fishin4cars
True friends just call me Larkin
Dave, Cut the bottom off of a 5 gallon bucket, works fine. Dollar stores sell the drain pans too,
Michaels dry lotus flower seeds
- Thread starter DrDave
- Start date
I liked the disposable drain pans because of the design, it looks like there is less chance for any of the sand to get out of the container and into my pond.
Besides that, with all that goes on around here with the gardening, potting, water plants etc, I need every 5 gallon bucket I can get my hands on.
Besides that, I am looking for something that is marketable. The Lotus could be huge here in So Cal.
Besides that, with all that goes on around here with the gardening, potting, water plants etc, I need every 5 gallon bucket I can get my hands on.
Besides that, I am looking for something that is marketable. The Lotus could be huge here in So Cal.
fishin4cars
True friends just call me Larkin
Might try asking around local nurseries for pots without holes, last year I found a nursery that sold me a small stack for $1 each. For marketing them I don't think oil pans are going to be a good choice, you'll want something taller so you can take them out and sell them, I would look and see if I could find some kind of pot that is at least 12" across or bigger, the bigger around the better as many of your customers will probably not want to re-pot them so You'll need one that they can plant straight in the pond or set down into a container that is more decorative.
Nova, I just pushed the seeds about 1/4-1/2 of an inch in the soil. Just enough to hold them in. I wouldn't put them in the pond with fish until they are bigger. You can put them in a laundry tub or cooler for a few weeks until the roots are set in better. Or some kind of plastic chicken fence around it to protect them.
As for the drain pans. Are you looking at the ones with the drain tube and slight inside lip? The no-drip kind? I don't think those are cheap. The cheaper 1$ ones are just an open circle.
As for the drain pans. Are you looking at the ones with the drain tube and slight inside lip? The no-drip kind? I don't think those are cheap. The cheaper 1$ ones are just an open circle.
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Some lotus growing information:
lotus seed
Growing lotuses (Nelumbo) can be easy and fun either from tuber or from seed. If you grow from tuber, you will have an exact duplicate of the parent, in many cases a named cultivar. If growing from seed, please keep in mind that, even if a name comes with the seeds, the offspring will be quite variable because of the genetics involved and they can't retain the cultivar name.
Raising Nelumbo Seedlings
The fish hook bend in the leaf stem slowly straightens out while the stem continues to grow until it is at least eight to fifteen inches long. Consequently, because the stem is fairly stiff, the leaf may be pushed out of the water if the depth is less than eight inches. With a moderate water depth, the leaf stem will start to bend over and push the leaf horizontally just beneath the surface. For deeper water the stem will continue to grow vertically until the leaf reaches the surface. At that point, the inrolled leaf begins to grow and expand until it floats flat on the water. The leaf diameter will be between one and two inches. The period of time to reach this stage is about ten days after sprouting. After the leaf has unfurled, the stem does not readily accommodate water level changes, so if you intend to transplant the lotus later into a pond, the new water depth should be similar.
The seedling can be planted or potted at this stage, but since the roots have generally not yet formed, it isn't necessary. Nevertheless, one should keep an eye on the unplanted seedling for root inauguration. Planting the seedling before or at the beginning of root growth prevents subsequent root damage. The seed contains enough food to sustain itself without extra nutrition until after the first four floating leaves have formed, about 30 days after the seed has sprouted.
If the seedling is to be potted before being set out into its final location, the pot should have a surface diameter of at least eight inches. The height need not be more than about five inches; however, anything larger is always beneficial. The reason for this is that while the first four leaves are forming, the Nelumbo starts developing a rhizome which needs to run several inches before the next leaves are formed. If the edge of the container is reached before this happens, the growth of the plant can be distorted. If the rhizome is not deflected to the right or left (which is often the case), the rhizome growth will push the plant center out of the soil. If the rhizome is deflected to the right or left, the growth will circle the container if it is round. If square, the potential for uprooting will repeat at every corner.
