DIY biofilter

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Thanks for the inspiration all. I decided to take the advice of this forum and build my own Biofilters. I had a lot of fun and I am very pleased how they came out!

I've got 21" floor buffing pads (green scraping type) on order to use as my filter medium. I found a great website that I got them for a very reasonable price.

I will attempt to attach pictures of the filters to show off my "wares." I am getting very close to putting everything together and installing my 2400 gallon pond and 12 ft head ht waterfall. I have learned a lot from this forum, and can't wait until the water is flowing, the pond balances, and I can start gardening and getting Koi!

Thanks again everyone for sharing your knowledge and experience! :profile:
 

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DrDave

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I like the fittings you used to penetrate the drum to bring in the water. Never seen those before. Did you have to order them?

The secret to cleaning these, is the 2" dump Ball Valve at the bottom. It's large size make the flush possible when it is opened. With the smaller ones like I see on yours, you will not get the flush effect.
 

koiguy1969

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I elevated my bottom pipes and elbows about 4" above the bottom,i used 1 1/2" pipe, and 2' tees slid over them to elevate and they allow them to "hinge' if i have to remove the top elbo joint for cleaning. the 4' allow for settling below the major swirling. on the bottom the sediment never has a chance to settle. make sense? thats my thinking anyway.
 

DrDave

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You want the sludge to settle so when you open the 2" dump valve, it is swept out in seconds.
Mine takes 30 to 45 seconds maximum to clean and I don't even get my hands wet.
 

koiguy1969

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exactly my thoughts, thats why i elevated my bottom pipes , so theres four inches for it to settle in, with less water turbulance. with the pipes all the way on the floor of tank, not as much can settle, the water movement across the floor keeps it stirred up.
 

koiguy1969

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to alleviate any misunderstandings... i speak of the pipes off the bottom tee,with the elbows on the ends' that the water from the pump exits to creat the swirling water, not the bottom drain pipes. whatever distance you raise them creates that much of a 'DEAD" slower moving water area under them, that the sludge can settle in, instead of having the flow pipes against the floor,constantly stirring up the debri. naturally you would want the drain pipes at or as close to flush with the bottom as posible.
 

koiguy1969

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Ah,o.k. You Definately Got A Point There. His Drains Are Rather Small...adway, You Want As Large As Possible Drains,the Outflow Will Creat A Suction, Or Vaccuum Effect And Pull The Debri Out With It.
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Looks like I will make some modifications prior to going "live". :banghead3: I used 1" ball valves since I was unable to turn the 2" valves that were at home depot, but I guess once the filters are full of water I'll be able to turn them with the good weight anchor behind them. Since I'll have to take it all apart... again (ugh), I'll also create the "dead zone of 4 inches for the settling of the sludge. That makes good sense too. Boy this is a learning process!

Andy
 

koiguy1969

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my ball valves were hard to turn also,1 quick shot of silicone lube and a couple minutes of turning it back and forth it freed up
 

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