my questions over quickly ;)
I will talk to the the bricklayer on how we can add round the corners to pond and most cost effective way to do it.

The boxed liner company indicated they would have no problem in making the liner
 
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As to skimmers there is a company here in the states Helix " the pond digger" who has a basket that is the size of three skimmer pool baskets in height. If you had two of those even in the fall you'd have little to worry about.
One trick I did do when I was traveling and worried about the same. I would place 1.5 inch pvc caped infront of the skimmer this way it was floating. It held back the majority of the leaves and the skimmer remained functioning
I've seen the Helix, but it costs a small fortune over here. hence the design of the "strainer box"
1708790351332.png

I would remove the small baskets in skimmer and do the collection in the huge basket in the strainer box
 
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THAT MAKES MORE SENCE BUT I CAN ASURE YOUR FISH WILL MAKE INTO THE PIPE AND DOWN TO THE SKIMMER BOX. and A big one may even get stuck by the suction. I have never ben a big fan of the standard LITTLE pool skimmer for koi ponds. What i would look at would be an over sized pipe like a 3 inch pipe the just comes up from below up to the surface and stops just below the targeted height , then the water is taking off from the surface only . fish would have to work at getting in trouble not just swim in.
 
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The boxed liner company indicated they would have no problem in making the liner
do they take their own numbers make up half the project then come to the build and do the last seems ?

what material are they using in the box weld is it heat gun welds , torch, or chemical?
 
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I'm not sure if I made it clear, but I do intend to have two shallow wide mouth surface skimmers which will be connected to the "strainer box" as well as the bottom drains, this will strain off all the big stuff before going to the pump and settlement area under the bog. Or at least that's the idea i have
Just remember if one pump is running it all every extra tap reduces flow expedientialy. what i have not mentioned nor do i remeberr you saying that there will be a ball or gate valve on every pipe be it skimmers , main drains or returns
 
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I have done a change to design
the raised bog will also help to deter the great blue heron if its a two foot differance the stiking effective ness will be lessoned.
 
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i've lost whats answered and whats not , i will make note however the rhino drains do work and work well but too good? the bubbles can obscure the view of the fish i would think about the winter supply line i mentioned earlier as a line to use as i'm sitting at the pond and i want to see my fish. so make the winter air supply be coming up along the outside wall this will along for air to run and you to se your fish as well as be the line for winter shut down air
 
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do they take their own numbers make up half the project then come to the build and do the last seems ?

what material are they using in the box weld is it heat gun welds , torch, or chemical?
They actually come to site and make there own templates for liner, it's 1mm Butyl Rubber. They say joints are fully welded and they do not use glue or tape.
 
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They actually come to site and make there own templates for liner, it's 1mm Butyl Rubber. They say joints are fully welded and they do not use glue or tape.
HEAT BONDED
 
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Just remember if one pump is running it all every extra tap reduces flow expedientialy. what i have not mentioned nor do i remeberr you saying that there will be a ball or gate valve on every pipe be it skimmers , main drains or returns
Depending on price I may go for two pumps each doing a bottom drain and skimmer, so there will be a little redundancy if one pump stops.

I still need to work on the details of the plumbing, currently I'm assuming I will have a gate valve on the two skimmers and main drains, and then either side of the pumps
 
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Depending on price I may go for two pumps each doing a bottom drain and skimmer, so there will be a little redundancy if one pump stops.

I still need to work on the details of the plumbing, currently I'm assuming I will have a gate valve on the two skimmers and main drains, and then either side of the pumps
In the states two drains need to be on both line for pressure relief as i have mentioned.

but two pumps is strongly advised as lower wat pumps cost less to run so two 5 k pumps are only 2/3 energy cost compaired to 1 10 k pump
 
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the raised bog will also help to deter the great blue heron if its a two foot differance the stiking effective ness will be lessoned.
We get herons here a lot. I have a net over my current pond. But I have read, I need to try it out, but if you string fine line over the pond, say 6ft in the air, just enough to string back and forth, it will deter them from flying down.

Also i have no shallow shelves in the pond, which will also make it more difficult.

if all fails I'll go back and have a net over it
 
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In the states two drains need to be on both line for pressure relief as i have mentioned.
I've just gone back and read that, interesting, I also asked another question in a different thread regarding bottom drains.

bottom drain.png

Which of these three layout should I use? In have decided on 2 drains, but I was told you can't daisy chain together as in B, they need to be on two separate pipes as in C. I may be misunderstanding you, but are you saying in the states both bottom drains have to be on the same pipe run, as with the daisy chain B ?
 
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We get herons here a lot. I have a net over my current pond. But I have read, I need to try it out, but if you string fine line over the pond, say 6ft in the air, just enough to string back and forth, it will deter them from flying down.

Also i have no shallow shelves in the pond, which will also make it more difficult.

if all fails I'll go back and have a net over it
Yeah looking through a net sucks in my eye but to each there own. take a look at this pond it is semi raised i was looking for sacramento koi the owners pond he has on three sides the side is raised like three fett above the water one side is the waterfall the other tow are planting areas and then there is the sitting area close to the house a place those birds will go but are not real comfortable doing so .
I've just gone back and read that, interesting, I also asked another question in a different thread regarding bottom drains.

View attachment 162045
Which of these three layout should I use? In have decided on 2 drains, but I was told you can't daisy chain together as in B, they need to be on two separate pipes as in C. I may be misunderstanding you, but are you saying in the states both bottom drains have to be on the same pipe run, as with the daisy chain B ?
FOR SAEFTY B. THE PROBLEM WITH B IS THE SECOND DRAIN" THE ONE AT THE END" WILL DO ALMOST NOTHING .

MOST EFFICENT BY FAR IS C
 
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