Growing On The Nelumbo Seedlings
After the first four floating leaves are formed, the plant spreads by forming rhizomes with one leaf appearing at each internode. Side shoots occasionally appear at the internodes which allow for lateral spreading. The leaf diameters progressively increase and eventually are lifted clear of the water surface. In some instances during the first year of growth, the plant may pass through a temporary resting period. In these cases, growth ceases, the leaves turn yellow and the plant appears to be dying. This is a perfectly normal development for these plants during which the rhizome thickens to form a small banana shaped tuber. The plant then remains dormant for about three weeks when it starts growth again with renewed vigor if the water is warm.
During the first year of growth, only leaves are produced in most cases. Flowers are not generally produced until the second year. As the days get shorter in autumn, the leading rhizomes grow deep underground and form large resting tubers where they wait out the winter. All the leaves turn brown and only the resting tubers remains alive to start growth again the next spring.
Lotus tubers can be planted two different ways:
First, if the tuber is going to be placed in an earth-bottom pond and lotus is wanted to take over the entire pond from 1-to-4 inches of water depth, simply plant the tuber in the bottom of the earthen pond.
Second, and as most of our customers prefer, the tuber can be planted in a container, pot, ornamental face or bowl, whiskey barrel, etc. Lotus tubers can be planted in almost any type of no-hole container. Make sure to ALWAYS plant the lotus tuber in a sturdy NO-HOLE CONTAINER. If the tuber is planted in a regular pot with holes it will find the holes and come out of the pot, which could cause a mess or cause lotus to not perform at all. This container you use needs to be at least 2 gallons on up to a 50-gallon or bigger depending on the size of lotus plant.
We have used 2-gallon mixing bowls from the dollar store before, for the smaller varieties, but they are not usually made of high quality so they are only good for about one year.
Another container that we use a lot for the bigger varieties is large black cattle feeder containers, which were used to haul molasses for cattle to eat. They can probably hold about 30 to 40 gallons. These containers can be seen out in the country where ranchers and cattle owners use them and are usually more than happy to get rid of some of the extra. Horse feeding containers can also be used; as well as: oil catch pans, old large kitchen pots, regular five-gallon buckets, or what ever you come up with. Just remember to be sure that they are sturdy and will not crack or break while the lotus plant is growing.
One may also purchase a lotus pot from about any water garden store. Whatever type of container is used, it needs to be at least 6 inches deep and at least 12 inches wide.
Take the lotus-growing container and put in the dirt. We use regular old dirt, topsoil, yard dirt, ditch dirt, etc. The best dirt to get is river bottom dirt, which usually will have a lot of nutrients in it. One can usually get free dirt somewhere like in a yard, or near a ditch, or construction site, etc. The best ratio is about 60% clay and 40% sand, but almost any type of soil will work. The more sand in the dirt, the more it will have to be fertilized. Place the dirt in the container almost filling it up but leave about 1-to-4 inches from the top depending on the size of the container. Then, install the container in the pond. Be sure to place the container in the pond before adding water because it will sure be a lot lighter. Once water is over the dirt go ahead and plant the tuber.
The lotus tuber should be planted in the horizontal position with the cut part or back part of the tuber next to the wall of the container letting the beginning, or growing point, of the stem go in the direction of the center of the container. The tuber should be eased down into the mud just enough to anchor it—the higher, the better. Leave the growing points sticking straight up. Ideally, one will have the main part to the tuber submerged in the soil and the growing tips exposed just above the soils surface. The water surface level should be just above the growing tip, if the lotus tuber is desired to break dormancy as soon as possible. Once the plant breaks dormancy and starts showing leaves, the pot container may be eased down to the proper growing depth of the plant.
Smaller varieties will grow in 1-to-6 inches of water. Medium and large varieties will grow in 4 inches to 3 feet of water depending on the variety. Never plant the tuber at the bottom of the container. Some people simply place the lotus tube on top of the soil and use a rock or brick to anchor the lotus tuber down. If the tuber is not properly anchored by the soil or weight, it will float.
It is not recommend fertilizing the lotus before it breaks dormancy and starts to grow. Add the fertilizer pond tabs once the leaves grow to about the size of a human hand. The rule of thumb is one tab per gallon but for lotus it is recommended to use 2 tabs for smaller varieties and 4 tabs for larger varieties every 3-to-4 weeks.
