Construction of The Hawkins' Family Pond

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Very nicely done Randy!

One question, your concrete ring that your pond is in, is that reinforced with any rebar? I am getting some ideas as to how I want to expand my pond and I am thinking of also doing an partially above ground pond. Right now my pond depth is 20" at its deepest point, I was thinking of building up the pond by 18"-24" by using some sort of retaining wall method and this build turned out great and looking at some ideas.

I looked at a lot of cinder block builds and almost all use rebar and concrete to fill in the cinder block voids.
 
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Very nicely done Randy!

One question, your concrete ring that your pond is in, is that reinforced with any rebar? I am getting some ideas as to how I want to expand my pond and I am thinking of also doing an partially above ground pond. Right now my pond depth is 20" at its deepest point, I was thinking of building up the pond by 18"-24" by using some sort of retaining wall method and this build turned out great and looking at some ideas.

I looked at a lot of cinder block builds and almost all use rebar and concrete to fill in the cinder block voids.

"Very nicely done" - Thanks!

"is that reinforced with any rebar?" - Don't know. I purchased the house about 4 years ago and it was in place at that time and, judging from it and other rock-faced sections of the house, I believe was built when the house was built - 20+ years ago? With that, I doubt there is any rebar. It is cinder blocks, I was able to tell that, but, I doubt any rebar. I highly suggest using rebar for your build - it is a fairly inexpensive addition and can not be applied later.

If you do not have a bottom drain you might want to consider installing one of those before building the wall.

The highest end on mine is 24" and I like that because it is a good height to sit and view the fish so do try to do similar with yours.
 
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Did you say you got the lights at Home Depot? They look like rocks with a solar panel on top? Is that what you are using for all your lighting in the pictures you posted above? I love the light and the look of the rocks and it seems like it'd be easy to place.
Well it seems like very exciting construction... I am thinking to build my first family pond and there is plenty to gain from the thread..
 
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Well it seems like very exciting construction... I am thinking to build my first family pond and there is plenty to gain from the thread..

Thanks. If there is anything regarding my project that warrants more explanation please don't hesitate to ask. I am not an expert but I do have my experience which has been a great educational opportunity.
 
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Did you say you got the lights at Home Depot? They look like rocks with a solar panel on top? Is that what you are using for all your lighting in the pictures you posted above? I love the light and the look of the rocks and it seems like it'd be easy to place.
Well it seems like very exciting construction... I am thinking to build my first family pond and there is plenty to gain from the thread..
Ok Will contact you soon..
 
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WOW, Randy! That's great work, and something I can use as a structural reference. I'll see what I can do using your recommendations -- after all, we can always use MORE spare PVC pieces in the yard, LOL! [a reference to all of my other, failed projects & attempts at projects]

Almost embarrassed to show this, but it's my most recent idea....... [please don't laugh -- only I can laugh :ROFLMAO:]. When you said triangles, I literally thought triangles, ha! But of course, finding the appropriate fittings -- another matter. I like the truss idea -- the problems I've had in the past have had to do with support issues.

View attachment 74872

OK, I spent some time with google sketchup and came up with the following images. First, please note that I did not spend a lot of time trying to get the pipe to connect perfectly with the Ts and elbows - mostly what I was going for was a concept drawing.

pondnetframe01.jpg

pondnetframe02.jpg

pondnetframe03.jpg

pondnetframe04.jpg

pondnetframe05.jpg

pondnetframe06.jpg

pondnetframe07.jpg


(Does it remind you of a house's roofing structure?)

It is approx 10'x 15' and about 3' tall in the center. I intentionally left off 3 angles pieces on one side. This was to prevent too many items on the image making difficult to see individual pieces. Of course the 3 that I left off would mirror those on the other side and would be similar in placement to the 1 that I did draw in.

As for the height, you can make it whatever feels good to you. The steeper it is the more likely leaves will fall/blow off but, the down side is, additional weight. How much weight? I dunno. Would it be significant? I dunno. You would have to play that on your gut and what you like.

As with my net frame, this would require 2 people to move it. Four would probably be better. (remember that you can attach the net, as I did, in a way that makes it easy to flip the net back allowing direct access to the water without having to move the net frame.)

