Is this string algae ?

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Northen New jersey.

Before the winter we had significant string algae, and hoped that it would die off over winter. The pond did freeze over, but we were able to keep the waterfall going, the pumps being low enough to avoid ice getting into them.

When it thawed a couple of weeks ago (end of February) the algae had absolutely luxuriated. The koi haven't come out much yet from their deep winter hideout, but they'll have a hard time finding room to get around.

The algae do not look or feel exactly as they do in summer, but that might be just a temperature effect.

Two questions:

1. Can anyone identify anything special from this photo ?

2. My local pond specialist thought that algae-killing chemicals would be best in warmer weather. Could the fish be harmed by waiting for a few weeks ?
 

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crsublette

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Zayde said:
1. Can anyone identify anything special from this photo ?

2. My local pond specialist thought that algae-killing chemicals would be best in warmer weather. Could the fish be harmed by waiting for a few weeks ?
1. Sorry, I don't know what algae it would be.

2. I wouldn't trust the product's marketing. It's really "consumer beware" when using those algae-killing chemicals and be sure you follow the instructions to the letter, which includes making sure you know exactly how many gallons are in your pond. If ya have to guess the number of gallons, then low ball the estimate. These chemicals are essentially basic oxidizers with extra additives that make it stronger while supposedly "safer" for your fish. So, read the labels on the algae-killing chemicals, pay very close attention to the warning labels, and do your due diligence as a consumer to research the product reviews. I always use hydrogen peroxide (3% grade from the gocery store), but this stuff can be just as dangerous except you know exactly what is in it instead of all the extra additives that you might not know in the "pond store" algae kill chemicals. Do you know exactly how many gallons is in your pond ??

Yes, the fish could be significantly stressed with a high algae load, depending on your water KH levels. Do you test your KH (alkalinity) water parameter ??

I would right away get a toilet brush and do your best to "spaghetti noodle" it out of the water. Personally, due to the fish's disabled state in cold water, I would not feel comfortable dosing an oxidizer in the pond during cold water temperatures. Due to removing the algae, your ammonia and nitrite levels could increase since the algae has been consuming the ammonia. What do you use for a bio-filter ?? What's the age of your pond ??


Few more thoughts... My apologies for going to become a bit technical...

It is basically a myth that cold water temperatures will cure your algae problems. I have seen a few ponds, which are quite clean of debris, still have significant algae growth even when the water averages 40*F. Since your good bacteria are slowed down in cold water temperatures, then this helps the algae continue to grow due to an accumulationg of ammonia and carbon dioxide. Although the fish's metabolism is slowed down significantly in cold water, they are still noticeably active enough to eat algae and to eat other types of cold water foods. I know of a couple of koi breeders that continue to feed their fish in 45*F water, even though the food regiment is decreased; then, they often during this time will force their fish to start fasting for a minimum of 6 weeks to 2 months. Depending on how efficient your bio-filter is built, the good bacteria will still convert the ammonia from the food regiment, even though at a slower rate due to the cold water.

Fish continue to release ammonia (NH3) through their gills and carbon dioxide (CO2) through their skin. Then, only some of this NH3 is dissolved into water to become NH4, depending on your pH and water temperature. "Total ammonia" is referring to both your NH3 and NH4 ammonia. Total ammonia and CO2 are two of the main ingredients algae need although not required for growth; phosphate is not always required for the algae to grow depending on the species. If there is not enough CO2, then algae can break down bicarbonate (HCO3-) to be converted into CO2 and water (H2O), which this takes a Hydrogen ion (H+) away from your water potentially creating a pH swing. If your KH levels are low and with a pond full of algae, then the algae consuming the dissolved inorganic carbones, that is CO2 and HCO3-, through photosynthesis and then releasing CO2 through respiration cause major diurnal pH swings. When your pH is high in the afternoon/evening and low in the mornings, this is what is called a diurnal pH swing. Since the fish's immune system is already almost non-existent in 40*F cold water, then these major pH swings will cause your fish to become stressed even more.