Pond tabs are specifically made for aquatic plants. Any old type of fertilizer is not recommended. We have tried that and lost out big time and I mean big time, loosing entire crops using the wrong fertilizer. Some other no-no’s are over-fertilizing and fertilizing the lotus before breaking dormancy. They just are too finicky and fragile while in the dormant state.
Okay, now you have a growing lotus. The lotus leaves are going to grow well above the water surface and the blooms will rise above the leaves. When the lotus is growing, a fertilization and bug control program is in order. Fertilize every 3-to-4 weeks while the lotus is growing. Lotus leaves attract aphids and caterpillars. So we dust our lotus plants with Sevin Dust Bug Killer. Frequent light applications are the way to go. Do not ever put liquid spray on the lotus leaves. This will fry the leaves just like pouring gasoline on them.
The plant may need some shade if located in a real hot climate. Once temperatures get above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the leaves do not like it if in direct sunlight. The lotus will usually grow until the end of summer. Then the plant will appear to be dieing or drying up. Don’t be alarmed when this occurs. It’s just one of the lotus’s life cycles. They need to go dormant to survive. At this time is when the lotus starts “tubering” up for the winter.
When the leaves go down, all that will be left is a lotus pod where the flower used to bloom. People use the lotus pod for all kinds of decorations. If lucky, there will be some fertile seeds left in the center of the pod. One can do all sort of neat things with the seeds, Oriental Tee's, Indian Bread, or one can grow the seed out for next year. No telling what you are going to get, maybe a new variety.
People eat the lotus tubes as well. Every spring, the lotus should be repotted. There is nothing like virgin soil and the root system of the leftover lotus will have taken over the entire pot causing the lotus just not perform well unless it is repotted yearly.
lotus seed
Growing lotuses (Nelumbo) can be easy and fun either from tuber or from seed. If you grow from tuber, you will have an exact duplicate of the parent, in many cases a named cultivar. If growing from seed, please keep in mind that, even if a name comes with the seeds, the offspring will be quite variable because of the genetics involved and they can't retain the cultivar name.
Raising Nelumbo Seedlings
The fish hook bend in the leaf stem slowly straightens out while the stem continues to grow until it is at least eight to fifteen inches long. Consequently, because the stem is fairly stiff, the leaf may be pushed out of the water if the depth is less than eight inches. With a moderate water depth, the leaf stem will start to bend over and push the leaf horizontally just beneath the surface. For deeper water the stem will continue to grow vertically until the leaf reaches the surface. At that point, the inrolled leaf begins to grow and expand until it floats flat on the water. The leaf diameter will be between one and two inches. The period of time to reach this stage is about ten days after sprouting. After the leaf has unfurled, the stem does not readily accommodate water level changes, so if you intend to transplant the lotus later into a pond, the new water depth should be similar.
The seedling can be planted or potted at this stage, but since the roots have generally not yet formed, it isn't necessary. Nevertheless, one should keep an eye on the unplanted seedling for root inauguration. Planting the seedling before or at the beginning of root growth prevents subsequent root damage. The seed contains enough food to sustain itself without extra nutrition until after the first four floating leaves have formed, about 30 days after the seed has sprouted.
If the seedling is to be potted before being set out into its final location, the pot should have a surface diameter of at least eight inches. The height need not be more than about five inches; however, anything larger is always beneficial. The reason for this is that while the first four leaves are forming, the Nelumbo starts developing a rhizome which needs to run several inches before the next leaves are formed. If the edge of the container is reached before this happens, the growth of the plant can be distorted. If the rhizome is not deflected to the right or left (which is often the case), the rhizome growth will push the plant center out of the soil. If the rhizome is deflected to the right or left, the growth will circle the container if it is round. If square, the potential for uprooting will repeat at every corner.
Growing On The Nelumbo Seedlings
After the first four floating leaves are formed, the plant spreads by forming rhizomes with one leaf appearing at each internode. Side shoots occasionally appear at the internodes which allow for lateral spreading. The leaf diameters progressively increase and eventually are lifted clear of the water surface. In some instances during the first year of growth, the plant may pass through a temporary resting period. In these cases, growth ceases, the leaves turn yellow and the plant appears to be dying. This is a perfectly normal development for these plants during which the rhizome thickens to form a small banana shaped tuber. The plant then remains dormant for about three weeks when it starts growth again with renewed vigor if the water is warm.
