You are actually building two ponds so you will need two of everything and that gets expensive. There will be elevation issues between the two ponds so the one inch probably won't work unless your yard is perfectly flat.Also the bridge area would have to be pretty wide otherwise it would collapse. Being wide it would make your pond (s) smaller.
How to start building a pond?
- Thread starter Huy Truong
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Welcome and good luck,
you already have lots of experts helping.
Did you mention which part of the US you are located? it makes a difference on your pond design
I also suggest posting my pictures of your yard, ideas you would like to incorporate from internet photos and lastly sketches of you plans. I was in your shoes last year and it was and still is a constant learning for me
you already have lots of experts helping.
Did you mention which part of the US you are located? it makes a difference on your pond design
I also suggest posting my pictures of your yard, ideas you would like to incorporate from internet photos and lastly sketches of you plans. I was in your shoes last year and it was and still is a constant learning for me
@mgmine - sounds like @Huy Truong has opted to go with a simpler design.
@Huy Truong there are many options for pond equipment, but one rule of thumb I like to follow is don't skimp on any portion of the pond that will be difficult to replace later. For example - it's imperative to use a good quality liner as that would require tearing your pond apart to replace. A pump is an easier replacement, so you may get away with saving some money there.
There are online pond calculators that will estimate the size of your pond. At 16x16 and 3 feet deep you're looking at about 5500 gallons. But most likely it will be less as your pond probably won't be 3 feet deep all the way across. And if you're measuring the total area you have available for the pond, you'll want to make is smaller to allow for space to walk around the pond. But that's a starting point. In general your pump should circulate the entire volume of the pond 1.5 to 2 times per hour - so a 10,000 GPH pump is what you'd be looking for.
Read up on bog filtration here on this forum - easy to build, easy to maintain and lots of people here (myself included) use a bog as the only filtration on our ponds.
As for a waterfall - you need some way to keep your water moving, but your waterfall doesn't have to be a giant crashing falls. You can return the water to the pond via a long stream or a series of short falls. All depends on your pond design.
Can I ask - is this your home? Or your parents' home?
@Huy Truong there are many options for pond equipment, but one rule of thumb I like to follow is don't skimp on any portion of the pond that will be difficult to replace later. For example - it's imperative to use a good quality liner as that would require tearing your pond apart to replace. A pump is an easier replacement, so you may get away with saving some money there.
There are online pond calculators that will estimate the size of your pond. At 16x16 and 3 feet deep you're looking at about 5500 gallons. But most likely it will be less as your pond probably won't be 3 feet deep all the way across. And if you're measuring the total area you have available for the pond, you'll want to make is smaller to allow for space to walk around the pond. But that's a starting point. In general your pump should circulate the entire volume of the pond 1.5 to 2 times per hour - so a 10,000 GPH pump is what you'd be looking for.
Read up on bog filtration here on this forum - easy to build, easy to maintain and lots of people here (myself included) use a bog as the only filtration on our ponds.
As for a waterfall - you need some way to keep your water moving, but your waterfall doesn't have to be a giant crashing falls. You can return the water to the pond via a long stream or a series of short falls. All depends on your pond design.
Can I ask - is this your home? Or your parents' home?
Plenty of good advice on pond set up.
So I will just answer the turtle questions, since I’ve kept various species outdoors in my ponds for years. Turtles in ponds are fine. The turtle will not easily be able to catch and eat healthy fish in a large pond. Mine ignore them. If a fish becomes ill or weakened then all bets are off. Sliders will eat plants, insects, tadpoles etc. However, you will still need to feed it. Keep in mind sliders can be hard on pond plants, as well.
You will need to fence in your pond to keep the turtle in the pond otherwise it will leave. Turtles are escape artists they will climb over things you didn’t think they could, so it is important to build this part of the enclosure correctly, as it is a non native species.
The pond should be setup with basking spots where the turtle can get out of the water to sun itself. Create some basking spots,( driftwood works)near deep water, so the turtle can drop off quickly and hide when spooked. I have a large piece that I drilled a hole in and attached a line tied to a brick on the bottom, so it creates a floating basking spot.
Depending on how cold it gets where you are located the turtle will brumate in the pond during winter. I created natural planting beds in my pond and have areas where the plants grow loose in the pond to create spots for the turtles to winter over below the freeze line in my pond.
So I will just answer the turtle questions, since I’ve kept various species outdoors in my ponds for years. Turtles in ponds are fine. The turtle will not easily be able to catch and eat healthy fish in a large pond. Mine ignore them. If a fish becomes ill or weakened then all bets are off. Sliders will eat plants, insects, tadpoles etc. However, you will still need to feed it. Keep in mind sliders can be hard on pond plants, as well.
You will need to fence in your pond to keep the turtle in the pond otherwise it will leave. Turtles are escape artists they will climb over things you didn’t think they could, so it is important to build this part of the enclosure correctly, as it is a non native species.
