getting my fish drunk...... seriously, watch.

Meyer Jordan

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A most interesting thread. Carbon dosing is used in aquaculture, but not for the purpose of water clarification. As mentioned earlier, it is used to promote bacterial growth. The purpose of promoting this bacterial growth is to provide a comfortable food supply for zooplankton which, in turn, provides more 'natural' nutrition for the fish. Water clarity is fairly low on the list of water quality priorities in aqauculture. In fact, a certain level of turbidity that is caused by planktonic algae is considered healthy and desirable.
Another beneficial effect of this practice is the reduction a ammonia-nitrogen within the system. And, of course, there is the monetary gain derived from the reduction in the amount of commercial food required by utilizing a less expensive carbonaceous sub-strate.
 
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and this is why I don't come to this site hardly EVER because of crap like this...if you two want to have a nasty exchange of smart @$$ comments...why don't you do it privately? So thanks for the advice Lisaebetten...I'll try to figure out how to do that!
 
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and this is why I don't come to this site hardly EVER because of crap like this...if you two want to have a nasty exchange of smart @$$ comments...why don't you do it privately? So thanks for the advice Lisaebetten...I'll try to figure out how to do that!
?
I believe she has been banned.
It seems you have added to it.
 
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A most interesting thread. Carbon dosing is used in aquaculture, but not for the purpose of water clarification. As mentioned earlier, it is used to promote bacterial growth. The purpose of promoting this bacterial growth is to provide a comfortable food supply for zooplankton which, in turn, provides more 'natural' nutrition for the fish. Water clarity is fairly low on the list of water quality priorities in aqauculture. In fact, a certain level of turbidity that is caused by planktonic algae is considered healthy and desirable.
Another beneficial effect of this practice is the reduction a ammonia-nitrogen within the system. And, of course, there is the monetary gain derived from the reduction in the amount of commercial food required by utilizing a less expensive carbonaceous sub-strate.
I am not doing this for plants, honestly could care less about them besides shade for the fish. They flower for 10 days and that is it.

I'm sure the lower the numbers on phates and trates in the system decreases the stress on the fish population.

The bottle was 16 bucks and will last the pond several years. It has been the cheapest thing I've used in the pond and the limited results have been positive. I will most definitely continue the pursuit of this in spring time for continued stocking of the biological filter and clear water.
 
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Mario to link us into the other forum simply click on the box next to the backward and forwards arrows at the very top of the page.
Then you can copy it by right clicking copy it by right clicking on the box and the contents then right click on copy .
It's then simply come back to GPF and paste it in this thread
and this is why I don't come to this site hardly EVER because of crap like this...if you two want to have a nasty exchange of smart @$$ comments...why don't you do it privately? So thanks for the advice Lisaebetten...I'll try to figure out how to do that!
Dont judge a book by its cover @tengbells the problem you were on about has been removed thus there shouldnt be anymore Lisa was the victim in all this as have other people been, this is including myself, the other person should have known better!!!.....
This is a very good forum with some good and talented people on it who between them have a vast store of knowledge be it about ponds ,building them , maintaining them, building maintaining bog filters, mechanical/biological filters etc as well as fish health matters cures etc.:cool:
Between us all we can make this forum even better so please dont let a rotton apple spoil your view of the forum because thats not fare on the rest of us nor Lisa :(.
Ian has some ideas that he is currently progaming in which I for one cannot wait to see :happy:

Dave
 
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Meyer Jordan

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The bottle was 16 bucks and will last the pond several years. It has been the cheapest thing I've used in the pond and the limited results have been positive. I will most definitely continue the pursuit of this in spring time for continued stocking of the biological filter and clear water.

Carbon loading or BioFloc technology as it is called in aquaculture does not encourage the growth of the true nitrifying bacteria (autotrophs) but rather heterotrophic bacteria that have the ability to, under the right conditions, lower Ammonia/Nitrogen levels. The vast majority of this growth is seen at the planktonic level (This is why you found so much 'gunk' in your filters) and not in increased colonizing of the pond's Biofilm, so it will not supplement the "stocking of the biological filter".
Any carbohydrate at the correct dosage will trigger this growth; alcohol (vodka), molasses or even simple table sugar.
 

crsublette

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I am not surprised this would work.

For the complete story behind this method, that is both the good and the bad, then read the Reefkeeping magazine article, Vodka Dosing... Distilled!.

The science, chemistry, methodology for dosing, and microbiological reactions would still apply to our freshwater system. The main difference would be the type of water testing kits since saltwater kits utilize reagants that correctly offset the high salinity so to be more accurate when testing in a saltwater environment.

The all in one filter had some awesome stinky thick sludge that came out, all in a month and a half. No joke, it had to be 3 lbs.
Yep, as I figured as much there would be.

This stuff is awesome plant fertilizer as well and for boosting a compost pile.

Carbon loading or BioFloc technology as it is called in aquaculture does not encourage the growth of the true nitrifying bacteria (autotrophs) but rather heterotrophic bacteria that have the ability to, under the right conditions, lower Ammonia/Nitrogen levels. The vast majority of this growth is seen at the planktonic level (This is why you found so much 'gunk' in your filters) and not in increased colonizing of the pond's Biofilm, so it will not supplement the "stocking of the biological filter".
Any carbohydrate at the correct dosage will trigger this growth; alcohol (vodka), molasses or even simple table sugar.
Pretty much for the most part.
 