During the first year of growth, only leaves are produced in most cases. Flowers are not generally produced until the second year. As the days get shorter in autumn, the leading rhizomes grow deep underground and form large resting tubers where they wait out the winter. All the leaves turn brown and only the resting tubers remains alive to start growth again the next spring.
Lotus tubers can be planted two different ways:
First, if the tuber is going to be placed in an earth-bottom pond and lotus is wanted to take over the entire pond from 1-to-4 inches of water depth, simply plant the tuber in the bottom of the earthen pond.
Second, and as most of our customers prefer, the tuber can be planted in a container, pot, ornamental face or bowl, whiskey barrel, etc. Lotus tubers can be planted in almost any type of no-hole container. Make sure to ALWAYS plant the lotus tuber in a sturdy NO-HOLE CONTAINER. If the tuber is planted in a regular pot with holes it will find the holes and come out of the pot, which could cause a mess or cause lotus to not perform at all. This container you use needs to be at least 2 gallons on up to a 50-gallon or bigger depending on the size of lotus plant.
We have used 2-gallon mixing bowls from the dollar store before, for the smaller varieties, but they are not usually made of high quality so they are only good for about one year.
Another container that we use a lot for the bigger varieties is large black cattle feeder containers, which were used to haul molasses for cattle to eat. They can probably hold about 30 to 40 gallons. These containers can be seen out in the country where ranchers and cattle owners use them and are usually more than happy to get rid of some of the extra. Horse feeding containers can also be used; as well as: oil catch pans, old large kitchen pots, regular five-gallon buckets, or what ever you come up with. Just remember to be sure that they are sturdy and will not crack or break while the lotus plant is growing.
One may also purchase a lotus pot from about any water garden store. Whatever type of container is used, it needs to be at least 6 inches deep and at least 12 inches wide.
Take the lotus-growing container and put in the dirt. We use regular old dirt, topsoil, yard dirt, ditch dirt, etc. The best dirt to get is river bottom dirt, which usually will have a lot of nutrients in it. One can usually get free dirt somewhere like in a yard, or near a ditch, or construction site, etc. The best ratio is about 60% clay and 40% sand, but almost any type of soil will work. The more sand in the dirt, the more it will have to be fertilized. Place the dirt in the container almost filling it up but leave about 1-to-4 inches from the top depending on the size of the container. Then, install the container in the pond. Be sure to place the container in the pond before adding water because it will sure be a lot lighter. Once water is over the dirt go ahead and plant the tuber.
The lotus tuber should be planted in the horizontal position with the cut part or back part of the tuber next to the wall of the container letting the beginning, or growing point, of the stem go in the direction of the center of the container. The tuber should be eased down into the mud just enough to anchor it—the higher, the better. Leave the growing points sticking straight up. Ideally, one will have the main part to the tuber submerged in the soil and the growing tips exposed just above the soils surface. The water surface level should be just above the growing tip, if the lotus tuber is desired to break dormancy as soon as possible. Once the plant breaks dormancy and starts showing leaves, the pot container may be eased down to the proper growing depth of the plant.
Smaller varieties will grow in 1-to-6 inches of water. Medium and large varieties will grow in 4 inches to 3 feet of water depending on the variety. Never plant the tuber at the bottom of the container. Some people simply place the lotus tube on top of the soil and use a rock or brick to anchor the lotus tuber down. If the tuber is not properly anchored by the soil or weight, it will float.
It is not recommend fertilizing the lotus before it breaks dormancy and starts to grow. Add the fertilizer pond tabs once the leaves grow to about the size of a human hand. The rule of thumb is one tab per gallon but for lotus it is recommended to use 2 tabs for smaller varieties and 4 tabs for larger varieties every 3-to-4 weeks.
