High PH level

fishin4cars

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Bart said:
I am now inclined to believe my PH problem is in the cement wall blocks I have installed around the edge of my pond. These blocks are the kind you find at Lowe's and Home Depot and other building stores for making low walls around flower gardens etc. They are about 12" long 7" wide and 4" thick and stack 2 high around my pond. There is 60 of them on the bottom row. The top row does not get under water. They were new and I did not know about neutralizing them before use. I have tested my well water and it is between 7.0 and 7.5 so I know that is not the problem so in the morning I will test my pond water again and see what I come up with there. If it is still high I think I will drop the water down below the bottom row of block. That way none of the cement blocks will be in the water and maybe the PH will drop down. If it does not I guess I will have to purchase something to bring it down.

dropping the water level will stop the reaction a great amount, every time it rains it will still get in the pond but at a far lesser rate. water changes will help lower it with the least amount of side effects. I wouldn't do large water changes as you want to lower it slowly. adding water that has 7.0-7.5 will lower it each time you take some 9.0 out and add. Once you get it down to 7.0 ( Will probably take several 10-20% water changes) you can add oyster shell or feather rock and that will buffer the water to help stabalize the PH. The problem I have to ask is what are you going to do about all the blocks. It could take 6 months to a year for them to wheather. If it rains and the water level will climb again and the blocks could make the ph climb again. But I agree lowering the water level below them if you can would help slow it down and give you a chance to figure something out. Anyway to put them behind the liner? Just curious, I can see where that option might not be possible.
 

fishin4cars

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j.w said:
What about the red bricks they used to build houses with.........kinda look like terra cotta?
Would they change the ph also? I just put a few in my pond to raise up a pot :confused:

JW, easy way to find out, put some water in a bucket in the shade, check the PH and GH if you have that test kit, wait 48 hrs and test. if it is climbing check again in a week and see if it continues. If so the answer is yes. It all depends on the make up of the clay used for the brick making process. Some could, some may not or only slightly raise and stabalize. As for breaking down, same thing, some will break down quickly some will not. Fire bricks last a long time, As for ph, I have never checked but would be intrested to know as I have used a few for some of my plants.
 
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Well I am not sure what to do now. Putting the liner above the blocks is an option, but if I do pick those blocks up I might as well neutralize the blocks. So how is the best way to do this. How long will it take to say do one block. And once this neutralization is accomplished is it permanent?
Thanks
 

fishin4cars

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Weathering concrete takes a lot of time, will they ever become neutral, probably not 100% but being new they release a lot of what ever gets released that causes the PH to rise, I think it may be the lime but don't quote me on that. I had stacks of blocks that were 4-5 years old and had been out in the weather stacked up I used. My ph stayed slightly high but was never more than low 8's. Once I took some out and got my ph locked in then it stopped climbing. Right now I have three in a 2500 gallon pond and plan on getting those out too. They are very abrasive and on large butterfly koi I think they are doing more harm than good. I know there is cement sealer available but I haven't used it so don't know what to recommend.
 

oldmarine

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Bart said:
I just ran my first water test on my 3 month old pond. All tests ended up good except for the PH. It is running a solid 9.0. I know this is really high so what do I need to do now. Will baking soda neutralize and bring this PH down before something bad goes wrong.
Thanks
Bart

I'm far from being one of the pond & water experts here, but I have have learned from over 30 years of aquarium, and now within the last 3 years of ponding that no matter how much I altered the PH in any of my ponds or aquariums the PH will continue to adjust itself.

If your pond or aquarium has the right balance of fish, plants, and water it will like water rise to it's own level. What it takes is experimenting with finding the right balance for your pond, and let the balance find itself. It will take time, maybe several years, but you can figure out what that balance is in your pond. Add more plants & decrease the plants. They are the key equassion, and work with it.

When I tried to chemically adjust the PH in my aquariums and pond with the right amount of plants, it would always re-adjust itself. Give it a shot and you will see for yourself.
 

fishin4cars

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oldmarine said:
I'm far from being one of the pond & water experts here, but I have have learned from over 30 years of aquarium, and now within the last 3 years of ponding that no matter how much I altered the PH in any of my ponds or aquariums the PH will continue to adjust itself.

If your pond or aquarium has the right balance of fish, plants, and water it will like water rise to it's own level. What it takes is experimenting with finding the right balance for your pond, and let the balance find itself. It will take time, maybe several years, but you can figure out what that balance is in your pond. Add more plants & decrease the plants. They are the key equassion, and work with it.

When I tried to chemically adjust the PH in my aquariums and pond with the right amount of plants, it would always re-adjust itself. Give it a shot and you will see for yourself.

The pond can't adjust itself if it has something constantly trying to raise the PH. Concrete! Once you have a Ph you want to keep if you add oyster shells to your filter the oyster shell will slowly breakdown and buffer the water, the buffering helps keep the PH stable.
 
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Hi Bart, The wall blocks/pavers without a doubt are raising your PH. Incidentally your goldfish should do fine at 9 PH. I made the same mistake on my first pond. It's amazing how I made almost every mistake my first year! The inside of my pond looked like a well and I had blocks ringing the entire inside. The problem with them is any cement product will leach lime into your water and make your pond more alkaline and thus raise your PH. If you remove them your PH will slowly go down. Also flagstone and limestone and also concrete that allows water to run into a pond do the same thing. That is why slate is better for waterfalls etc. I am not a fan of additives to change PH because sudden change in PH can do more harm to your fish than leaving it alone. Also you want your pond to stabilize and create a natural system on its own.
 
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jw the red bricks you are referring to are made from clay and not cement. This is actually something I know about as one of the 2 million people out of work that worked in the home building business. Luckily I found something else to do. There are bricks that are made of clay veneer cemented to a base brick, but these are not as common.
 
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I understand the point of reaching a natural balance and not shocking the fish, but I feel you cannot sit around while the pH attempts to go over 9. At least drop it to 8.5 so the fish are not getting alkali burns. It's going to vary by species what they can handle obviously.
 
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I just tested my water again this morning and it is reading between 8.0 and 9 so rather doing anything really drastic right now, I think I will keep a close eye on it until I decide what to do with the blocks.
About the oyster shell, do you put this in a bag and then put in the filter or put it straight in the filter?
Will the shell eventually dissolve?
Thanks
 
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Bag is better and yes it will dissolve over a long period of time like weeks and months. I'm not using it till my pH is lower. I am adding some clay slowly though. Red bag at Walmart named Special Kitty. Pure clay and cheap! :-D
 

fishin4cars

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Bart said:
I just tested my water again this morning and it is reading between 8.0 and 9 so rather doing anything really drastic right now, I think I will keep a close eye on it until I decide what to do with the blocks.
About the oyster shell, do you put this in a bag and then put in the filter or put it straight in the filter?
Will the shell eventually dissolve?
Thanks
Malak is correct, It very slowly dissolves, Most will put it where it is out of the sun to keep algea from growing on it, I use a mesh bag, Actually 2 and fill them with crushed oyster shell for chickens that you get from a feed and seed center. (tractor supply-$4.99) I put mine in the top of my filter just before the water fall weir. don't do anything drastic, for now small water changes to slowly lower is your best bet. Once you can get it down to below 8 then start trying to watch and see if it tries to climb back up after rains and such. Your looking for a balance but you don't want to balance a pond at 9.0 unless your planning on raising African cichlids or marine fish. Carp don't do good at all with that High of a PH!
 

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I used retaining wall block around my pond and no problems and I use natural rocks to hold anything up in my pond
 

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