Bog building, also called upflow filter, eco filter, wetland filter

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hm this sounds like semantics but please correct me if I’m missing some pond lingo I need to be aware of for discussions here. Aquascape didn’t invent the term snorkel and even so, isn’t it still cleaning access? Why would the term be different based on the diameter of the cleaning tube?
I just didn't want anyone to be confused.

By mentioning a snorkel, it would give the impression that you have the snorkel and centipede type bog.

There is quite a difference between a snorkel and a clean-out stack. And yes, the pipe diameter does, in part distinguish that, in my opinion.

A snorkel setup has a void below it. The idea is that the snorkel diameter is large enough for you to occasionally drop a pump down there. It us used as maintenance procedure to suck up any debris that may have collected down there.

The clean-out stack is different. It's a means of flushing out the manifold pipes. You open the stack and your existing bog pump pushes out any debris that may be collected inside those manifold pipes.
 
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Oh, and I look at the orientation of the manifold slits differently.

Some feel they should be facing down to avoid clogging.
I feel they should be facing up. My thought is that if any muck does collect down there, the slits would get buried if they are facing down.

I feel there's little chance the gravel will block the slits if they are facing up. Holes might get blocked, but I feel slits won't since they are much longer than a hole.

It's all just my thought. Take all the different opinions and decide for yourself.
 

Mmathis

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@poconojoe You are so correct that there are different ways of thinking, and it’s not always a matter of what is right or wrong, but what works best for one over another. My philosophy is, as you say, “take all the different opinions and decide for yourself.” But for me, things tend to turn out that if it can go wrong, it will, LOL, so I decided to take that variable of dumb luck out of the picture.;)
 
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Thank you for this advice. I had someone do this for me and he said he knew better when I told him to do slits. The end cap is threaded but it’s almost impossible to get tight enough because the snorkel doesn’t stick far enough out of the gravel to get enough grip. Lots of things learned from this build.
We all learn from our own builds and successes and the do overs. It's the who point of these forums to learn and help. And ok to live through others as a small fix to stop me from adding on to the pond yet again
 
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Show pics of the pvc before you bury it we may have some advice before t here's a ton of stone on it
 
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@poconojoe You are so correct that there are different ways of thinking, and it’s not always a matter of what is right or wrong, but what works best for one over another. My philosophy is, as you say, “take all the different opinions and decide for yourself.” But for me, things tend to turn out that if it can go wrong, it will, LOL, so I decided to take that variable of dumb luck out of the picture.;)
I can see the point of facing the slits down. I'm guessing the thought is that with the constant pressure of the water, the slits will be kept clear.
I just look at it differently.

It's funny how there are so many variations in constructing a bog (depth, type of stones/gravel, slits or holes, facing up or down, etc.) and most of the time they all work fine. There seems to be a lot of "give" in the so-called "rules".
 

addy1

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Mine are facing down, but the slits are more than 1/2 way though the pipes. So facing down and sideways. It would take a lot of muck to cover them up. There is also a extra piece of liner under the pipes for the pounding water and a bit of gravel.
 
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I built a bog filter in May using some of the guidance here and from other forums but I’m having some blockage issues. The filter has really saved my pond this Summer but now appears to be clogged up to the point that the water just wants to burst up and out through by snorkel, even though it’s capped (I have to weight it down with bricks).

I think the main reason is that the PVC pipe is not big enough (I wouldn’t use a 1.5 or 2 inch again) and there aren’t enough or big enough holes, I used holes and no slits, and all holes are on the side or the top (none facing downwards). Because of the complex way my pipes are connected, it’s pretty much impossible to get a snake or anything else down in there to clean it, so I’ve blasted it with a hose, which helped a little but ultimately I’m going to have to deconstruct it, make some mods, and then put it all back together.

I’m posting this so others maybe don’t make the same mistakes but would happily take other advice. Note, I used a much larger than pea-gravel to sit on top of the pipe but that still hasn’t helped. When I rebuild I will probably use a layer of Scottish pebbles and may even add a plastic mesh layer for extra protection.

View attachment 153573
View attachment 153574
For educational purposes please take pictures and post an update when you dig it up so we can see what it looks like under there. Very curious! Might be a combination of roots and organic matter.
 