Pond tabs are specifically made for aquatic plants. Any old type of fertilizer is not recommended. We have tried that and lost out big time and I mean big time, loosing entire crops using the wrong fertilizer. Some other no-no’s are over-fertilizing and fertilizing the lotus before breaking dormancy. They just are too finicky and fragile while in the dormant state.
Okay, now you have a growing lotus. The lotus leaves are going to grow well above the water surface and the blooms will rise above the leaves. When the lotus is growing, a fertilization and bug control program is in order. Fertilize every 3-to-4 weeks while the lotus is growing. Lotus leaves attract aphids and caterpillars. So we dust our lotus plants with Sevin Dust Bug Killer. Frequent light applications are the way to go. Do not ever put liquid spray on the lotus leaves. This will fry the leaves just like pouring gasoline on them.
The plant may need some shade if located in a real hot climate. Once temperatures get above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the leaves do not like it if in direct sunlight. The lotus will usually grow until the end of summer. Then the plant will appear to be dieing or drying up. Don’t be alarmed when this occurs. It’s just one of the lotus’s life cycles. They need to go dormant to survive. At this time is when the lotus starts “tubering” up for the winter.
When the leaves go down, all that will be left is a lotus pod where the flower used to bloom. People use the lotus pod for all kinds of decorations. If lucky, there will be some fertile seeds left in the center of the pod. One can do all sort of neat things with the seeds, Oriental Tee's, Indian Bread, or one can grow the seed out for next year. No telling what you are going to get, maybe a new variety.
People eat the lotus tubes as well. Every spring, the lotus should be repotted. There is nothing like virgin soil and the root system of the leftover lotus will have taken over the entire pot causing the lotus just not perform well unless it is repotted yearly.
- Joined
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Preparing Nelumbo Seeds for Germination
[SIZE=-1]Pointed end[/SIZE] Nelumbo seeds are either round and the size of a green pea or oval and the size of a shelled peanut. One end of the seed has a sharp point which is the remains of the floral stigma. On the opposite end is a tiny dimple, a remnant of where the seed was attached to the mother plant The seed color can vary from gray to dark brown or black. The shell is very hard and consists of two layers which are tightly bonded together. Inside the shell are two paper thin brown colored seed coats which enclose the twin cream colored cotyledons. This feature is what places the Nelumbo genus into the Dicotyledon subclass of flowering plants (Angiosperms). Between the cotyledons is the Nelumbo embryo which consists of two prominent inrolled leaves with attendant stem. The leaves are doubled over against the stems because of the tight space. When the seed sprouts, the stems elongate to push the inrolled leaves up to the water surface. On the way up, the doubled over leaves straighten up and unroll after they reach the surface. There they become the round water-repellent floating leaves which are so characteristic of the Nelumbos. There are no intermediate underwater leaves that are typical for the waterlily family (Nymphaeaceae). This is one of the many reasons for the recent assignment of the Nelumbo genus into its own separate family, the Nelumbonaceae.
[SIZE=-1]Dimpled end[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Click image to enlarge[/SIZE] The inherent characteristic of the Nelumbo seed is to remain dormant for many years even if the environment is perfect for them. This resistance to germination is caused by the seedcoat which is almost impermeable to water penetration. The secret for speeding up the germination process is to remove this protective cover without harming the internal seed. Many methods of doing this have been described in the literature (including soaking in concentrated sulfuric acid for 5 hours), but the method I use is easily available to every one. The primary tool is a pair of pliers which has the usual pipe grip cutout at the business end. The pliers are used to get a firm grip on the seed within the oval pipe grip section of the pliers. The seed is very tough and you do not have to grip the seed so hard as to crack it. The seed is then rubbed along a rough surface to wear away part of the seed coat. The preferred surface is a medium grit sand paper laid flat on a table, although a concrete surface or file can be used. The optimum grit size for the sandpaper is # 80, although a finer grit (higher number) can also do the job. It just takes more rubbing and the sandpaper wears out sooner. You will then appreciate how hard the seedcoat really is.
