Can I put the pump on a dimmer switch?

[poconojoe]

I still say the best way to regulate or reduce the flow through the skimmer would be with a ball valve. Split the output from the pump in two with a valve on each branch to fine tune the flow of each. The [new] second branch can just dump into the pond or can flow over another feature such as a waterfall.

This, to me, would be the easiest, most effective and most economical way to do it.

 

[brokensword]

I still say the best way to regulate or reduce the flow through the skimmer would be with a ball valve. Split the output from the pump in two with a valve on each branch to fine tune the flow of each. The [new] second branch can just dump into the pond or can flow over another feature such as a waterfall.

This, to me, would be the easiest, most effective and most economical way to do it.

totally totally support PJ's thought here; the pump is designed usually for best function at fully open outlets and dedicated wattage. Ball valves are cheap, easy, adjustable and won't crap out on you electrically. To add even more to this discussion; a pond pro advised to do this; at your pump outlet, put an adaptor that is twice the outlet size. Then a 'wye' to give you two feeds. Then you reduce back to the outlet size. This allows the pump to give you closer to spec efficiency and flow. And with two feeds (each should have a ball valve at the water feature point of inlet for easy adjustment) you have more options. You can trickle one and allow the other full bore, and do it at any time you choose for whatever reason.

Ball valves of 1-/2" were going for like $7 and 1-1/2" flex tubing at $2 per lineal foot (bought in 50' rolls). Adaptors and reducers also cheap, easy to use. This way the pump is even less restricted and even more controllable. If that control burns out, hefty replacement and no pump action during that time. If one ball valve fails to open/close, you still have the other, so no pump stress.

 

[poconojoe]

totally totally support PJ's thought here; the pump is designed usually for best function at fully open outlets and dedicated wattage. Ball valves are cheap, easy, adjustable and won't crap out on you electrically. To add even more to this discussion; a pond pro advised to do this; at your pump outlet, put an adaptor that is twice the outlet size. Then a 'wye' to give you two feeds. Then you reduce back to the outlet size. This allows the pump to give you closer to spec efficiency and flow. And with two feeds (each should have a ball valve at the water feature point of inlet for easy adjustment) you have more options. You can trickle one and allow the other full bore, and do it at any time you choose for whatever reason.

Ball valves of 1-/2" were going for like $7 and 1-1/2" flex tubing at $2 per lineal foot (bought in 50' rolls). Adaptors and reducers also cheap, easy to use. This way the pump is even less restricted and even more controllable. If that control burns out, hefty replacement and no pump action during that time. If one ball valve fails to open/close, you still have the other, so no pump stress.

All that and you can add unions for easy disconnects such as for maintenance or shutting down and removing vulnerable parts for winter freeze.

 

[brokensword]

All that and you can add unions for easy disconnects such as for maintenance or shutting down and removing vulnerable parts for winter freeze.

dayum yes, I forgot those; thanks PJ!!!