Building a Formal Pond

[bicepeak]

Hello everyone,

I am putting in a new garden and would like to build an in-ground formal pond that will be in the center of the lawn. There is an inspiration picture and current picture of the yard showing the has been dug so far for the pond. It will have one center spray/fountain and flowering water plants but no fish. I have never had or built a pond before and would appreciate any suggestions and advice. Further below are some questions I have.

Thanks,

Adam

Based on the information I have found online, below are my current plans and some additional information including a list from The Pond Guy with the suggested items I will need.

Pond overall size: 10 feet wide x 20 feet long x 18 inches deep
Pond sides: Cinder block or poured concrete forms
Pond sides top: Capped with rectangular cut stone
Pond bottom: Dirt

The Pond Guy Parts List:
45 Mil EPDM Pond Liner 20 feet by 30 feet
Underlayment cloth
The Pond Guy Mag Flo 2160 GPH Pump with Fountain Ki
The Pond Guy Pond Aerator 2
The Pond Guy Defense Pac 2000 w/ InstaFix Algae Control

Additional information:
Flowering water plants and no fish
Soil type: soft loam soil, no sharp rocks
Location: Center of south facing lawn where there is currently no shade (Shade trees will be planted along one side about 12 feet away)
Northern Central California (1 hour north of Sacramento)
USDA Hardiness Zone 9b
Hot & dry summers (often 100+ degrees) and mild winters

Is the depth adequate for a pond with water plants (no fish)? I’m not sure if it is deeper than 18” whether it would require a pool fence around the area.

Is having a pump and aerator as recommended by The Pond Guy a good thing to have?

Any suggestions on the construction process or maintenance that I should be aware of?

View attachment 166456
View attachment 166457

I hope you will post again and show us how it all turned out.

 

[bicepeak]

Made some adjustments to the pond design.

 

[GBBUDD]

Sorry , I know nothing about keeping a small feature. If I think about it without adding chlorine or salt it seems like a algae maker. Are you going natural or chemical

 

[bicepeak]

Sorry , I know nothing about keeping a small feature. If I think about it without adding chlorine or salt it seems like an algae maker. Are you going natural or chemical

I don’t see how it would be an algae maker any more than any other pond.
I have oxygenating plants and I will have plenty of coverage in the Spring. Completely vertical sides to the bottom and good depth. I will not be surprised at some green water early in Spring but as in all my other ponds it will balance itself.
Actually, I wasn’t asking for advice, just sharing my project with anyone interested.
No worries.

 

[EvelynO]

Hello everyone,

I am putting in a new garden and would like to build an in-ground formal pond that will be in the center of the lawn. There is an inspiration picture and current picture of the yard showing the has been dug so far for the pond. It will have one center spray/fountain and flowering water plants but no fish. I have never had or built a pond before and would appreciate any suggestions and advice. Further below are some questions I have.

Thanks,

Adam

Based on the information I have found online, below are my current plans and some additional information including a list from The Pond Guy with the suggested items I will need.

Pond overall size: 10 feet wide x 20 feet long x 18 inches deep
Pond sides: Cinder block or poured concrete forms
Pond sides top: Capped with rectangular cut stone
Pond bottom: Dirt

The Pond Guy Parts List:
45 Mil EPDM Pond Liner 20 feet by 30 feet
Underlayment cloth
The Pond Guy Mag Flo 2160 GPH Pump with Fountain Ki
The Pond Guy Pond Aerator 2
The Pond Guy Defense Pac 2000 w/ InstaFix Algae Control

Additional information:
Flowering water plants and no fish
Soil type: soft loam soil, no sharp rocks
Location: Center of south facing lawn where there is currently no shade (Shade trees will be planted along one side about 12 feet away)
Northern Central California (1 hour north of Sacramento)
USDA Hardiness Zone 9b
Hot & dry summers (often 100+ degrees) and mild winters

Is the depth adequate for a pond with water plants (no fish)? I’m not sure if it is deeper than 18” whether it would require a pool fence around the area.

Is having a pump and aerator as recommended by The Pond Guy a good thing to have?

Any suggestions on the construction process or maintenance that I should be aware of?