Algae respires whenever there is a lack of sunlight, which is the opposite of photosynthesis. Since the winter day's are shorter, then the algae's respiration period is much longer than its photosynthesis period. As the algae is respiring, then the plant is significantly consuming the oxygen out of the water and releasing more CO2 into the water. Due to CO2 being the denominator in the pH equation, the addition of CO2 bypasses your carbonate buffer creating a major diurnal pH swing. However, this also means the higher your KH then the less impact CO2 will effect the pH even though the CO2 never consumes KH.

In conclusion, yes, algae does continue to grow in your ponds in cold waters, and yes, the algae can potentially be harmful to your fish by waiting for a few weeks if your KH is low.
 

crsublette

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crsublette said:
If there is not enough CO2, then algae can break down bicarbonate (HCO3-) to be converted into CO2 and water (H2O), which this takes a Hydrogen ion (H+) away from your water potentially creating a pH swing.
Quick correction. I went back into my research material to double check...

Algae actually converts the bicarbonate into CO2 and OH-. This still has the exact same impact, that is the removal of H+ and addition of OH-.
 
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I definately would not be using chemicals, this time or year, nor any other time of year... I suggest you scoop it out as Charles suggested. Depending on the size of your pond, either a toilet brush, or a plastic bristled broom (I bought a new one for the pond for $5 at a discount store)... We had a fair amount of string algae develop once all our pond plants died back, but nothing like what you have in your picture. If I could collect every last bit of what is in our pond, we'd fill a "family sized" salad bowl (about 9000 gallons of water) ... Once it gets warmer here, I'll just scrape our pond with the broom, and let the filter grab it.
 

crsublette

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I currently only use algae in my stream as my biofilter to act as a crude scrubber. Once the algae grows so big, I then power wash it down and capture all the bits at the end of the stream.

Algae is a good thing, but too much of a good thing can do bad things for the water quality. Eventually, the algae will "collapse", that is to completely die on its own, and the dead algae will decompose back into its constituent parts creating much more Ammonia and other contanimants in the water to feed another major algae bloom. So, definitely do not allow the dead algae to linger too long in the water.

After it is all cleaned up, you can try to put in some dojo weather loaches. I was referenced to them earlier to help control the fish population, but, after doing some more research, I have read how they also will eat the algae. You will have to have a little bit of sand on the pond floor in a container, a couple inches deep or so, since they are very cautious and need a place to hide by digging into sand. I have read they start out around 2~3 inches and then can grow up to 8~10 inches. These guys are nothing like plecos, that is the loaches are extremely hardy in cold water like koi and there is no concern about them sucking on your fish.
 

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Algae grows best in my pond in the winter and spring, only because the powerful pond sedges are dormat so the algae can grow. The fish love to hide in the winter under the algae and it never hurts my fish. Algae will keep the pond clean during the winter and spring months. Once my powerful pond sedges begin to regrow, which will be very very soon, the algae cannot compete for nutrients and it will be gone by summer.

You can keep the algae down with good water movement and filtration. The quickest way to remove it is to twirl around a stick, net out or reach in with your hand and pull some of the extra out.

I would never use the harsh algaecide chemicals as they can be toxic, and are very bad for the plants. I have not used any chemicals ever, in over 22 years of running my ponds non stop, and the best way to get rid of algae is to plant pond sedges and let them get big. Sedges are pond plants with a "spear shaped leafs" like cat-tails, irises, grasses, and rushes. The larger the sedge, the cleaner your pond will be during the summer months.

In the winter months algae is natural and good food in the early spring and fall for the fish to eat. It is the high carbohydrate diet that is very easy to digest during extreme cool temperatures and packed with powerful nutrients and vitamins for the fish.

The only algae that is toxic, is black or blue, or red algae. If your algae is lushes green it is growing good then it is very good to eat for the fish.

Currently my pond is lushes green from the inside! The last picture is of early spring last year, you can see many sedges that are half grown.

