location of winter circulation pump?

[Mmathis]

Thought I would "bump" this thread into the present.

ADDY has a couple of good articles posted -- post #8. Excellent reads, especially since we're starting to talk about winterizing.

 

[waynefrcan]

A pump placed anywhere will mix the entire water column to a uniform temperature. Only when the pond is allowed to ice over will the water temperature stratify becoming 39F at the bottom and 32F at the top. So it wouldn't matter if the pump is at the bottom, top or in between.

So keeping the ice open will normally reduce the temperature of the water to below 39F. Pretty hard to tell which is a bigger risk. Gas exchange is an issue but I think its danger is greatly over hyped in Water Gardens compared to the danger of lower water temps. When you consider the O2 need of fish at 39F, the amount of O2 held by 39F water, and that almost all bacteria have shut down there is really very little danger in a lack of gas exchange. Depends on the pond and fish load of course, but most Water Gardens can go weeks iced over and the fish will be better off as compared to keeping them in 33F water for weeks which is an actual threat.

Not correct!! All the experts say, a pump at the top circulates the top only, allowing the warmer water to stay at the bottom below the frost layer. I still agree with this theory.

My pump sits right at the surface and just bubbles over the water.

 

[sissy]

but you would have to watch that pump carefully in case of low water .I have also seen through a friend who lives in Ohio the 2010 winter his pump was a foot under water and the housing on it cracked and lucky he had it on a gfcl .He said the weather had turned bad a being he is a cop he could not get home because accidents and just the bad weather .He said it looked like the pump exploded he sent me a pic but guessing I deleted it a long time ago .

 

[waynefrcan]

It's a low profile flat pump, not worried about water level.

 

[Waterbug]

Not correct!! All the experts say, a pump at the top circulates the top only, allowing the warmer water to stay at the bottom below the frost layer. I still agree with this theory.

My pump sits right at the surface and just bubbles over the water.

Really, all the experts? Wow, I stand corrected. Please, by all means, add a pump.

I guess the university type people who's studies showed wind can break down thermal stratification must be non-experts. Dumb PhDs. But to be fair, they did say wind and not pumps.

I actually do think it is possible for a pump to not disturb thermal stratification, but that petty specific stuff. Right size pump, right location, etc. Most importantly the deeper the pond the better. For most water gardens...

 

[sissy]

I do a pump but not the normal way in my pond during the winter and the hose just stays under the water making bubbles and in pics just pulled it up to show how it works .All you see are lots of bubbles coming up .But going to change that this year to the new aerator and back up pond heater .The only reason I did that is the other aerated I had would not work in cold weather and this was the only thing i could come up with until i found a better aerator .

 

[waynefrcan]

Me too SIS!! I'm going with a Pond Master air pump and a 1500 Watt heater this winter. Forget the pump method, this should be better. Found a good deal on eBay for the Pond Master, should arrrive before the snow flys lol.

 

[addy1]

I put a pm air pump in the shallower end of the pond, about 15 feet from where the fish hang out and around 2 foot down. The little bit of icing we got never covered the pond with the air running. We did not have a bad winter like everyone else, but the winter before the pond had 8 inches of ice on it (no air running and only 4 fish) no heater is used.

 

[sissy]

I am waiting for mine to come in I went down there and the only one they had left was a used one and watched how they worked in the ponds there to see the difference.I bought the 4 outlet one and it comes with everything and a great warranty and it pushes air out really good ,Looked like a mini valcano

 

[waynefrcan]

AS usual I over did it. Bought the model that will aerate 10,000 gals lol for Only $129. I'm going to split the airflow. 50% to the deep end and 50% behind the island, as it's a dead zone. Or maybe net off the island area and have it all at the deep end.

 

[crsublette]

Even though should have been the first thing into mind, it wasn't, that is ... sure, cold water holds the most oxygen ... except ... how long will that oxygen last without being replenished ?? how does the water maintain any level of oxygen saturation when it is completely iced over?? Don't think I am going to roll the dice believing the oxygen will remain healthy under ice covered water. Good read Addy. Thanks for sharing those articles.


Give your heaters their own GFCI !! Heh, hard lesson learned last winter. I went outside to find my heater shorted, tripped the GFCI and turned off all the pumps, everything completely freezed over. Fortunately, the temps the next day were in the hi30s-lo40s, thawing out the ice just enough so I could get everything going again. Returned the heater since it was still under warranty.

 

[sissy]

I have 4 dedicated gfci circuit breakers for my pond and 8 outlets .so I have no worry's at all with that I also have them on a whole house surge protector .

 

[waynefrcan]

I haven't learned the hard way. But knew I wanted 2 seperate circuits. Glad I did.

 

[waynefrcan]

This is the aerator:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330665713828?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Cheapest price and shipping in North America.

 

[waynefrcan]

This is the heater:

http://www.ebay.com/...w-/130483618211

Great price for USA. Bought mine locally for $109. last year. It's better then standard stock tank, comes on only when needed. Yes it will sit on the bottom in deep end to warm the water as needed.