View attachment 166456
View attachment 166457

Definitely would not have a pond without some kind of fish as they keep mosquitos and other bugs under control. I live in southern NM and had found that my 48" deep pond got very warm and algae grew out of control. Was a constant battle even with algaecide. Finally got a UV filter and had to cover it with artificial netting and shade cloth despite having 2 40' tall trees 10 and 12 ft on either side. Also the tree leaves were a very big maintenance issue.
Now with the cover and uv filter it is virtually maintenance free with exception of weekly to bimonthly cleaning of filters from dead algae produced by uv filter. A 30min job for 2 filters. Water crystal clear. Accommodating 4 koi. 6 comet goldfish, 2 shebunkins and a myriad of minnows.

 

[bicepeak]

When I first put a pond in. I loved the natural look of plants surrounding the pond growing right up to the water. I changed my mind when it seemed to get too much debris. Too much debris equals an increase in algae. Also I never have trees close by to reduce leaf drop. The very best remedy in my hot Phoenix climate is to have plenty of lilies to shade the water.
If I do have an issue with algae this year, I will have to check out the uv filter idea.

 

[GBBUDD]

i not only have plants but i have one tree stump that is almost peat moss. a limb and at least three other tree stumps and logs, all sitting in the water.

 

[Lisak1]

When I first put a pond in. I loved the natural look of plants surrounding the pond growing right up to the water. I changed my mind when it seemed to get too much debris. Too much debris equals an increase in algae. Also I never have trees close by to reduce leaf drop. The very best remedy in my hot Phoenix climate is to have plenty of lilies to shade the water.
If I do have an issue with algae this year, I will have to check out the uv filter idea.

UV filter only works on single celled floating algae. And "works" is even questionable. The effect of shade on algae is also questionable - sunlight doesn't cause algae growth in a well balanced pond. My pond is in full sun 10 hours a day and full of plants - no algae overgrowth.

 

[bicepeak]

UV filter only works on single celled floating algae. And "works" is even questionable. The effect of shade on algae is also questionable - sunlight doesn't cause algae growth in a well balanced pond. My pond is in full sun 10 hours a day and full of plants - no algae overgrowth.

I think the key here is “full of plants”.

 

[GBBUDD]

no the key is not over stocking the pond with fish and not over feeding. i have seen many a video with people using a frisbee worth of food being thrown in. thats fine when the food you are using is not that great to star with .use a high proteins food and you'll see the difference with algae growth

 

[Lisak1]

I think the key here is “full of plants”.

Nope. The key is balance. Keeping the fish load low, but enough to keep the plant growth vigorous, the organic matter cleaned out, and feed very little if at all.

 

[bicepeak]

Nope. The key is balance. Keeping the fish load low, but enough to keep the plant growth vigorous, the organic matter cleaned out, and feed very little if at all.

Yep...it is about balance. My pond achieves it' s best balance when the lilies have come back fully from dormancy and covering my pond with pads almost completely.
I never feed my fish and seldom fertilize my plants.....mainly only when repotting.
I also have full sun on my pond in the summer and no nearby trees.

Off topic.... but my biggest problem is having tropicals survive the winter because of my small yard and having to place my pond close to the north side of my house, so a very long period of no sun throughout winter.

 

[bicepeak]

i not only have plants but i have one tree stump that is almost peat moss. a limb and at least three other tree stumps and logs, all sitting in the water.

In a very large pond. That helps.

 

[hammer]

nitrogen and phosphorus are the problem... water temperature is a huge multiplier. our wetland scientists and biologists tend to focus on water temperature in natural streams and rivers. to control nitrogen and phosphorus (from run-off) there are wetland areas that consume the nutrients and filter the water. In these micro watersheds, that's the "bog filter". If nutrients aren't being added, they don't need to be removed either but phosphorus and water pH are important. In a small water feature it's probably just easier to replace the water. I lose enough water in a week and get new water from rain or my town water that my water isn't in there long enough to be a problem...... so far.

 

[GBBUDD]

90% OF YOUR MUNICIPLE WATER SOURCES add phosphorous to their water, it is used to keep pipes from corroding.