There are two areas where the seed scouring can take place: on the side or at the dimpled end. I prefer the side because the progress of the rubbing (or sanding) is more uniformly determined. When scouring the side, rub the seed in one area only. This will produce a shiny flat surface as the rubbing proceeds. This surface should be inspected frequently to check the process of the wearing away process. At first, the surface is a uniform black color. As the rubbing proceeds, a thin white line circle or oval will appear, depending on the seed type. This indicates the breaking through of the junction between the two fused seed coats. At this point you can stop the rubbing. If you have missed this point in the rubbing process (it is sometimes difficult to see), and you continue on rubbing, you will eventually see a cream colored area coming into view in the center. If you stop here you will still have satisfactorily rubbed the seed. If the area suddenly brightens into a clear cream color with a distinct edge, it means you have broken into the cotyledon. This opens the seed to possible fungal infection. But save the seed anyhow, it may survive.
If you rub, file or sand the dimpled end, the sequential events are not so clear cut as described above because the seed structure is not as uniform. In fact, there is an irregular airspace between the seed shell and the cotyledon and you may break into it before the cotyledon is reached. This is an acceptable result for seed preparation, but not consistently attainable. Those of you who have an adventurous nature may want to attempt this route. As a further comment, this is the seed end where the seedling emerges from the shell.
After the above preparation, the seed is placed into a container of water. I find clear plastic cups work out well. Place the cups with the seeds in a warm place where the water will remain between 70 and 90 F. Temporary movements outside this range will do no harm; however, the cooled temperatures will delay the sprouting and growth rate of the seedling.
The first thing you will notice after a few hours is a change in the color of the water: it will either turn a clear tan color or cloudy white. The cloudy color is caused by bacteria feeding on the exudation from the seed. If the water is not replaced, a thin scum will form on the water surface. The rapidity at which this occurs depends upon the container size; the greater the water volume, the less the effect. Nevertheless, the water should be changed and container walls scrubbed to keep the environment reasonably clean. I have not seen where slightly cloudy water harms healthy seeds, but I haven't tested the limits. When the water starts out with a clear tan color, it seems to suppress the bacterial influx.
The second thing you will notice is the swelling of the seed to almost double in volume. In some cases the seed coat will exhibit irregular bulges; this is normal. The seed coat becomes soft and has the texture of leather. This process usually occurs within a day or two, but for some seed it may take up to a week. This expansion is produced by the cotyledons as they take up water. In a few cases, the seed may float to the surface of the water.
After the swelling is completed, there will be a period of no activity as the seed thinks about whether or not to burst out from its shell. This can happen anywhere from one day to several weeks.
When the Nelumbo seed sprouts, the two cotyledons separate as if on a hinge at the dimpled end of the seed. The folded over stem of the green embryo can then be seen between them. The folded stem grows out of the seed shell and pulls the inrolled first leaf after it. At this stage of growth the seedling looks like a sharply bent fish hook with the inrolled leaves imitating the barb.
< Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Raising Nelumbo Seedlings
The fish hook bend in the leaf stem slowly straightens out while the stem continues to grow until it is at least eight to fifteen inches long. Consequently, because the stem is fairly stiff, the leaf may be pushed out of the water if the depth is less than eight inches. With a moderate water depth, the leaf stem will start to bend over and push the leaf horizontally just beneath the surface. For deeper water the stem will continue to grow vertically until the leaf reaches the surface. At that point, the inrolled leaf begins to grow and expand until it floats flat on the water. The leaf diameter will be between one and two inches. The period of time to reach this stage is about ten days after sprouting. After the leaf has unfurled, the stem does not readily accommodate water level changes, so if you intend to transplant the lotus later into a pond, the new water depth should be similar.
The seedling can be planted or potted at this stage, but since the roots have generally not yet formed, it isn't necessary. Nevertheless, one should keep an eye on the unplanted seedling for root inauguration. Planting the seedling before or at the beginning of root growth prevents subsequent root damage. The seed contains enough food to sustain itself without extra nutrition until after the first four floating leaves have formed, about 30 days after the seed has sprouted.
If the seedling is to be potted before being set out into its final location, the pot should have a surface diameter of at least eight inches. The height need not be more than about five inches; however, anything larger is always beneficial. The reason for this is that while the first four leaves are forming, the Nelumbo starts developing a rhizome which needs to run several inches before the next leaves are formed. If the edge of the container is reached before this happens, the growth of the plant can be distorted. If the rhizome is not deflected to the right or left (which is often the case), the rhizome growth will push the plant center out of the soil. If the rhizome is deflected to the right or left, the growth will circle the container if it is round. If square, the potential for uprooting will repeat at every corner.
