Building and 'scaping your pond is a continuous, fun adventure. 
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Building a Pond in Chicago Area - Advice Gladly Taken
- Thread starter DrellDrell
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I missed this.
I recommend fishless cycling, using straight ammonia from the grocery store.
Do not use sudsy ammonia, that is commonly sold.
Below in my signature is a calculator for calculating how much ammonia you need to add based on your pond volume and ammonia strength.. You won't lose any fish that way.
Add the ammonia, watch for nitrites to rise then start dropping.
Add more ammonia back up to the recommended 3 ppm.
Once your ammonia and nitrites are zero, 24 hours after adding ammonia, your pond is ready for fish, but do a large water change, 25% or more. The water change won't hurt the bacteria population.
The process should take a few weeks.
I do not recommend buying any bacteria in a bottle.
.
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It looks like the berms outside the pond and the inside build up of rocks is working well for heavy rains. At based on my really limited understanding of ponds.
Chicago got about 3" of rain in the last 16 hours or so. Coincidentally, I left an empty garbage can next to the pond; it measured 3" inside the garbage can this morning. The water levels rose in the pond about 3" as well. There was a bit of water on the outer permitter or around the berm during the heaviest of the rainfall, but the berm kept the water away as planned.
The low point of my pond is near the skimmer. The skimmer was functional, but water was about to flow over the skimmer. So while (IMO) the pond help up well, I think I need to create some type of planned escape path for the water - otherwise the water will simply go over the skimmer. I would prefer it to go the the left or right to the skimmer.
Considering that the occurrence of 3" of rain in less than 24 hours is rare in Chicago, I am not too concerned. One option I have is to lower the water level a bit when I know we will get a big rainstorm.
Here is another pic. Added a bench this morning.
Chicago got about 3" of rain in the last 16 hours or so. Coincidentally, I left an empty garbage can next to the pond; it measured 3" inside the garbage can this morning. The water levels rose in the pond about 3" as well. There was a bit of water on the outer permitter or around the berm during the heaviest of the rainfall, but the berm kept the water away as planned.
The low point of my pond is near the skimmer. The skimmer was functional, but water was about to flow over the skimmer. So while (IMO) the pond help up well, I think I need to create some type of planned escape path for the water - otherwise the water will simply go over the skimmer. I would prefer it to go the the left or right to the skimmer.
Considering that the occurrence of 3" of rain in less than 24 hours is rare in Chicago, I am not too concerned. One option I have is to lower the water level a bit when I know we will get a big rainstorm.
Here is another pic. Added a bench this morning.
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Very nice! And yes, you definitely want a "planned for" overflow. While I agree that we seldom get rains of that magnitude here in Chicagoland, when we do they tend to come in droves. While the pond overflowing isn't the worst thing in the world, knowing where you want the water to go is a plus.
What about a simple PVC overflow drain that leads to a dry well? Kind of a french drain type set up. You could conceal the PVC pipe opening in your rock edge and bury it in a downhill slope toward a hole that you fill with gravel. Or you could even install an actual vault - like a sump pump pit - that would hold a number of gallons of water and drain slowly through the bottom into the ground. Just an idea!
We have an overflow line that leads directly to our storm sewer drain - that's another possibility if you have access to the storm drain.
What about a simple PVC overflow drain that leads to a dry well? Kind of a french drain type set up. You could conceal the PVC pipe opening in your rock edge and bury it in a downhill slope toward a hole that you fill with gravel. Or you could even install an actual vault - like a sump pump pit - that would hold a number of gallons of water and drain slowly through the bottom into the ground. Just an idea!
We have an overflow line that leads directly to our storm sewer drain - that's another possibility if you have access to the storm drain.
Absolutely agree with you on bacteria in bottle. I have read about fishless cycling. Not sure it I will do it. Here is my somewhat educated rationale. I have had fresh and saltwater aquariums for roughly 20 years. I have not had one in the almost two years, however. This was a driver for the pond - to try something different. I typically cycled tanks (sized 10 gallons to 110 or so) with fish, but at a light load - light enough for the cycle to occur and certainly not heavy enough to intentionally harm fish. I had good luck with this after cycling two or three tanks. (Coincidentally, I used to take water or filter media from one tank to cycle another rather quickly. Too bad I could not do the same now!) I know ponds are different, but I think I will take the same approach.
Plus my wife thinks I am nuts for having a pond with no fish. So I may start with a 3 or 4 Comets and or Shubunkin that are 3 to 5" long.
To aid in creating biological filtration sooner than later, I have also added about 120 1" bioballs to my waterfall. I have them situated so that they are partially submerged to increase aeration over them. I will also add a few floating plants expecting that some will deteriorate quicker than normal, but may increase cycling time. Will use Anacharis for sure (loved them in fresh water tanks). Will also add Water Lettuce and Water Hyacinth. Will add Lillys a bit later.