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For the complete story behind this method, that is both the good and the bad, then read the Reefkeeping magazine article, Vodka Dosing... Distilled!.

The science, chemistry, methodology for dosing, and microbiological reactions would still apply to our freshwater system. The main difference would be the type of water testing kits since saltwater kits utilize reagants that correctly offset the high salinity so to be more accurate when testing in a saltwater environment.


Yep, as I figured as much there would be.

This stuff is awesome plant fertilizer as well and for boosting a compost pile.


Pretty much for the most part.
Thanks!
 
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Thanx for linking it up charles , we hope and pray you had a Merry Christmas may 2015 be a good one for you and yours, it looks to be a very interest article to say the very least .
I look forwards to reading it a little late as I'e saved it off.

Dave
 
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This is the greatest post (in my year) on GPF! Some of the best quotes ever! Seriously!

I'm having green water, UV is taking a while to catch up, this is tempting!
 

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Do you have a link for the dosage?
From the article I linked, here ya go... Vodka Dosing... Distilled

As the article talks about an increase of biological oxygen demand, to combat this, I strongly recommend proper pond husbandry techniques such as good water circulation (i.e., pump "turns pond over" at least once a hour), filtration so to capture the accumulated muck, and possibly an air diffusor.


This solution involves monitoring Phosphate and Nitrate levels from a low concentration testing instrument.

For low concentration Phosphate testing, the options are: 1) API Phosphate liquid test kit; 2) Hanna Phosphate Checker; 3) HACH Calorimeter with HACH Method Reagant 8048. #2 and #3 is far more accurate than #1. Also, water turbidity impacts water testing and #3 works best in preventing water turbidity from interfering. #1 is the cheapest.

For low concentration Nitrate testing, I found the Freshwater Salifert Nitrate Test kit the best, but the API Nitrate test kit is sometimes good depending on water turbidity.

My guess is that these dosages are not too scientific so I imagine the dosage could be rounded off a tiny bit to make for easier measuring without having to purchase a syringe, but below dosages is directly from the article.


Also, since this is not very scientific, then I am curious if the daily maintenance doses is actually needed, that is if you have a significant amount of plants in the pond.

I adjusted the dosages to an increment that is more easy to adapt to a pond context and condensed the instructions.


Dosage recommendation from the article, Vodka Dosing... Distilled :
  1. Test your system’s NO3 and PO4 levels. Do not dose if you do not know this! We recommend good test kits that have some low level of sensitivity. This will be important later on to determining a maintenance dose regimen. During the initial dosing test often and adjust dosing parameters as needed as each pond’s requirement will be different. Dosing accuracy is of the utmost importance. A journal of additions and test kit measurements is recommended.

  2. For vodka dosing there is absolutely no harm in underestimating the pond volume and is recommended. As an example, let us assume that your pond is 1500 gallons if you only "think" the pond is 2,000 gallons.

  3. Do not double dosing to make up for skipped days.

  4. For dosing, then use a 0.1ml rated syringe would work best. If able, split the dose in half to make two doses each day.

  5. Days 1~3, dosage is 0.1ml per 25 gallons
    1. Here are some conversions numbers...
    2. 0.1 ml per 25 gallons
    3. 1 ml per 250 gallons
    4. 1 teaspoon per 1232 gallons
    5. 1 tablespoon per 3696 gallons
    6. So, for 1500 gallon pond it is 1.25 teaspoons per 1540 gallons.
      .
  6. Do not increase dosages once you notice Nitrate and Phosphate levels beginning to fall. If nutrient levels start to fall, then skip steps 6 through 8.

  7. Days 4-7, double the dosage. For 1500 gallon pond, it would be 2.5 teaspoons.

  8. Each subsequent week, add 50% more too the dosage. For 1500 gallon pond, it 3.75 teaspoons, which is also 1 tablespoon plus .75 teaspoons.

  9. At week 2, if there is no decrease in Phosphate and Nitrate levels, then add an additional 0.5 ml to Week 3's dosage. 0.5 ml is same as 0.1 teaspoons.

  10. Once Phosphate and Nitrate levels are undetectable, reduce the daily dosage by half and this will be your daily maintenance dosage.

  11. Continue to test for NO3 and PO4. If levels become detectable in the future increase your daily dose by 0.1ml increments per week until the levels start to decrease. If you maintain that dose the levels will eventually drop back to undetectable. This would become your new maintenance dose.
 
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...

For low concentration Phosphate testing, the options are: 1) API Phosphate liquid test kit; 2) Hanna Phosphate Checker; 3) HACH Calorimeter with HACH Method Reagant 8048. #2 and #3 is far more accurate than #1. ..

For my phosphate management, I use the Hanna Phosphorus ULR checker, which measures in ppb.
http://shop.hannainst.com/products-by-category/checkers/hi736-phosphorus-ulr.html

I don't know if I mentioned it before, but I dose Lanthanum chloride into a washable filter sock to remove phosphates. I find it easier to manage compared to trying to control bacterial populations.
(this is in my reef aquarium, but I understand that lanthanum chloride is used in fw pools for algae management}
 

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