[SIZE=-1]Pointed end[/SIZE] Nelumbo seeds are either round and the size of a green pea or oval and the size of a shelled peanut. One end of the seed has a sharp point which is the remains of the floral stigma. On the opposite end is a tiny dimple, a remnant of where the seed was attached to the mother plant The seed color can vary from gray to dark brown or black. The shell is very hard and consists of two layers which are tightly bonded together. Inside the shell are two paper thin brown colored seed coats which enclose the twin cream colored cotyledons. This feature is what places the Nelumbo genus into the Dicotyledon subclass of flowering plants (Angiosperms). Between the cotyledons is the Nelumbo embryo which consists of two prominent inrolled leaves with attendant stem. The leaves are doubled over against the stems because of the tight space. When the seed sprouts, the stems elongate to push the inrolled leaves up to the water surface. On the way up, the doubled over leaves straighten up and unroll after they reach the surface. There they become the round water-repellent floating leaves which are so characteristic of the Nelumbos. There are no intermediate underwater leaves that are typical for the waterlily family (Nymphaeaceae). This is one of the many reasons for the recent assignment of the Nelumbo genus into its own separate family, the Nelumbonaceae.
[SIZE=-1]Dimpled end[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Click image to enlarge[/SIZE] The inherent characteristic of the Nelumbo seed is to remain dormant for many years even if the environment is perfect for them. This resistance to germination is caused by the seedcoat which is almost impermeable to water penetration. The secret for speeding up the germination process is to remove this protective cover without harming the internal seed. Many methods of doing this have been described in the literature (including soaking in concentrated sulfuric acid for 5 hours), but the method I use is easily available to every one. The primary tool is a pair of pliers which has the usual pipe grip cutout at the business end. The pliers are used to get a firm grip on the seed within the oval pipe grip section of the pliers. The seed is very tough and you do not have to grip the seed so hard as to crack it. The seed is then rubbed along a rough surface to wear away part of the seed coat. The preferred surface is a medium grit sand paper laid flat on a table, although a concrete surface or file can be used. The optimum grit size for the sandpaper is # 80, although a finer grit (higher number) can also do the job. It just takes more rubbing and the sandpaper wears out sooner. You will then appreciate how hard the seedcoat really is.
There are two areas where the seed scouring can take place: on the side or at the dimpled end. I prefer the side because the progress of the rubbing (or sanding) is more uniformly determined. When scouring the side, rub the seed in one area only. This will produce a shiny flat surface as the rubbing proceeds. This surface should be inspected frequently to check the process of the wearing away process. At first, the surface is a uniform black color. As the rubbing proceeds, a thin white line circle or oval will appear, depending on the seed type. This indicates the breaking through of the junction between the two fused seed coats. At this point you can stop the rubbing. If you have missed this point in the rubbing process (it is sometimes difficult to see), and you continue on rubbing, you will eventually see a cream colored area coming into view in the center. If you stop here you will still have satisfactorily rubbed the seed. If the area suddenly brightens into a clear cream color with a distinct edge, it means you have broken into the cotyledon. This opens the seed to possible fungal infection. But save the seed anyhow, it may survive.
If you rub, file or sand the dimpled end, the sequential events are not so clear cut as described above because the seed structure is not as uniform. In fact, there is an irregular airspace between the seed shell and the cotyledon and you may break into it before the cotyledon is reached. This is an acceptable result for seed preparation, but not consistently attainable. Those of you who have an adventurous nature may want to attempt this route. As a further comment, this is the seed end where the seedling emerges from the shell.
After the above preparation, the seed is placed into a container of water. I find clear plastic cups work out well. Place the cups with the seeds in a warm place where the water will remain between 70 and 90 F. Temporary movements outside this range will do no harm; however, the cooled temperatures will delay the sprouting and growth rate of the seedling.
