Well while that plan has had limited success, we are looking at a UV system. So can I ask for opinions?
I like
Aqua Ultraviolet, but only because they publish pretty specific data on their units. They seem pretty serious about their products, not too expensive. I don't like to give opinion along the lines of "I used Brand X once and it's great". Kind of meaningless. I like standalone UV units vs those inside other filters or part of a pump. Those are sold to newbies only imo. They sound good, "do everything" but they "do everything poorly" imo. And if one part clogs or breaks you lose the entire deal.
Bottom line I think all UV units are basically the same because the bulb is really what matters and those come from just a few manufacturers, never the UV builder.
Compare apples to apples. Every UV is both a sterilizer and clarifier, although most you see will be called one or the other but that's just marketing. It's just a matter of how fast water is pushed thru. Aqua UV gives flow rates for both sterilizer and clarifier which makes it easier imo. If one seller says 9 watt is fine for your pond and everyone else says 20 watts you're reading the seller's opinion, not tested results. The 9 watt might actually clear the pond under certain conditions, but then so would a 9 watt from the other sellers. Just because one claims 9 watt works and others say 20 watt doesn't mean the 9 watt is better. I'd assume it was probably worst because I'm getting marketing speak from the seller instead of test results.
A surprising number of outside of the pond units are installed upside down or wrong direction. It's important to follow the directions. They don't want air to be trapped inside which can reduce their ability.
Install a ball valve before the unit so you can control flow. You can also plumb a bypass so the extra water goes around the unit. The sizes for the units is a general guideline and most numbers you see will be for max flow. The thicker the algae the less light can penetrate the water and fewer will be kill. In that case you want to be able to turn down the flow if water doesn't clear in 3-7 days.
Ammonia
Algae does consume nitrate. But nitrate isn't normally an issue for fish. Ammonia is an issue. Algae consume ammonia directly. So a green pond will normally be 0 ammonia and many keepers with think they're safe and they have a great bio filter. Well, the algae is your bio filter, even if you have another. Algae is always first in line at the ammonia buffet. When the algae is killed ammonia can climb so this would be a good time to monitor. Also, the dead algae decomposing will produce ammonia too.
Cold water means ammonia is fairly harmless, so even if you measure ammonia don't be too quick to panic and make things worst. Understand the difference between
Free and Total ammonia. It's not that hard and sure can reduce stress for you and your fish.
I don't know your pond or conditions...but killing a pond full of freshly killed algae can have a negative impact on water quality. They decompose very fast even in cold water. If your pond ices over with a fresh load of algae things can get bad. I normally think even 30-60 days of a pond iced over is fine, even good, depending on organic load, but that's a lot of fresh organic load. I'm not saying don't clear the pond now, just saying there might be more risk, but not huge. If you didn't mind waiting until closer to warmer weather I'd wait.
String Algae
You can expect string algae. How do I know you don't already have it? Just guessing. But it's uncommon to have both string algae and green water. It's even more uncommon to have both clear water and no string algae at least in Water Gardens. My theory is the two species fight each other using chemicals. Killing the green water algae will allow string algae and other macro algae to grow. You actually probably have some string / macro algae now but it's had a hard time growing.
Plants
It is very common to hear people say algae can be starved or controlled by plants. Pond surface completely covered with actively growing water hyacinths, OK, maybe. I've certainly had tons of string algae under water hyacinths. But a bunch of marginals? I doubt it very much. Algae has been around a lot longer than higher plants. It is very good at what it does. Algae is in the water, first in line for nutrients. It wins that race every time.
You just measured 0 ammonia and 0 nitrate (I assume) and still had a green pond right? Did the algae look starved? What would have plants done? Zero is as low as it gets.
You just got done chasing a few green water myths (I think), no reason to start chasing macro algae myths now. Treat it like the lawn and pull some out once every week or two as needed. It's your friend making your pond healthier. And with string algae I'll bet you can switch off the UV, save some $$$, even sell the UV if you want. Once the string algae has the upper hand its chemicals will keep the water green free indefinitely although that's not 100% sure.