The pond should be setup with basking spots where the turtle can get out of the water to sun itself. Create some basking spots,( driftwood works)near deep water, so the turtle can drop off quickly and hide when spooked. I have a large piece that I drilled a hole in and attached a line tied to a brick on the bottom, so it creates a floating basking spot.
Depending on how cold it gets where you are located the turtle will brumate in the pond during winter. I created natural planting beds in my pond and have areas where the plants grow loose in the pond to create spots for the turtles to winter over below the freeze line in my pond.
Mmathis
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@Huy Truong Just a comment about turtles..... They are notorious and expert escape artists. They climb and dig. Unless you have a totally contained “enclosure,” they will find a way to leave. And by “totally contained,” I mean fenced in with a solid barrier below the fence. And the fence can’t be climbable. Only you can decide what to do with your reptile friend, but your first concern should be his/her health, happiness, and safety.
You mentioned a HOA. Have you talked with them, and looked into your city’s requirements for a pond?
After you dig out a 16x16 foot pond, is that going to take up the entire yard? You have to factor in HOW you’re going to excavate this space and what you’re going to do with the dirt that’s removed — you’re talking about a tremendous amount of dirt! Now, if you have someone dig it for you, they might haul the extra dirt away for you, but this is something you have to find out.
You’ve also brought up the issue of the waterfall. A lot of people use the dirt from their excavation to build up a waterfall area — same for a bog.
It would be very helpful for us if you could post pictures of the area of the yard you are talking about for the pond. The more pictures you can take, and including as many views and angles — the better.
You mentioned a HOA. Have you talked with them, and looked into your city’s requirements for a pond?
After you dig out a 16x16 foot pond, is that going to take up the entire yard? You have to factor in HOW you’re going to excavate this space and what you’re going to do with the dirt that’s removed — you’re talking about a tremendous amount of dirt! Now, if you have someone dig it for you, they might haul the extra dirt away for you, but this is something you have to find out.
You’ve also brought up the issue of the waterfall. A lot of people use the dirt from their excavation to build up a waterfall area — same for a bog.
It would be very helpful for us if you could post pictures of the area of the yard you are talking about for the pond. The more pictures you can take, and including as many views and angles — the better.
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I would say that if you build a kidney shaped pond with multiple depths you will get MAYBE half of the theoretical gallons.
Waterfall filters have a wide range that each filter will operate over, so I would get something that is rated for about 5,000 gph. Then build the pond and meter the water you put in it. Only when you know how big your pond actually turned out to be should you buy the pump, aiming for 1.0 to 2.0 turn-overs of the pond per hour.
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Okay, I've been researching and I understand those now. I am wondering however, If I want to put a mix of sand and gravel in the bottom of my pond, can I still use a submersible pump?
I would not recommend sand in the bottom of the pond. A SHALLOW layer of gravel is good as it will provide a place for bacteria to colonize, but it can still be stirred up to release any organic debris that might build up. Sand would trap too much debris and would be much harder to clean.
But yes, you can use a submersible pump. It's recommended that you always keep your pump off the floor of the pond anyway to prevent any accidental emptying of the pond should a plumbing line get disconnected for example. Many people place their pumps on crates or overturned buckets or suspend it from the bottom to prevent a pump-out disaster.
But yes, you can use a submersible pump. It's recommended that you always keep your pump off the floor of the pond anyway to prevent any accidental emptying of the pond should a plumbing line get disconnected for example. Many people place their pumps on crates or overturned buckets or suspend it from the bottom to prevent a pump-out disaster.
Mmathis
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@Lisak1 I was just going to add that about keeping the pump off the pond bottom — you beat me to it!
@Huy Truong Here is an example of what Lisak1 is talking about. This is a “milk crate” that I use in the pond to elevate my water lily plants [I have modified this one]. You place it on the pond bottom then put your pump on top of the crate [or bucket, or whatever you use]. This keeps the pump from completely draining the pond if/when there is a malfunction. My crate is about 12” tall, so if the pond drained down, there would still be a foot of water for the fish to [hopefully] survive until I could intervene.
Top picture: water lily plants sitting on top of the crates. Bottom picture: what the crate looks like out of the water [again, mine has been modified].
@Huy Truong Here is an example of what Lisak1 is talking about. This is a “milk crate” that I use in the pond to elevate my water lily plants [I have modified this one]. You place it on the pond bottom then put your pump on top of the crate [or bucket, or whatever you use]. This keeps the pump from completely draining the pond if/when there is a malfunction. My crate is about 12” tall, so if the pond drained down, there would still be a foot of water for the fish to [hopefully] survive until I could intervene.
Top picture: water lily plants sitting on top of the crates. Bottom picture: what the crate looks like out of the water [again, mine has been modified].
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Okay, so here is what I have so far:
Signature Series™ BioFalls® Filter 6000 (2" Bulkhead)
AquaForce® PRO 4000-8000 Solids Handling Pump
25 x 25 Firestone 45 Mil EPDM Pond Liner
Arizona Buff Flagstone 1.5" (for edges)
Native Gravel (for bottom)
Nualgi Ponds (substitute for UV clarifier)
Beneficial Bacteria for Ponds (Liquid) - 32 oz
Ammonia Neutralizer - 1 gal / 3.78ltr
Maintain for Ponds - 32 oz / 946 ml
Protect for Ponds - 32 oz / 946 ml
Pond Salt 9 lb.