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I'm about the same, first fw aquarium 40 years ago and sw 30 years ago. 1st pond 3 years ago.
There's no difference in the speed of the cycle using the fishless method, but when you use fish to cycle a pond or aquarium, even if they survive, you can never be sure that there was no damage to their gills that would compromise their quality of life going forward.
Even if they survive the ammonia spike, they will then have to endure the nitrite levels which will again degrade their health.
You can mitigate the damaging effects of nitrite poisoning with the addition of salt to the pond water, but then you need to deal with what to do with the pond water when you do a water change. Salted water onto your lawn is not good for the lawn.
Damage from ammonia poisoning cannot be reversed.
There's no difference in the speed of the cycle using the fishless method, but when you use fish to cycle a pond or aquarium, even if they survive, you can never be sure that there was no damage to their gills that would compromise their quality of life going forward.
Even if they survive the ammonia spike, they will then have to endure the nitrite levels which will again degrade their health.
You can mitigate the damaging effects of nitrite poisoning with the addition of salt to the pond water, but then you need to deal with what to do with the pond water when you do a water change. Salted water onto your lawn is not good for the lawn.
Damage from ammonia poisoning cannot be reversed.
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Been a bit busy lately. Here are current pics of the pond. I am nearly finished with the exception of some type of over the the skimmer. I am thinking I will create something our of cedar that is hinged for easy access. I also want to protect the skimmer for people stepping on it given it is so close to our concrete patio and the yard is relatively small.
I add three fish (2 comets and 1 shubunkin) that are 4-5" long on June 14th. The fish seem to be doing well - they even recognize us already and look for food. I feed them sparingly every other day. Also added some water lettuce and hyscinith and one marginal plant on June 14th
So far, so good except the water has turned fairly green in the last four to five days. We have had a ton a rain (about 6-7") since I added the fish. No runoff as the berms worked as planned. Initially, I thought the rain would be good. However, I know wonder if it added to the algae water creation. I do know this is a new pond so the algae is expected as part of the cycling process. The pond also gets quite a bit of sun during the day with its western exposure.
Two days ago, I add a 560 GPH water pump with a water feature that creates a dome to water effect. My goal was to add more aeration. About an hour ago I did a 20-25% water change. Tomorrow, I will get more water lettuce and hyscinith. My goal is to create plant-based shading over 50% of the pond. In the next week or two I will be looking to add a good "starter" water lilly. I figure it may be too much to add the water lilly now.
Any advice of tips are appreciated.
I add three fish (2 comets and 1 shubunkin) that are 4-5" long on June 14th. The fish seem to be doing well - they even recognize us already and look for food. I feed them sparingly every other day. Also added some water lettuce and hyscinith and one marginal plant on June 14th
So far, so good except the water has turned fairly green in the last four to five days. We have had a ton a rain (about 6-7") since I added the fish. No runoff as the berms worked as planned. Initially, I thought the rain would be good. However, I know wonder if it added to the algae water creation. I do know this is a new pond so the algae is expected as part of the cycling process. The pond also gets quite a bit of sun during the day with its western exposure.
Two days ago, I add a 560 GPH water pump with a water feature that creates a dome to water effect. My goal was to add more aeration. About an hour ago I did a 20-25% water change. Tomorrow, I will get more water lettuce and hyscinith. My goal is to create plant-based shading over 50% of the pond. In the next week or two I will be looking to add a good "starter" water lilly. I figure it may be too much to add the water lilly now.
Any advice of tips are appreciated.
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Real nice D, really nice.
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I would add the lily now, plant in litter, put osmocote or tabs on the bottom get the lily growing. It will do well.
Same advice here - you can't add plants fast enough to a new pond. Especially here in the Midwest - give them time to get established and enjoy them this season!
In litter such as cat litter? Should iuse a basic type without any deodorants, etc.? I presume I need to set the plant so that the base of the pot is at least 1-2' deep.
Thanks for the advice. I will get a lily afterwork today.
Yup. Plain kitty litter. No scent, not the clumping kind. But buy an already potted lily and you can more than likely leave it in that pot for at least this year. Just drop it in and enjoy it!
Check the variety to see how deep it wants to be. But yes generally 1-3 feet deep for lilies. Make sure you get a hardy variety and you can leave it in the pond all winter and it will come back next year bigger and better.
Check the variety to see how deep it wants to be. But yes generally 1-3 feet deep for lilies. Make sure you get a hardy variety and you can leave it in the pond all winter and it will come back next year bigger and better.
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tbendl
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Very nice.
I scored two lilys at 50% off. Sweet. They are in 4" pots and not very big right now. Should I prop up the base so that th leaves float? Or, will they simply grow upwards and to the surface soon if fully submerged.
As always, thanks for the help.
As always, thanks for the help.