Poppy is my eight year old pond puppy who regularly inspects the pond perimeter. :)
 

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crsublette said:
After it is all cleaned up, you can try to put in some dojo weather loaches. I was referenced to them earlier to help control the fish population, but, after doing some more research, I have read how they also will eat the algae. You will have to have a little bit of sand on the pond floor in a container, a couple inches deep or so, since they are very cautious and need a place to hide by digging into sand. I have read they start out around 2~3 inches and then can grow up to 8~10 inches. These guys are nothing like plecos, that is the loaches are extremely hardy in cold water like koi and there is no concern about them sucking on your fish.
No offence Charles, but I think that might be a little misleading. I've never had loaches in my pond, but everything I've read about them indicates that they would not survive any kind of pond freezing temperatures the way koi can.
This is taken from wikipeidia site.
One trait which distinguishes the dojo loach from most other tropical fish commonly seen at aquarium speciality shops and pet stores is the fact that they thrive at room temperature (68-72°F, 20-23°C) and can do well even at temperatures as low as the upper 50'sFahrenheit (13-15° Celsius). The usual tropical temperature will result in a significantly reduced lifespan (from an average 10 years to four or less). Purchasers often presume when buying tropical freshwater fish that all species will thrive in the (typical for home freshwater aquarium installations) 76-82°F / 24-28°C range; this presumption is incorrect in the case of the dojo loach.
So, unlike many other tropical fish that need to have heated water, loaches don't need to have their water heated, but they are still a tropical fish, and I doubt they could survive pond water that had ice forming on it. I'd be happy if somebody could prove me I'm wrong. :rolleyes:
 

crsublette

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I use Wikipedia quite often, but I do not believe it can not be wrong either.

Shdwdrgn, who has a pond in a 5a zone, told me about the weather loach. Also, other freshwater aquarium forums indicate the fish can survive water temperatures much colder than 50*F, even though this will likely prevent them from breeding, which I think is a good thing.
 
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crsublette said:
I use Wikipedia quite often, but I do not believe it can not be wrong either.

Shdwdrgn, who has a pond in a 5a zone, told me about the weather loach. Also, other freshwater aquarium forums indicate the fish can survive water temperatures much colder than 50*F, even though this will likely prevent them from breeding, which I think is a good thing.
Interesting, hopefully Shdwdrgn will drop in here and expand on this a bit. Those loaches certainly are not native to any temperate areas, it's seems amazing that they could survive that cold of water.
 

crsublette

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All algae and plants can be eventually become toxic to water quality whenever they are allowed to become overgrown. Water hycanith becomes so invasive in some rivers that the plant actually suffocating the water. Also, even in lakes and rivers where there is heavy plant presence, significant algae blooms still occur.

There are many many many species of algae and pond owners have limited access to only some. I have read of folk never having algae problems until the one day a particular plant was introduced into the pond that had a algal species transporting on it that has never been in the owner's pond.

Big fish farms encourage huge algal blooms to be a biofilter and feed fish, but these farms also significantly increase there KH very high and inject products for oxygenation.
 

crsublette

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Yeah, the loach probably not native to cold climates due to how they require warmer water to breed and to live to their full potential.
 

crsublette

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If you don't feel comfortable doing the chemical, regardless of it potentially being organically derived, the do not do it if you have hesitation. Ask more questions if you feel like it.

Another little tidbit....

Algae can act like a beneficial parasite to plant roots. The symbiotic relationship allows the algae to excrete sugars and other nutrition to the plants. Some plants actually require particular algae to grow on the roots.

My point is... with oxidizers, you will kill more stuff than you may realize.
 
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Not knowing anything at all about these loaches, except for what you both have posted, if Wikipedia is stating they can do well in the upper 50's, I think it would give us a baseline, but that's about it... The word "well" is subjective at best. I personally do wonderful at 65-75... that is my favorite tempature range, but I'm not going to die at a 30 degree difference either way... I sure wouldnt be happy about it, but I'd stick around;-) So the question is WHAT can they REALLY tolerate? Tempature is only but a single factor in any habitat.
 

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