Handi Foam Polyurethane Foam Sealants
Pond Logic® Floating Pond Thermometer
API® Pond Master Test Kit
Can anyone tell what else I need, what I can cut back on, and what I need to upgrade/get more of. I wasn't sure what water conditioners I needed to keep it clean and safe, but these seemed the most important, please let me know if I am wrong. This is totaling ~$3100 but I want to reduce that cost as much as I can without compromising the pond. Do I need more or is this about as cheap as I can get? I chose the water conditioner quantities just on how much I thought I might need, so I don't really know how often and how much to apply, so I don't know how much I need. Thank you.
Signature Series™ BioFalls® Filter 6000 (2" Bulkhead)
AquaForce® PRO 4000-8000 Solids Handling Pump
25 x 25 Firestone 45 Mil EPDM Pond Liner
Arizona Buff Flagstone 1.5" (for edges)
Native Gravel (for bottom)
Nualgi Ponds (substitute for UV clarifier)
Beneficial Bacteria for Ponds (Liquid) - 32 oz
Ammonia Neutralizer - 1 gal / 3.78ltr
Maintain for Ponds - 32 oz / 946 ml
Protect for Ponds - 32 oz / 946 ml
Pond Salt 9 lb.
Handi Foam Polyurethane Foam Sealants
Pond Logic® Floating Pond Thermometer
API® Pond Master Test Kit
Can anyone tell what else I need, what I can cut back on, and what I need to upgrade/get more of. I wasn't sure what water conditioners I needed to keep it clean and safe, but these seemed the most important, please let me know if I am wrong. This is totaling ~$3100 but I want to reduce that cost as much as I can without compromising the pond. Do I need more or is this about as cheap as I can get? I chose the water conditioner quantities just on how much I thought I might need, so I don't really know how often and how much to apply, so I don't know how much I need. Thank you.
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I'm not sure what all those water conditioners are. You certainly don't need all of them. All you need is enough dechlorinator to dechlorinate your pond once. Maybe twice if you want some more on hand. You don't need bacteria, salt, or a UV clarifier system.
You're going to need some piping (probably 2" Flex PVC from the look of it). You say submersible pump, but you might want to look into placing that into a skimmer if your design allows it.
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@Huy Truong most of us will tell you to skip the "Beneficial Bacteria" for Ponds, and most other "Water treatments" besides something like Seachem Prime to dechlorinate the water when you add fresh water from the tap/faucet. I see that @EricV already beat me to mentioning that fact but it bears hearing more than once to further reinforce the fact that once your pond is established and balanced you shouldn't need any other water treatments or algaecides, etc. Not sure how much that will save you on your total but I imagine it will save you a small chunk of change?
Mmathis
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Wow, sounds like you have been holding back on us, LOL! Never would have imagined you’d get all that so quickly, going from a few days ago and not having a clue!
Yes, you can skip the bacteria and the salt, and whatever that other stuff is. All you’ll really need is something to neutralize chlorine and chloramines (if you’re on city water), and something “just in case” for ammonia. And weren’t you going for a 16’ x 16’ x 3’ pond? You may be cutting it close on the liner — most folks get more than they’re going to need so you can have some extra around the edges, etc.
Are you opting not to go with a skimmer?
Oh, and I don’t recall seeing underlayment mentioned.
Yes, you can skip the bacteria and the salt, and whatever that other stuff is. All you’ll really need is something to neutralize chlorine and chloramines (if you’re on city water), and something “just in case” for ammonia. And weren’t you going for a 16’ x 16’ x 3’ pond? You may be cutting it close on the liner — most folks get more than they’re going to need so you can have some extra around the edges, etc.
Are you opting not to go with a skimmer?
Oh, and I don’t recall seeing underlayment mentioned.
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The underlay comes with the liner. So I've opted to go for a shallow gravel/pebble substrate on the bottom and am now looking into pond plants. All the information I could find was about planting the plants in containers and setting them in the water. Is there any way to just plant them in the pond, maybe letting it root in gravel and a little sand? Is the planting pot my only choice? How can I get the plants to grow in the soil around the pond, and for floating and submerged plants to grow in the gravel? I'm fine with having to use a planter for marginal plants, but I was wondering if for all other plants it was possible to plant them, or if there was any way to make the pots look more natural. I know everyone says sand is bad, but I also want the pond to look natural, so is it possible to put gravel and sand in the pond for plants to also naturally grow? I'm just wondering. Thanks so much, I just want to see if I can get the plants, sand, and gravel to be as natural as possible.
mrsclem
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The problem with using sand in the pond is it is going to collect gunk and get nasty after a while. Once your pond gets established, everything will get covered with a coating of algae. As far as submerged plants, you can just tuck their roots under a rock to hold them in place.