Hamstermann's pond build

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My thought was to fill a syringe with glue and inject it into the joint to try again but I'm not sure where to get needles and syringes (do you need a prescription to get them?), how their sizes work, or what size I'd need.
I don't know if it varies by state, but here in Massachusetts, there is no need for a prescription to buy needles and syringes. I worked in pharmacy for several years and I remember people coming in to buy them for assorted purposes... at least, that's what they said. 🙂
 
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You can get large syringes on ebay, I'm not sure they will be fine enough to get up the gap. I guess there is not enough spare material to cut out the joint and redo it?
I think redoing it would mean I might have to replace the t-fitting which would mean digging up the pipe:
IMG_20240606_063652.jpg


I don't know if it varies by state, but here in Massachusetts, there is no need for a prescription to buy needles and syringes. I worked in pharmacy for several years and I remember people coming in to buy them for assorted purposes... at least, that's what they said. 🙂
Oh good. How do I know what size needle I need to ask for? Are they measured in millimeter diameters, for example?
 
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CUT OUT THE JOINT add a coupling if needed to make up what was removed. i do hope your using pressure pvc fittings it makes it so much easier and stronger. trying to add glue from the outside doesn't work well as air gets trapped keeping the glue out.
 
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Is there good news here is this below water? if so just take some heavy duty pvc cement and apply along the outside.

on the what am i seeing however when you put pvc together there should also be a 1/4 turn to make sure the glue is uniform. the joint where theres a little dirt looks mighty thin but again if its under water a little leak means little , you just want to make sure it doesn't push apart

USING CHIPED STONE ANGULAR WIL WORK GREAT FOR A WHILE IT WILL LOCK UP THE DEBRIS AND SEDIMENT HOWEVER IT WONT TAKE TO LONG TO START TO FAIL , DAMN CAPS
 
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CUT OUT THE JOINT add a coupling if needed to make up what was removed. i do hope your using pressure pvc fittings it makes it so much easier and stronger. trying to add glue from the outside doesn't work well as air gets trapped keeping the glue out.
I guess I'll cut it out and redo it if I have to - I just really don't want to if I can find another way. That's a ton of work to have to undo.

Yes, they're pressure fittings. Schedule 40 PVC.
Is there good news here is this below water? if so just take some heavy duty pvc cement and apply along the outside.
Unfortunately, no. I was hoping it would be but I think it ended up above the water line.

USING CHIPED STONE ANGULAR WIL WORK GREAT FOR A WHILE IT WILL LOCK UP THE DEBRIS AND SEDIMENT HOWEVER IT WONT TAKE TO LONG TO START TO FAIL
Thankfully I don't have a lot of it in the bog. That's largely 3-6" cobble so far.
 
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Oh good. How do I know what size needle I need to ask for? Are they measured in millimeter diameters, for example?
Needles are sized by length and gauge (or thickness); the higher the gauge number, the smaller the size. It's kind of the reverse of how you'd think it would work. I'm sure if you explained to the people behind the pharmacy counter exactly what you're looking to do, they could help you.
 
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That's a ton of work to have to undo. Sawzall cut it out buy a union fitting to make it easier on yourself. Or go all out and do a union ball valve. If you don't have one on that line. It's very beneficial to have ball valves or any valve on every line. And yes it can matter drastically where you put it In the line if it splits for instance.



Yes, they're pressure fittings. Schedule 40 PVC.

Unfortunately, no. I was hoping it would be but I think it ended up above the water line.


Thankfully I don't have a lot of it in the bog. That's largely 3-6" cobble so far.
 
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I think redoing it would mean I might have to replace the t-fitting which would mean digging up the pipe:
View attachment 163747


Oh good. How do I know what size needle I need to ask for? Are they measured in millimeter diameters, for example?
If it is above ground, try put solvent weld up the joint, but why don't just put layers and layers of solvent weld on the outer edge of the joint and keep a close eye on it. If it leaks then you will have to to replace it.

You could use a straight rubber coupling, cut a section out and slide the rubber coupling in
 
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If it is above ground, try put solvent weld up the joint, but why don't just put layers and layers of solvent weld on the outer edge of the joint and keep a close eye on it. If it leaks then you will have to to replace it.

You could use a straight rubber coupling, cut a section out and slide the rubber coupling in
Thanks! Both the layers of solvent weld and the rubber coupling sound much easier than digging out the pipe to cut out the t.
 
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I tried globbing on the solvent glue. We'll see how well it works when I plug everything in.

New problem: one of my pump cords is 3 feet or so short. Has anyone tried one of these shrouds in a margin area where it might be submerged?

Screenshot_2024-06-11-19-24-27-938.jpg
 
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Not a chance in the world would I put my socket in that submerge it and then have my kids go in for a swim. Even with a gfci it's a mechanical apparatus they go bad in time. Try calling the pump company and see if they can exchange for a longer cord even if they hit you with 2 % it's better than playing with fire
 
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Not a chance in the world would I put my socket in that submerge it and then have my kids go in for a swim. Even with a gfci it's a mechanical apparatus they go bad in time. Try calling the pump company and see if they can exchange for a longer cord even if they hit you with 2 % it's better than playing with fire
I'm not a fan of the idea of pump surgery to switch out the cords - I'd probably void the warrantee and ruin the waterproofing in the process. Maybe I just need to set this one aside for putting in a pondless in the front yard in the future and cough up for another pump in the meantime. I really hate to spend the money for another pump in the meantime, but I don't want to risk anyone's lives either. If anyone knows of a cheaper and safe solution, that would be great though.

Edit: Actually, I'm not going to worry about getting another pump for now. I'll just eliminate the stream/waterfall I had planned and focus on finishing the pond and put off the waterfall and stream until some point in the future. It's enough stress and anxiety trying to finish what I have for now. I might look into a bubbler or something for aeration until I'm ready to do the waterfall though.
 
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Is it possible to contact the place you got the pump from and see if you can exchange it for another one. Since you have not used the pump it might be possible. Also check to see if it might be possible to hard wire the pump. My pump is external so it might be different but I know it came with instructions to hard wire it rather than use the cord if necessary.
 
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I tried globbing on the solvent glue. We'll see how well it works when I plug everything in.

New problem: one of my pump cords is 3 feet or so short. Has anyone tried one of these shrouds in a margin area where it might be submerged?

View attachment 163851
If you need to the join you use a gel waterproof box, like these


They are designed to be used underwater, they are filled with gel that completely surrounds the wires and connections.
 
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If you need to the join you use a gel waterproof box, like these


They are designed to be used underwater, they are filled with gel that completely surrounds the wires and connections.
I like that thought. And I could test it on the fish - If I plug it in and they all die and start floating, then the electrics aren't safe. if they're fine, I can try a current tester like this on the water. If no current and healthy fish, I think it would likely be safe for people and then I could test that on me. In theory, it shouldn't be wet because the cord would be in gravel behind boulders and above water level, but better safe than sorry in case things flood.
 

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