The first thing you will notice after a few hours is a change in the color of the water: it will either turn a clear tan color or cloudy white. The cloudy color is caused by bacteria feeding on the exudation from the seed. If the water is not replaced, a thin scum will form on the water surface. The rapidity at which this occurs depends upon the container size; the greater the water volume, the less the effect. Nevertheless, the water should be changed and container walls scrubbed to keep the environment reasonably clean. I have not seen where slightly cloudy water harms healthy seeds, but I haven't tested the limits. When the water starts out with a clear tan color, it seems to suppress the bacterial influx.
The second thing you will notice is the swelling of the seed to almost double in volume. In some cases the seed coat will exhibit irregular bulges; this is normal. The seed coat becomes soft and has the texture of leather. This process usually occurs within a day or two, but for some seed it may take up to a week. This expansion is produced by the cotyledons as they take up water. In a few cases, the seed may float to the surface of the water.After the swelling is completed, there will be a period of no activity as the seed thinks about whether or not to burst out from its shell. This can happen anywhere from one day to several weeks.
When the Nelumbo seed sprouts, the two cotyledons separate as if on a hinge at the dimpled end of the seed. The folded over stem of the green embryo can then be seen between them. The folded stem grows out of the seed shell and pulls the inrolled first leaf after it. At this stage of growth the seedling looks like a sharply bent fish hook with the inrolled leaves imitating the barb.
< Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Raising Nelumbo Seedlings
The fish hook bend in the leaf stem slowly straightens out while the stem continues to grow until it is at least eight to fifteen inches long. Consequently, because the stem is fairly stiff, the leaf may be pushed out of the water if the depth is less than eight inches. With a moderate water depth, the leaf stem will start to bend over and push the leaf horizontally just beneath the surface. For deeper water the stem will continue to grow vertically until the leaf reaches the surface. At that point, the inrolled leaf begins to grow and expand until it floats flat on the water. The leaf diameter will be between one and two inches. The period of time to reach this stage is about ten days after sprouting. After the leaf has unfurled, the stem does not readily accommodate water level changes, so if you intend to transplant the lotus later into a pond, the new water depth should be similar.
The seedling can be planted or potted at this stage, but since the roots have generally not yet formed, it isn't necessary. Nevertheless, one should keep an eye on the unplanted seedling for root inauguration. Planting the seedling before or at the beginning of root growth prevents subsequent root damage. The seed contains enough food to sustain itself without extra nutrition until after the first four floating leaves have formed, about 30 days after the seed has sprouted.
If the seedling is to be potted before being set out into its final location, the pot should have a surface diameter of at least eight inches. The height need not be more than about five inches; however, anything larger is always beneficial. The reason for this is that while the first four leaves are forming, the Nelumbo starts developing a rhizome which needs to run several inches before the next leaves are formed. If the edge of the container is reached before this happens, the growth of the plant can be distorted. If the rhizome is not deflected to the right or left (which is often the case), the rhizome growth will push the plant center out of the soil. If the rhizome is deflected to the right or left, the growth will circle the container if it is round. If square, the potential for uprooting will repeat at every corner.
taherrmann4
Tmann
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Addy nice documentation.
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Thanks, I used it when I was working on my seeds and planting the tubers.
I am amazed at how fast these plants grow. I found two large flower pots I have not used in years, will line them with plastic to plant a couple seeds in them and leave them on my patio. The rest will go in large bowls and added to the pond.
Ya. Pretty interesting watching them. Every time you check on them they've changed.
Roots underway. This is day 2 since I first saw a trace of a root growing.
Tons of fully open pads. Second pads look like they will open in a day or two since they are already at the surface.
Roots underway. This is day 2 since I first saw a trace of a root growing.
Tons of fully open pads. Second pads look like they will open in a day or two since they are already at the surface.
taherrmann4
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taherrmann4
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I think it was the raccoons as they come over at night and eat bird seed, grapes, and suet. So now I start over, this time I will bring them in at night.
j.w
I Love my Goldies
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That's sad tmann. Guess they thought you put that little snack out for them. Those little bandits are cute but they can be a pest sometimes 
You still have plenty of time to get some new ones going.
You still have plenty of time to get some new ones going.