- Joined
- May 5, 2021
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 27
- Location
- Southern California
- Hardiness Zone
- 9a
- Country
Thanks for the info.. The tank has a 1” threaded fitting on one side, near the bottom. I was going to attach directly to it, however after saying that out loud , the fitting is probably too small to begin with. So, it’s over the side.. I really don’t want to cut holes in the tank/liner. The bog tank is just mocked up right now, the blocks are just sitting in dirt, it will rise about 6 inches, and of course be level, once the footing goes in. Still considering a decorative wall about 4 ft tall between the bog and the pond, maybe brick or stacked stone.Your best bet in a drain i take it is at the bottom of your galvanized container. Just because yor putting in a liner does not mean you have to eliminate the drain. i assume you were going to use a bulked fitting to make that water proof. well that hasn't changed because you got a liner just the type of bulked will change. Where your set up is so in the open i would lean to interrogating a bog onto your design. It is by FAR the most attractive filter you can use. And is definitely underrated. Ok i see now you already have the bog set up with a second galvanized tub . but from what i can see is you need to have at least 6 inches of side wall from the water height in the bog to the spill way. as you have it now it won't allow for to much of a drop. but no one ever said f=waterfalls need to drop 4 feet . as the higher they get the harder it is to control the splash.
If i was spending the kinda time and design your doing i would have lined the galvanized with fabric sp when condensation starts if the galvy starts to get rough the liner will be protected. i would then learn how to seam and i would make that pond wrinkle free but that is me i have had a lot of experience in doing so. You appear to be in a very hot area rubbers enemy is UV rays underwater is not as bad but exposed rubber can fail in as little as 8 years remove the uv rays and rubber can last indefinitely.
There are other materials where they can make a welded bond with is better then a epdm bond.
The key to a bog is to pump the water to the bottom of the bog but you will need to have something to break the vacuum if the power goes out so that your bog and pond don't level out a vacuum breaker available at depot lowes made of pvc for 20 bucks is all you need or even drilling a hole in the top of the pipe but facing down tot he spray of water doesn't go everywhere of gets clogged.
I looked at custom one piece liners for $600+, but I found very little on seaming your own. I actually thought of that after seeing custom sized liners. The idea seamed doable but I couldn’t find enough specific instructions / results to invest money in materials.
It does get hot here, hotter the last 3 years than ever. In the july and august months we‘ve been seeing 105 -110 degrees in the day and only dropping to 68-72 at night. Not every day, but about 40% of the time. I sure hope the sun’s radiant heat isn’t too much.. The area will be about 50% shade in the peak of the day ( 2” lattice / 2” space ) So the UV may still be an issue at the area above the waterline, but somewhat reduced at least. I could create a denser shade, but the plants would suffer, and I think plants are a must. (Even considered grow light above the pond). It may be possible to drape a scrap piece of liner all around the hard top edge to shield the real liner.
Thanks Again,
Rich…