koiguys 70 gal skippy style filter

[Nakish66]

converting that 1" pipe that your using for your input plumbing (down pipe ans swirl bars as well) to 1&1/2" will benefit your filter as well. it can handle more flow but will have less pressure and slow the water movement in the bottom of your filter so the debris can settle easier and much quicker. this will make your filter flushes more effeicient and all in all keep a cleaner filter, up in the bio media where it really counts. gunked up media is not a sign of efficiency. its a sign that too much wastes are making it up past the 'sump area' at the bottom of the filter!!

My husband said he'll attempt to change it out this weekend. How long can I cut my biofilter off before the good bacteria starts to die? My filter is huge 330 gallons to be exact. It's in a 5ft tall water tote, 3 1/2 ft wide and it's 4 1/2ft long. We got a water tote a while ago that we could not pass up, We plan to use it on the bigger pond when it's built, but decided to replace our rubbermaid bin and start it up a little while ago. We got it from a guy that gets them with syrup in them and he cleans them out really good and sells them cheap. I guess my question is will the 1/2 inch make that big of a difference to go through changing it out? We are new to this, so I'm just asking before we start doing it. Thank you so much for all of your help it's much appreciated!!

 

[jason081180]

check this out. so your 3000GPH pump can only push 1200GPH thru your current 1in pipe. so your restricting your pipe now and holding it back. this can also damage your pump. changing to 1.5in would be a minimum but i would go 2in from your pump thru the rest of the filter. you would get a lot more flow and your filter would work much better.

Max Flow(GPH) Required Tubing Size(inside diameter)
300 1/2"
720 3/4"
1200 1"
3000 1-1/2"
4800 2"

graph from http://www.pondsonline.com/hints.htm under Tubing Flow Rates.

 

[CountryEscape]

Jason, that's a great point. Now I wonder why in the world my local stores only have the 1.5" black pond flexible tubing. I guess most people put in smaller ponds, and figure those of us with larger ones can find it on-line. I'm guilty of using 1" with a 4200 GPH pump, and had no idea of the restriction. Oh, what I learn on this site! I will be replacing all the tubing end of year or next spring, though. Sounds like I should go with 2" instead of the 1.5", too!

 

[koidaddy]

Why are people using the black pond tubing? PVC is cheaper, comes in the sizes needed and can be hidden just as easily.

 

[DrDave]

It is not flexible and it would be difficult to retrieve a submersible pump if it was hard plumbed with PVC. Now outside the pond is another story. I use both and agree with you that PVC is cheaper and more adaptable.

 

[koidaddy]

It is not flexible and it would be difficult to retrieve a submersible pump if it was hard plumbed with PVC. Now outside the pond is another story. I use both and agree with you that PVC is cheaper and more adaptable.

Gotcha DrDave. I have gotten away from submersible pumps but that makes sence. My hard line in is not glued after the water line(pvc coupler) so I can remove my BD if needed. I still have some of the black tubing that I hook up to that coupler to vacuum the bottom, which I just got done doing.

 

[CountryEscape]

Is the PVC ok with freezing, or does it need to be buried to keep it from cracking? I'm getting concerned about what will make it through the winter, and what I will have to take apart and move inside. I'm sure the rest of the ponders on here in the north (Michigan, Maine, and Indiana and me in Illinois, even though we're not north, we freeze in the winter) don't take everything apart. Is it a matter of wait and hope, and replace what gets cracked, or is the flexible tubing ok with freezing weather?

 

[DrDave]

You will have to drain any water from the pipes during the freezing months.

 

[Sheetmetalman]

Country, my 2" pvc line is buried, but not deep enough to be below the frost line so when I shut down the skippy filter for freezing weather I plan on useing an air compressor to blow the water out of the buried line so I dont have to worry about it freezing.

 

[DrDave]

Too bad you don't have a low spot you can get to for a drain.

 

[taherrmann4]

Country I would try and find a low spot in your line and install a "T" then put a ball valve on it, keep it closed during the season you run the pond then open and drain it during the winter. I have to do this with one section that feeds my big creek, it goes down hill and then back up but I have a "T" in the low spot and just drain it every fall when I shut it down. If the pipe is buried just use one of the sprinkler boxes that have a lid on it, they are usually black with a green lid. This will allow easy acess.

 

[Sheetmetalman]

I wished I did Dr Dave--but not that lucky--Air compressor will work though--do it this way all the time draining lines for work at the pipeline.

 

[pondlover]

now i plumbed my filters piping thru the wall of the stock tank, for most people i would suggest you run your pumps hose to the top of the center down pipe hooked up to the tee with a hose nipple and end cap with treaded reducer to accept hose nipple
pic # 1.. the way i plumbed mine
pic # 2.. the usual way.. your pumps hose would slide onto the nipple either way but thru the side you better have a good seal or leaks will occur..mine is fine.

Koiguy, what type of fittings did you use to plumb through the side of the tank?

 

[sissy]

are you asking about a tank adapter .Stock tanks sometimes have one on the bottom with a plug and you can get them at a tractor supply they only carry a 2 inch and down in size

 

[koiguy1969]

SISSY... THE QUESTION IS ABOUT THE INPUT PLUMBING, BECAUSE I PUT MINE THRU THE WALL OF THE TANK!!
I used the same type end cap with a threaded hole, as in pic #2, but with a smaller threaded hole. if you go to Lowes they have a selection of them. take your hose adapter with you to match up what one you'll want...they have them smooth and flat ended with different sized threaded holes for the hose adapters. you can get your hose adapter at lowes as well if you need to. they have a big selection in the under ground sprinkler setup stuff. i just took a heat gun, and flattened out a small area on the tank big enough for the end cap to sit flush against the tanks wall, and drilled a hole the same size as the hose aqapters threaded side. applied silicone on the outside of the flat end. get the hose adapter thru the hole in the tank and screw into the threaded hole of the end cap.** you want the hole thru the tank to be a snug fit on the threads of the adapter so it basically threads (screws) thru the hole**. you can drill a couple of tiny holes thru the tank and end cap and screw long skinny screws in to keep the assembly from loosening or spinning if you work on it. here are some pics of two different end caps...both with threaded holes for hose adapters. these are ones i have on other projects. but they will give you a clue as to what you need.I hope my explaination here is sufficient... you could use a 2" one and reduce down to 1&1/2"...it would give more surface area for a good seal. once again ...you want a flat solid surface on the end cap!!