I've not got an ammonia reading on the test kit. Might have to buy one... Note that I don't feed the fish; cutting back on food isn't an option.
I replaced 30% of the water by siphoning it out with a hose pipe, and used the siphon to scoop out as much junk/poo as I could. The second strip test showed improved water quality, so this is probably my fix: regular water checks and maybe periodic water changes. Time will tell how good/stable the water quality is. The debris I'm sucking out appears to be very fine brown silt - it can be partially removed with a fine net but is so fine that it goes into suspension in the water when disturbed and then resettles - not sure what this "silt" is.
Spending an hour slowly siphoning water did give me some quality observation time, and what I can say is that the fish have definitely grown. My observation above of "20 fish at 5cm" should be revised to "20 fish at 10cm", the biggest one is probably 20cm. So maybe "overstocking" is the basic issue.