If you were to build this here are some notes based on my experience -
  • Dry fit everything
  • Measure, cut, and build as you go. You will probably find that measurements change slightly and if you cut everything early on somethings might not fit later.
  • Don't use PVC glue. Use super glue when all done. By doing it this way you will need to press really hard to get the pipes in the connectors all the way.
  • When you determine the height and run the angle pieces from top to lower sides, since the T connectors are not glued, you can twist them to match the angle needed. (Since you have pressed the pipes into the connectors all the way like I suggested above it will be very difficult to twist the T's by hand. Get a short piece of pipe, 2' long, stick it into the T some and use that as a lever. Makes a HUGE difference.)
  • Build it on a flat section of ground like a driveway
  • When placing 2 connectors close to each other it is possible to use a short piece of pipe, say 3", such that when together the 2 connectors will be touching each other (much like how the connectors in my drawing are placed). You can do this if you like but I suggest having a 1" gap between connectors so that you have a place to glue. If the connectors touch then you won't be able to get glue on the pipe/connection part and I doubt that glue holding the touching side of 2 connectors will be adequate.
  • After assembly and before gluing, if you try to pick it up more than likely it will flex a lot - A LOT. That is OK because, remember, nothing is glued. After setting it back down check all joints and press them together to make sure all is still in place.
  • To glue, get some super glue. Don't buy the cheep stuff. Get the kind that is runny and not the gel stuff. You want to squirt some in all the joints where the pipe goes in. Capillary action should cause the glue to get sucked into the joint. Give it 2 or 3 times what the directions say for drying time.
  • I placed glue on the top of the pipe and let it get sucked in to the joint and down the sides. After giving plenty of time for the glue to dry carefully flip it upside down, make sure all joints are still tight, and add some glue to the same connections as before but this time on the other side of the pipe.
Mmathis - What do you think? Does this help any? Sorry it took me so long to get this done. I tried to cover everything I could think of. If I missed something, or just plain screwed up an explanation, let me know and I'll try again.
 
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@randythawkins That is way cool -- thanks so much! I'll give it a better look and go over it with Hubby to see if it's something we can work with :)

You are very welcome. In my haste to get the drawing done there is something I forgot - for the 2 angled sections in the middle there should be a vertical post. I will try to get the drawing modified this evening and update here with those changes. Sorry about that.
 
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@Mmathis - OK, I made the change to the drawing...

pondnetframe08.jpg

pondnetframe09.jpg

pondnetframe10.jpg

pondnetframe11.jpg


I placed 1 support in the center of one of the middle sections. This will help provide even more support against the center drooping when placed over the pond. Of course one like it will need to be added to the other section.

Sorry about forgetting this in my earlier drawings.
 

Mmathis

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At my favorite store, HOME DEPOT -- PVC shopping :)

@randythawkins Question: are you using Super Glue instead of regular PVC cement to secure the pieces?

1/2" or 3/4" PVC? Or would it matter?
 
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At my favorite store, HOME DEPOT -- PVC shopping :)

@randythawkins Question: are you using Super Glue instead of regular PVC cement to secure the pieces?

1/2" or 3/4" PVC? Or would it matter?
Yes. Super glue. If you use regular PVC glue you have to quickly put the pieces together. I was afraid that having to do that so quickly, even with reference marks, I would not get something aligned and it would be messed up. You may be better with the PVC glue but I didn't want to risk it knowing my lack of proficiency.

Given the size I would use 3/4".
 

Mmathis

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Oooops, well I have way more 1/2" pipe, so I went with that. Guessing I can build it about 1/2 way [length-wise] and see how sturdy it is, then if it's not looking too good, I can go with 3/4". There's always a need for extra PVC pipe & fittings around here, for one project or another.
 
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Oooops, well I have way more 1/2" pipe, so I went with that. Guessing I can build it about 1/2 way [length-wise] and see how sturdy it is, then if it's not looking too good, I can go with 3/4". There's always a need for extra PVC pipe & fittings around here, for one project or another.


Half may do ok. Remember it is the geometry of the triangles. There will be some flex but it should be pretty much self-supportive so it will probably do ok. The primary reason I replied with 3/4" was not as much with it when it is in place but, rather, when it is being moved. Let me know how it goes.
 

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