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Hi everyone, I have also constructed my own bog filter(3 wk old) for a 100 gallons outdoor tank. However, I dont feel like its doing what's expected from it. I'm still doing water changes everytime as brown algaes are blooming and once water is losing its clarity (which is supposed to be not). I have 9 goldfish and tank is partially shaded. inside the bog filter are medium sized lava rock and pumice in bottom layer(2 in deep), 15mm rounded river stones in 2nd layer (4 in deep) and pea gravel in last layer (5in deep). pump is inside the tank pumping the water into the bottom of the bog filter and water comes back to the tank from above like a waterfalls. Bog plant used are lucky bamboo and photos plant. I noticed all water parameters are ok except that the ph level is a bit high (8.2-8.4 ph, goldfish thrives at 7.4-7.6). Water also starts smelling a bit fishy. I am thinking if I did something wrong. I dont want to always do water change that's why I chose this type of filter. I am hoping anyone can help me figure out what's wrong. Thanks a lot in advance.
 

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You seem to have done some home work. The bog has what appears to be a good design. Though if its 20 % of a 100 gallons that is a very small bog.

You seem to have missed that part that bogs , are a need to grow, They are live filters. Mother nature needs to establish bacteria microbes and all the bugs ,worms ,spiders and all the other little guys to get established for the BOG to become a bog. That's why they work as well as they do they are not just a man made filter material to strain out particles.

This does not happen in a week or three. This takes a year or so or more depending where you are.
Most of these needed armies come to the pond by means of hitch hiking a ride from insects, birds, frogs or mamels etc
It takes some time. The brown algae could be telling you your over feeding as once a pond does get established the bio film is all they need for food. They will graze on the rocks or what ever is in the pond. They do not require feedings like aquarium fish do and your 100 gallon pond is more of an aquarium then it is a pond.
Lastly the smaller amount of water the far more difficult it is to get any body of water to become cycled and not have major parameter changes and a 100 gallon or even a 1000 gallon pond can heat up very quickly in the mid day sun or even a good rain where it can spike the ph very quickly.
Stability is key to an outdoor pond.
Good luck
 
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Jhn

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Agree with @GBBUDD give it time. Will add, plants that are aggressive spreaders, but easy to weed out are the ones that will keep the water quality up the best as these tie up the nutrients. Try water cress, creeping Jenny, water celery, forgetmenots all spread like wildfire for me. Also, your ph is fine, don’t chase numbers, you are looking for stability. If anything check your kh levels as this is what will keep your ph stable.
 

addy1

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Welcome to the forum! @chardbiz

Agree with above, you need plants and some time for it to work well.
 
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I had built two ponds in IL, dug them myself, and all rocks were moved by hand. Both had bogs like you have.
When we moved to OH in 2020, we had a pond professionally built, along with over 20 tons of rock/boulders. One thing I learned was in their bog they first laid open crates. Of course their Aquascape crates were far more expensive than milk crates at Home Depot, they all do the same thing (as long as generic crates are heavy duty enough).
I’ll try to find the photos of the process. I can’t remember if they laid a mesh in top of the crates before placing the rocks, or if they used bigger rock on the crates, smaller rocks on top. But I’ll likely never need to clean the bog. There is a large 12” pipe on the near end in the pictures. I can push a shop vac hose down there to suck out any muck that may accumulate. No PVC pipes to get clogged.
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First they dug out the trench for the crates and pipe. I was wrong, there IS a pipe with holes under the crates.
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Then they fry gotten the crates and clean out pipe, black pipe on left.
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Next the underlayment and then liner we’re placed in the bog.
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The inlet pipe is placed.
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Close up of the crates and I let pipe.
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Rocks went right on top of the crates.
BTW, the ending result bog is 8x8’, even though the crates are only about 2x7’.
C6291733-3E47-4D56-B487-388A74B80888.jpeg

Finished bog. My elephant ear grows over 6’ tall with 50-42” long leaves. Cannas have been pulled in previous years, and roots have stretched over 8’! Pretty sure all plants love it.
 
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@CountryEscape Your pond is beautiful and I'm sure you're enjoying relaxing by it :) Our 4 adult koi went to their new home this morning, an adjustment but they really needed a bigger pond.
So sorry we weren’t able to take them. Our pond is pretty much maxed out, probably will need to remove a few next time I have to drain the pond. But for now they are all good. I’m fine if they don’t grow to be 2-3’ long! I just love seeing all of the pretty colors.
 

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